IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


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Photographic 

Sdences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIM  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  MS80 

(716)872-4503 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  technique-  et  biblioyraphiques 


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L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
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de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
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sont  indiquds  ci-dessous. 


n 
n 

n 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 

Covers  damaged/ 
Couverture  endommagee 

Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurde  et/ou  peilicul^e 

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Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reli^  avec  d'autres  documents 


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Pages  de  couleur 


D 

D 
D 

n 

D 
D 
D 


Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endomrr<ag6es 

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Pages  restaurdes  et/ou  pellicul^es 

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0 


D 


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La  reliure  serree  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
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mais,  lorsque  cela  dtait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6t6  filmdes. 


D 
D 


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six.,  ont  6t6  film6es  d  nouveau  de  facon  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


D 


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10X  14X  18X  22X 


26X 


30X 


/ 


12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


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g6n6rosit6  de: 

IVIetropolitan  Toronto  Library 
Canadian  History  Department 

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conformitd  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
fiimage. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
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sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  —^(meaning  "CON- 
TINUED ").  or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 

Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  art  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprim6e  sont  film6s  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  film6s  en  commengant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  >  illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  — ►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE  ".  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN". 

Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
film6s  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diffdrents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reprcduit  en  un  seul  clich6,  il  est  filmd  d  partir 
de  I'angle  sup6rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  ndcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mdthode. 


1  2  3 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

«-> 


'    -V     Cl-y-tA^^. 


THE 


^JZ 


a 


PhAT    DOY'S 


5? 


16  Years  on  the  St.  Lawrence. 


THK   HEORLK    rvlEX  AN13   XHK 
THINQS    sSKKN. 


'      P  ^  Qii'ide  *  for  *  Joarists  *  a[)d   .  J^'^welers. 


EIGHTH    EDITION.         COPYRIGHTED,    1889. 


E.  F.  BAB&A.GE,  Publisher. 


ROCHESTER,  N.  Y.: 

IJKMOCRAT   AND    CUKOMCI.E    PRINT,    47    &•    49    EAST    MAIN    STREET. 

1889. 


y^^7 


O 


INTRODUCTION. 


i 


TN  presenting  this  work,  "The  Phat  Boy's  Sixteen 
i  Years  on  the  St.  Lawrence  River,"  I  am  aware 
that  financial  or  personal  ends  are  always  the  para- 
mount object  to  be  attained  by  an  individual  who  puts 
forth  anything  in  this  world.  I  therefore  plead  guilty 
to  the  above  charge,  and  for  so  doing  purpose  to 
give  to  the  tourist  or  traveler  down  this  grandest 
of  trips,  a  faithful  description  of  every  point  of 
interest  that  meets  the  eye  of  the  beholder. 

"  The  People  I  Have  Met  and  the  Things  I  Have 
Seen,"  is  the  outgrowth  of  the  eight  editions  that 
have  been  issued  by  me  and  cheerfully  received  by 
the  public.  It  is  the  only  correct  guide  for  the 
tourist  or  traveler  down  this  majestic  stream,  as  it  is 
compiled  from  the  thousand  and  one  questions 
answered,  that  were  asked  me  by  parties  who  passed 
down  the  trip  during  my  ten  years  of  service  as 
"  Guide  to  the  St.  Lawrence."  It  is  my  honesty  and 
good  faith  to  state  what  prompted  this  issue. 

I  feel  capable  of  compiling  a  book  which,  although 
it  does  not  contain  any  pictorial  illustrations  of 
the  scenic  beauty  connected  with  the  trip,  I  am 
confident  that  a  plain,  unvarnished  description  of  all 


the  various  points  of  interest  would  be  sufficient. 
The  tourist  can  thus  feast  the  eye  on  a  thousand 
pictures  that  a  vohime  ten  times  this  size  couhi  not 
contain,  for  no  matter  how  often  you  open  the  eyes 
during  the  day,  they  will  fall  upon  some  delightful 
scene,  wliere  the  God  of  Nature  has  smiled  upon  her, 
within  an  hour.  Neither  have  I  given  a  highly 
colored  description  of  the  Rapids;  they  have  been 
viewed  and  described  by  thousands,  and  the  effect 
produced  is  as  varied  in  character  as  the  individual 
writers  differed  in  temperament  and  looks. 

Trustino-  this  volume  may  meet  with  as  cheerful  a 
greeting  by  the  public  as  it  has  always  accorded  my 
efforts  to  please,  and  if  its  perusal  causes  the  weary  or 
lonesome  traveler  one  hour  of  mirth  or  pleasure.  Its 
mission  will  have  been  accomplished. 
Respectfully  yours, 

E.  F.  BABBAGE,  "  Phat  Boy," 

Guide  to  the  St.  Lawrence. 


1 1 


I 


sufficient, 
tliousand 
could  not 
I  the  eyes 
delightful 
upon  her, 
a  highly 
lave  been 
the  effect 
ndividual 

cheerful  a 
;orded  my 
3  weary  or 
easure,  its 


T  Boy," 
Lawrence. 


rilB  "PlIAT  HOYS"  [6  YEARS 


ON 


THE  ST.   LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


THE  St.  Lawrence  River,  with  its  Thousand  Islands 
and  Rapids,  is  day  by  day  attracting  more  and 
more  attention  among  tourists.  There  is  so  much 
that  is  grand,  weird,  sublime  and  exhilarating  in  the 
scenery  and  balmy  atmosphere  of  the  majestic  river, 
as  it  passes  in  its  onward  flow  from  the  lake  to  the 
gulf,  that  we  need  not  for  a  moment  wonder  why  it 
is  that  there  is  a  great  annual  increase  in  the  number 
of  those  intelligent  people,  who,  from  East,  West 
and  Sojth,  repair  to  its  placid  waters  in  summer  to 
recuperate  their  wasted  energies  and  enjoy  that 
luxuriating  season  known  to  every  American  as 
"  vacation." 

A  vacation  on  the  St.  Lawrence  means  a  sojourn  at 
some  pretentious  or  lowly  cottage,  or  at  some  hotel 
ot  either  class  for  a  few  days,  or  for  one,  two  or  more 
weeks,  as  the  time,  finances  and  inclinations  of  the 
individual  may  dictate;  or  it  may,  as  in  hundreds  of 
instances  it  does,  only  include  a  voyage  of  rapid 
transit  from  New  Ycrk  to  Utica,  Clayton,  Niagara 
Falls,  Lewiston,  Toronto  or  Kingston  to  Alexander 
Bay  or  Montreal,  then  return  home.  There  are 
several  different  popular  starting  places  to  reach  the 
river;  it  is  presumed  you  will  take  the  most  conven- 
ient one,  and  we  will  consider  ourselves  pleased  with 
the  selection. 


I       ' 


I 


I  ? 


HERE  IS  WHERE  YOU  BEGIN, 

dear  reader,  to  peruse  an  effort  of  mine  which  has 
taken  up  my  leisure  moments  for  the  past  eight 
months;  it  is  not  a  pliysical  effort,  or  it  would  have 
been  larger,  but  being  a  literary  one  is  a  good  reason 
why  it  can  be  held  within  such  a  small  space  as  two 
hundred  pages.  A  physical  effort  anyv/here  near  my 
size  you  would  have  very  little  use  for.  While  trav- 
eling, where  could  you  store  it  away?  No  sardine 
box  would  hold  it.  You  could  not  put  it  into  a  satchel 
or  trunk  nor  tuck  it  away  in  any  little  convenient 
place.  But  this  little  volume  can  be  carried  most 
anywhere.  I  have  tried  to  make  it  of  such  a  desirable 
size  that  it  can  rest  secure  in  the  coat  pocket,  shawl- 
strap  or  in  the  hand.  It  is  a  dose  for  an  adult,  not  to 
be  shaken  before  taken,  as  you  are  expected  to  shake 
until  your  sides  ache  before  you  get  through  it ;  do 
not  be  in  a  hurry  ;  take  it  easy,  it  is  more  pleasant 
that  way.  Do  not  feel  offended  if  your  name  is  not 
mentioned  among  "The  People  I  Have  Met."  Think 
what  a  large  head  it  would  take  to  contain  all  I  have 
passed  through  ;  but  console  yourself  that  you  may 
be  among  "  The  Things  I  Have  Seen." 

It  is  a  pleasure  as  well  as  a  duty  to  state  that  I 
am  indebted  to  Mr.  George  C.  Hawley,  Stenograplier, 
of  Rochester,  New  York,  who  so  ably  assisted  me  in 
taking  my  dictation  for  this  work. 

*' DON'T  DO  IT." 

This  startling  head-line,  when  it  strikes  the  eye, 
denotes  that  there  is  something  to  be  said  of  personal 
benefit  to  the  reader  of  the  article,  and  we  hope  to 


7 


hich  has 
,st  eight 
lid  have 
»d  reason 
e  as  two 

near  my 
hile  trav- 
3  sardine 
)  a  satchel 
)nvenient 
ried   most 

desirable 
et,  shawl- 
Lilt,  not  to 
i  to  shake 
ugh  it ;  do 
e  pleasant 
ame  is  not 
t."    Think 

all  1  have 
;  you  may 

ate   that  I 

lographer, 

ted  me  in 


2S  the  eye, 
of  personal 
we  hope  to 


make  it  pleasant  as  well  as  profitable  to  those  who 
take  the  time  to  peruse  it.  To  begin  with,  we  desire 
to  say,  don't  get  fat  ;  do  not  allow  yourself  to 
develop  bey(jnd  the  line  which  is  laid  down  for  the 
average  man  or  woman  ;  because,  if  you  do,  the 
average  chair  will  not  fit,  the  average  seat  in  a  rail- 
road coach  will  be  too  small  ;  you  will  be  obliged  to 
shrink  into  it,  and  then  take  up  the  seat  of  another 
after  you  get  in.  The  same  trouble  will  occur  at 
amusements,  which  you  enjcjy  very  much,  but  it  so 
distorts  you  to  occupy  the  chair  that  the  pleasure  is 
lost  ;  the  average  docjr  to  a  hack  is  too  small,  and  so 
is  the  omnibus,  and  you  are  obliged  to  walk.  Here 
you  will  enjoy  it,  especially  if  it  is  a  little  slippery, 
dropping  now  and  then  three  hundred  and  thirty 
pounds,  because  your  friend  thinks  it  does  not  hurt  a 
fat  man  to  fall.  You  will  get  no  sympathy  from  any 
one,  this  I  guarantee,  because  I  have  tried  it.  By 
way  of  illustration,  if  I  had  not  eaten  anything  for 
three  days  but  a  yard  of  pump  water,  and  was  to  come 
to  a  friend  and  say  I  was  hungry,  and  had  not  had 
anything  to  eat  for  three  days,  he  would  look  me  all 
over,  and  in  reply  would  say:  "  Well,  I  guess  you 
can  stand  it  until  next  fall."  So  the  fleshier  you  are, 
the  less  sympathy  you  get.  And  "  If  Dr.  Tanner  stood 
it  for  forty  days,  you  have  sufficient  fat  to  last  you 
six  months,  to  say  the  least."  Second,  you  become,  as 
it  were,  a  curiosity,  and  all  look  at  you  with  amaze- 
ment and  wonder  what  circus  or  side  show  you 
escaped  from,  or  to  what  dime  museum  you  belong 
Third  there  isn't  anything  made  for  the  average  man 
that  will  fit  you,  therefore  everything  must  be  made  to 
order  that  you  wear,  except  a  necktie,   pair  of  socks 


^ 


li 


or  lianclkercliicf.  Tlie  hitter  must  be  seven-eii^hths  ol 
a  yard  wide  in  order  to  liold  the  perspiration  it  will 
tnop  up  in  once  ])assini;  over  your  manly  brow. 
Fourth,  when  at  the  aoe  of  21,  and  weigliinj^  225 
pounds,  I  had  no  trouble  in  making  a  selection  of  a 
[)artner  for  life.  She  climbed  thegolden  stairs  about 
e'ght  years  ago,  and  now  I  am  fair,  fat,  funny  and 
forty  ;  would  pass  in  a  crowd  for  tliirty-nine,  if  my 
daughter  was  not  around.  If  I  find  one  now  who 
loves  a  fat  man — I  am  a  little  loo  tat — therefore,  this 
world  is  very  chilly  for  me. 

After  you  have  become  a  little  above  the  average 
size,  as  I  have  in  development,  and  are  conspicuous, 
everybody  will  know  you  ;  if  they  do  not,  it  will  be 
easy  for  them  to  find  out  ;  all  they  are  obliged  to  do 
is  to  ask  anyone.  You  will  not  know  only  those  of 
your  relations  and  friends  very  near  to  you.  Then 
this  world  will  be  very  lonesome  and  cold,  or  your 
experience  will  be  different  from  mine.  No  one 
will  ever  ask  you  to  '"get  in  and  take  a  ride,"  no 
natter  what  the  circumstances  maybe — as  they  think 
of  forty  accidents  that  might  occur,  and  you  are  too 
large  a  body  for  the  average  springs  or  seat  in  any 
vehicle.  It  would  be  a  treat  (were  you  not  sensitive) 
if  you  could  walk  one  block  and  hear  the  expressions 
that  come  from  the  vulgar  throng  as  they  pass.  One 
female,  v/ith  eyes  like  two  saucers,  e.xclaimed:  "Glory 
be  to  the  father,  Mary  Ann,  phwat's  that?"  And 
another  says,  "  Gott  in  himmel,  what  a  fat  man,"  or  a 
lady  of  color  declare,  "Umph  !  Umph  !  I  Dat  am  de 
fattest  man  I  ebber  seed." 


eighths  ol 
ion  it  will 
ily  brow. 
[Thing  225 
jction  of  'd 
airs  about 
funny  and 
ine,  if  my 
now  who 
•efore,  tliis 

lie  average 
nspicuous, 
,  it  will  be 
liged  to  do 
ly  those  of 
ou.  Then 
>ld,  or  your 
.  No  one 
;i  ride,"  no 

they  think 
you  are  too 
jeat  in  any 
)t  sensitive) 
expressions 
pass.  One 
led:  "Glory 
lat?"     And 

man,"  or  a 
!  Dat  am  de 


SIR  WALTER  PELHAM,  ENGLAND'S 
GREATEST  HUMORIST, 

paid  the  Tliousand  Islands  a  visit  last  summer  and 
gave  his  unicpie  entertainments  in  ditTerent  places. 
While  in  a  conversation  with  him  ou  the  dock  one 
day  a  steamboat  arrived  with  about  two  hundred  pas- 
sengers on  board  and  remained  about  fifteen  minutes, 
during  which  time  Mr.  Pelham  stood  by  my  side 
takins:  in  the  situation.  After  the  boat  had  left  he 
remarked  that  it  was  a  fortunate  tiling  to  me  that  I 
was  not  sensitive  in  regard  to  my  personal  appearance, 
etc.  "  For,"  said  he,  "  of  these  two  hundred  passen- 
gers I  do  not  believe  one  of  them  missed  seeing  you 
and  scanning  your  manly  form  from  head  to  foot.  I 
would  suggest  that  when  you  die  you  be  placed  in  a  me- 
morial window  for  future  generations  to  gaze  i'f)on." 
Wlien  he  had  finished  these  complimentary  remarks 
I  presented  him  a  copy  of  my  book.  The  next  day 
a  poem  was  handed  me  together  with  Mr.  Pelham's 
compliments  and  I  am  sorry  to  say  that  it  has  been 
lost,  strayed  or  stolen,  and  consequently  I  am  unable 
to  produce  it  in  full,  and  ran  only  give  what  little  I 
remember. 


From  Florence  to  F.  F.  Ba/>dap-e. 

In  your  "  People  I  have  met  and  the  Things  that  I  have  seen," 
I  nou^e  you  your  widowerhood  deplore  ; 
Now,  I  am  a  slender  maid, 
Not  of  adipose  afraid, 
Who  could  love  you  if  you  scaled  a  hundred  more. 


i  ! 


i    f 


TO 


If  you  were  twice  your  size,  my  sij^hs  the  same  I'd  breathe, 
Fat  ne'er  puts  out  a  (lame  that's  lit  by  love  ; 
Then  come  along  with  me, 
And  let  us  married  be. 
And  be  my  little,  popsie  wopsie  dove. 

For  when  we  two  are  one,  the  better  half  then  I, 
Your  adipose  of  course  will  half  be  mine, 

Therefore  at  once  .agree, 

Oh  I  think  how  sad  'twill  be, 
Thy  Fatima  for  you  to  longer  pine. 

Oh,  guide  of  sweet  St.  Lawrence,  devote  your  fat  to  Florence, 
And  leave  the  wandering  river's  llov/ing  tide  ; 
The  beauty  of  the  waters 
Compare  not  with  Eve  s  daughters, 
So  make  me  just  the  happiest  of  brides. 

Then  board  the  nuptial  craft,  or  matrimonial  raft, 
Your  oil  will  sure  subdue  life's  stormy  waves  ; 

And  live  with  me  in  peace, 

And  have  our  joys  in  grease, 
Till  called  to  lard  our  vaults  or  common  graves. 

*'  Till  death  do  us  part,  as  it  were,  etc 


JAMES  B.  COLGATE. 

The  "  Old  Bullion,"  as  he  is  termed  on  Wall  Street, 
New  York,  with  his  family  and  some  friends,  made  a 
trip  from  New  York  and  Niagara  Falls  down  the 
St  Lawrence  River,  spending  a  couple  of  days  at 
Niagara,  crossing  the  lake,  remaining  one  day  at 
Toronto,  embarked  in  a  steamer  of  the  Richelieu 
Ontario  Navigation  Company  at  2  o'clock  p.  m.  for 
Montreal,  arriving  at  Kingston  early  the  next  morn- 
ing. I  was  added  to  the  passengers'  list,  and  in  my 
capacity  as  guide  to  the  river,  commenced,  as  vsoon  as 


1 1 


realhe, 


^all  Street, 
ds,  made  a 

down  the 
of  days  at 
>ne   day  at 

Richelieu 
:k  p.  M.  for 
ext  morn- 
and  in  my 
as  soon  as 


we  left  {)ort,  to  make  the  trip  pleasant  to  every  one 
by  giving  the  points  of  interest  as  we  passed.  After 
taking  from  my  pocket  my  tobacco  box,  I  partook  of 
some  of  its  contents  and  was  just  placing  it  back 
again  when  a  very  fine-looking  white-haired  gentle- 
man approached  me  and  said:  ''Sir,  do  you  use 
tobacco?"  I  said,  "  Yes,  sir,  I  do."  He  said,  "  Will 
you  have  the  kindness  to  give  m^  a  chew?"  I  said, 
*'  Ves,  sir,  with  pleasure,  it  is  always  pleasant  for  m.e 
to  give  any  man  a  chew  of  tobacco."  Presenting 
him  with  the  box  he  proceeded  to  take  a  quantity 
sufficient  for  himself  and  resumed  his  seat.  In  about 
a  minute  he  returned  and  said,  "  Myself  and  friend 
left  home  each  provided  with  what  we  thought  was 
tobacco  enough  for  the  trip,  but  the  amount  ran  out 
at  Niagara  Falls,  and  we  were  unable  to  procure  any 
there  such  as  we  were  used  to  chewing,  plain  tobacco, 
and  we  have  been  without  a  chew  of  tobacco  since 
we  left  Niagara,  unable  to  obtain  any  at  Toronto. 
This  being  plain,  can  we  procure  some  of  you  i'"  I 
said,  "  Yes,  you  are  welcome  to  any  amount  you  like. 
I  have  a  pound  of  W.  S.  Kimball's  plain  chewing 
tobacco,  manufactured  at  Rochester,  New  York,  a 
brand  which  I  have  been  using  for  the  past  sixteen 
years.  When  he  first  commenced  to  manufacture  it 
he  cut  one  pail  per  day,  and  now  cuts  five  hundred." 
I  gave  him  a  box  full,  and  I  never  saw  depicted  on 
any  mortal's  face  greater  resignation,  pleasure,  joy 
and  satisfaction  than  on  his,  for  when  a  man  wants  a 
chew  of  tobacco  who  has  been  witho'it  it  for  twenty- 
four  hours,  and  his  desire  is  unexpectedly  gratified,  he 
don't  know  how  to  pay  for  the  kindness  of  the 
accommodation.       If  he    had    paid    me    in    propor- 


.-  ' ; 


12 

tiun  for  the  benefits  he  derived,  or  seemed  to  have 
derived,  it  would  have  taken  half  his  fortune,  and  he 
is  said  to  be  worth  millions.  I  made  the  trip  pleasant 
ay  I  could  tor  them  until  the  Indian  pilot  came  on 
board,  when  one  of  the  gentlemen  approached  me 
and  handed  me  a  ten  dollar  bill  as  a  token  of  their 
appreciation  for  services  rendered.  I  politely  de- 
clined accepting  it,  saying  that  the  steamboat  line 
and  the  hotel  I  had  the  honor  to  represent  paid  me 
for  making  the  trip  a  pleasant  one,  and  I  therefore 
could  not  receive  any  compensation.  Then  he  said, 
'' You  can  give  it  to  the  Indian  pilot,"  which  I  did. 
This  little  act  endeared  me  more  in  the  estinr.ation  of 
the  faithful  pilot  than  ever,  and  from  that  time  on  I 
could  always  get  him  to  shake  the  hand  of  any  pas- 
senger who  expressed  a  desire  to  do  so.  I  have 
presented  as  many  as  ten  ladies  in  a  day  who  re- 
quested the  honor  of  taking  him  by  the  hand. 


AUNT   AND  I. 

I  receive  many  invitations  during  the  season  to 
accompany  parties  on  their  fishing  tours  and  pic-nics 
among  the  islands.  Refused  many  last  year,  but 
accepted  one.  The  party  consisted  of  ten  persons, 
with  their  chartered  yacht,  the  Claud  S.  Leaving  the 
Bay  at  8  o'clock,  a.  m.,  we  were  at  9:45  at  the  point 
selected  or  the  fishing,  pleasure  and  dinner.  The 
gentlemen  very  quietly  selected  their  boats  and  fish- 
ermen and  were  quickly  off  for  fish,  leaving  me  to 
attend  to  and  amuse  the  ladies.  After  the  captain 
and  engineer  of  the  yacht  had  arranged  wraps,  mats, 
folding-chairs  and  a  hammock  for  each  of  the  party 
we  roamed  the  woods  during  the  interim  and  returned 


;d  to  have 
me,  and  he 
ip  pleasant 
t  came  on 
oached  me 
sn  of  their 
olitely  de- 
iiboat  line 
t  paid  me 
I  therefore 
3n  he  said, 
lich  I  did. 
inflation  of 
t  time  on  I 
)f  any  pas- 
I  have 
y  who  re- 
nd. 


season  to 
fid  pic-nics 

year,  but 
n  persons, 
eaving  the 

the  point 
iner.  The 
:s  and  fish- 
ing me  to 
he  captain 
raps,  mats, 

the  party 
d  returned 


13 

to  rest  at  will.  Lying  down  upon  a  knoll  on  a  mat, 
the  ladies  around  me,  I  recited  for  their  amusement, 
"  Pat's  Dream  of  Heaven."  When  in  the  most 
pathetic  part  I  felt  something  creeping  up  my  shin- 
bone,  with  a  determined  business-like  tread.  What 
could  it  be  ?  My  thoughts  were  wandering  from  the 
subject.  In  any  other  position  or  at  any  other  time  I 
would  not  care.  I  became  nervous,  my  manhood  was 
aroused,  my  feelings  must  not  be  trifled  with.  I 
determined  to  make  a  serious  line  in  the  poem  funny, 
so  I  could  slap  my  knee  and  at  the  same  time  kill  the 
vermin  ;  I  made  the  effort  but  it  did  not  work.  The 
blow  made  me  feel  as  if  a  bar  of  pig-iron  had  been 
shot  through  my  limbs.  The  ladies  looked  at  me  as 
if  scared,  thinking  I  might  have  an  attack  of  the 
J.  J.'s,  or  worse.  On  my  face  was  a  number  seven 
smile,  while  my  brow  was  knit  smoking  hot  with 
rage.  I  could  not  excuse  myself  to  go  and  see  a 
man.  No!  no!  What  could  I  do  ?  At  this  moment 
up  jumped  Miss  Alice.  She  jumped  again  and  again, 
turned  red  in  the  face,  grabbed  her  skirts  tightly 
with  botii  hands,  ran  for  the  woods  saying  :  "  Get 
out  !  get  out!"  It  is  supposed  there  were  just  ants 
enough  for  two.  Dinner  was  announced  and  there 
were  two  who  could  not  do  the  subject  justice,  Alice 
and  I. 

IF   YOU  GUESS  V^HAT   IT    IS  YOU  MAY 

HAVE    IT. 

The  conundrum  which  these  head  lines  indicate 
came  to  me  in  the  shape  of  a  short,  thick-set  old 
gentleman,  who  asked  of  me  numerous  questions,  all 
of    which    were    answered   cheerfully,    but    when    I 


14 

attempted  to  ask  him  one,  he  took  from  his  vest 
pocket  the  following,  which  vou  can  peruse,  dear 
reader,  and  ponder  over,  and  if  you  can  guess  who 
the  author  of  it  is,  you  will  pertorm  what  I  was 
unable  to  fathom. 


LETTER  OF  THE  CADI. 


-: 


i 


I  \ 


IMAUM  A  I.I  ZADE. 

lO    AN    KNCl.lSIIM  AN    Wlio    HAD    KMjl'IlJKl)    (.ONCKKMNd     THE    I'OI'II.A  TID.V, 

i;rsi.\i-;ss  and  i'KK\u)rs    msi'iKv  dk  his  cri\'. 

My  Illustrious  Friend  and  Joy  of  my  liver!  The 
thing  you  ask  is  both  difficult  and  useless.  Although 
I  have  passed  all  my  days  in  this  place,  I  have  neither 
counted  the  houses  nor  have  I  inquired  into  the 
number  of  the  iniiabitants  ;  and  as  to  what  one  per- 
son loads  on  his  mules  and  the  other  stows  away  in 
the  bottom  of  his  ship,  that  is  no  business  of  mine. 
But,  above  all,  as  to  the  previous  history  of  this  city, 
God  only  knows  the  amount  of  dirt  and  confusion 
that  the  infidels  may  have  eaten  before  the  coming  of 
the  sword  of  Islam.  It  were  unprofitable  for  us  to 
inquire  into  it. 

Oh,  my  soul  !  oh,  my  lamb  !  seek  not  after  the 
things  which  concern  thee  not.  Thou  camest  unto 
us,  and  we  welcomed  thee ;  go  in  peace. 

Of  a  truth,  thou  hast  spoken  many  words  ;  and 
there  is  no  harm  done,  for  the  speaker  is  one  and  the 
listener  is  another.  After  the  fashion  of  thy  people 
thou  hast  wandered  from  one  place  to  another  until 
thou  art  happy  and  content  in  none.  VVe  (praise  be 
to  God)  weie  born  here  and  never  desire  to  quit  it. 
Is  it  possible  then  that  the  idea  of  a  general  inter- 
course between  mankind  should  make  any  impression 
on  our  understandings?     God  forbid  ! 

Listen,  oh  my  son  !  There  is  no  wisdom  equal  to 
the  belief  in  God  !  He  created  the  world,  and  shall 
we  liken  ourselves  unto  Him  in  seeking  to  penetrate 


n 


his  vest 
iruse,  dear 
guess  who 
hat    I   was 


■orri.A  rioN". 


iver !     The 

Although 

ave  neither 

i    into    the 

It  one  per- 

vvs  away  in 

ss  of  mine. 

n  this  city, 

.  confusion 

coming  of 

e  for  us  to 

t  after  the 
amest  unto 

/^ords  ;  and 
)ne  and  the 

thy  people 
jther   until 

(praise  be 
;  to  quit  it. 
lerai  inter- 
impression 

Ti  equal  to 
,  and  shall 
o  penetrate 


15 

into  the  mysteries  of  His  creation  ?  Shall  we  say, 
behold  this  star  spinneth  round  that  star,  and  this 
other  star  with  a  tail  goeth  and  cometh  in  so  many 
years!  Let  it  go!  He  from  whose  hand  it  came 
will  guide  and  direct  it. 

But  thou  wilt  say  unto  me.  Stand  aside,  oh  man, 
for  I  am  more  learned  than  thou  art,  and  have  seen 
more  things.  If  thou  thinkest  that  thou  art  in  this 
respect  better  than  I  am,  thou  art  welcome.  I  praise 
God  that  I  seek  not  that  I  require  no'.  Thou  are 
learned  in  the  things  I  care  not  for;  and  as  for  that 
which  thou  hast  seen,  I  defile  it.  Will  much  knowl- 
edge create  thee  a  double  belly,  or  wilt  thou  seek 
Paradise  with  thine  eyes  ? 

Oh,  my  friend!  It  thou  wilt  be  happy,  say,  There 
is  no  God  but  God  !  Do  no  evil,  and  thus  wilt  thou 
fear  neither  man  nor  death,  for  surely  thine  hour  will 
come ! 

The  meek  in  spirit  (El  Fakir,) 

IMAUM  ALI  ZADE. 

Messrs.  COOK  &  TOWNSEND,  of  Rochester, 

N.  Y., 

have,  from  time  to  time  in  the  past,  made  thousands 
of  people  pleased  with  their  excursions  down  the  St. 
Lawrence,  but  for  the  past  three  years  have  been 
giving  their  attention  to  European  excursions.  I 
hope  next  year  to  see  them  bending  their  energies  to 
again  visit  the  majestic  St.  Lawrence. 

MY    MEETING    WITH    DAVID    DUDLEY 

FIELD,  OR    HOW   I    EARNED 

TWENTY-TWO  CENTS. 

One  year  ago  last  season  Alexander  Bay  was 
honored  with  a  visit  from  David  Dudley  Field,  the 
distinguished  jurist.     Seeing  one  day  he  was  about 


t 


1 


II 


[  ■\i 


i.    ! 


ill' 


V 


i6 

to  be  a  passenger  on  the  boat  Island  Wanderer  for  a 
trip  among  the  Islands,  I  thought  I  would  introduce 
myself  to  him,  and  at  the  same  time  make  him  a  pres- 
ent of  my  book  and  map,  as  it  would  give  him  the 
name  ol"  every  island,  cottage  and  stopping  place  of 
the  boat  on  her  trip.  Approaching  him,  I  said  :  "Mr. 
Field,  I  have  liere  a  little  book  which  on  page  37 
commences  a  description  of  your  trip  this  afternoon." 
He  took  the  book  out  of  my  hand  and  upon  reading 
the  title,  said  :  "  I  don't  want  anything  humorous  ;  " 
and  I  remarked  that  it  was  only  humorous  where  it 
was  not  descriptive,  and  if  he  didn't  care  for  it  I  had 
a  picture  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River.  Before  I  could 
say  any  more  he  had  turned  the  book  over  and  saw 
the  price  of  it  was  twenty-five  cents,  and  he  com- 
menced going  through  almost  a  contoition  of  body, 
and  fumbling  in  his  pockets  for  the  t\7enty-five  cents 
to  get  rid  of  me,  and  I  saw  that  his  efforts  were  in  vain, 
for  all  he  could  produce  was  twenty-two  cents,  and 
he  forced  me  to  takf  it,  notwithstanding  the  fact  that 
I  had  said  to  him  that  I  came  there  for  the  purpose  of 
making  him  a  present  of  my  book,  also  a  picture  of 
tlie  St.  Lawrence  River,  which  I  repeated  again. 
Then  he  said,  "  Why  didn't  you  do  it  then,"  and  my 
answer  was,  that  "You  didn't  give  me  time,  and  seeing 
that  you  have  thrust  this  twenty-two  cents  upon  me, 
I  shall  have  the  pleasure  of  keeping  it  until  I  return 
home,  and  then  it  shall  go  into  my  museum  of 
curiosities.  When  you  come  and  visit  me  you  shall 
see  it." 

HOW  WOMEN  FISH. 

Having  read  various  descriptions  of  how  fishing  is 
carried  on  by  the  fair  sex   at  the  several   watering 


X  .J^_ 


17 


t? 


erer  for  a 

introduce 

m  a  pres- 

hini    the 

place  of 

lid  :   "Mr. 
|i   P^ge  37 

"ternoon." 

n  reading- 

Tiorous 
5  where  it 
)r  it  I  had 
'e  I  could 

r  and  saw 
he  coni- 
1  of  body, 
-five  cents 
re  in  vain, 
cents,  and 
e  fact  that 
)urpose  of 
picture  of 
ed  again, 
and  my 
ind  seeing 
upon  me, 
1  I  return 
Liseum  of 
you  shall 


places,  pe 


rmit   us  to   mention   some    of    them.     One 


fishing  is 
watering 


writer  said  :  "  Ah  I  what  joy  to  have  a  bite;  v;hat 
rare  delight  to  iind  one's  bait  gone" — and  it  was  only 
by  the  suicidal  p  jlicy  of  some  water- weary  fish  who 
chanced  to  pass  our  way  that  we  could  record  one 
fish  for  our  duy's  sporv  How  different  is  tl]e  fishing 
at  the  Bay. 

As  an  illustratic  ;i,  a  very  funny  anecdote  was 
recited  to  me  by  xMr.  J.  C.  Covert,  editor  of  the 
Cleveland  Leader,  who  said,  "  Talk  about  ladies 
catching  fish,  I  am  somewhat  of  an  angler  myself 
and  take  a  great  deal  of  comfort  fishing  at  the  Bay. 
The  other  day  I  was  out  fishing  with  my  wife,  who,  by 
the  w^ay,  has  no  pretensions  as  a  captivator  of  the 
finny  tribe,  yet  she  caught  seven  fish  before  I  had 
time  to  put  my  line  into  the  water."  This  somevvhat 
astonished  me,  and  T  remarked  that  he  must  have 
been  very  slow  that  morning.  He  answered  by 
telling  me,  "No!  On  the  contrary,  I  was  very 
lively  ;  all  my  time  was  employed  taking  the  fish  off 
and  baiting  her  hook."  He  entered  a  protest  after 
that  and  let  the  boatman  attend  to  Mrs.  Covert's  line 
while  he  enjoyed  the  sport. 

A  gentleman  says  of  the  fishing  near  the  Hudson  : 
"The  first  thing  a  woman  does  when  she  goes  fishing 
is  to  make  herself  look  as  hideous  as  possible — a  sort 
of  a  cross  between  the  Witch  of  Endor  and  Meg 
Merriles.  This  is  done  by  a  hideous  straw  hat  big 
enough  to  cover  a  chicken  coop,  the  oldest  and  most 
unbecoming  dress  she  has  got,  a  pair  of  gloves  six 
sizes  too  large,  and,  if  possible,  rubber  boots.  And 
the  sight  of  woman,  lovely  woman,  so  dressea, 
presents  a  spectacle  of  pity."      You   will    not    have 


ii 


I  ,( 


l|i      •! 


r;', 


f  ! 


i8 


occasion  to  pity  any  of  the  ladies  who  go  fishiti<r 
from  the  Bay,  for  they  look  so  jaunty  you  wouM 
envy  them  and  their  enjoyment  as  well  as  fish.  I 
have  known  Mrs.  Madden  and  party  to  bring  homo 
30  fish  varying  in   size   from  a  3^    black   bass  to  a  7 

pound  pickerel.     A  friend  writes  from  C Lake, 

telling  how  he  spent  a  dav  fishing  there,  accompanied 
by  three  ladies  and  a  gentleman  friend.  "  Women 
never  step  into  a  boat  here,  they  always  jump.  Of 
course  she  slips,  falls  down,  yells  for  help,  nearly 
upsets  the  boat,  and  is  put  to  rights  by  the  most 
eligible  young  man  in  the  party.  Nothing  will  do 
then,  but  she  must  row,  and  she  knows  as  much 
about  rowing  as  a  cow  does  about  billiards.  She 
handles  her  oars  as  if  they  were  trees,  splashes  every 
one  with  water,  and  after  half  an  hour's  work  she  is 
about  ten  feet  away  in  the  wrong  direction,  when 
one  of  the  men  takes  the  oars  and  we  are  soon  at  our 
fishing  place.  She  tries  to  bait  her  hook,  and  after 
getting  the  hook  into  all  her  fingers  (in  fact  every- 
where but  into  the  minnow),  her  friend  baits  her 
hook,  and  she  throws  it  out.  The  first  time  it  catches 
onto  one  of  the  ladies*  ears,  the  next  throw,  into  the 
back  of  the  gentleman's  neck,  and  the  third  time  into 
the  coat  of  her  friend,  who  quietly  cuts  it  out  (it  is 
his  best  coat),  and  he  gently  puts  the  line  into  the 
water  without  saying  a  cuss  word,  and  says  he  hopes 
she  will  catch  a  whale.  After  a  few  moments  of 
quiet  a"  are  informed  she  has  a  bitt ;  she  pulls  it  in 
steadily  to  find  it  is  part  of  the  carcass  of  a  dead 
horse.  She  is  soon  relieved  of  the  burden  and 
catches  a  small  perch.  She  is  so  delighted  that  she 
must   let   it  flop   into  the  faces  of  every   one   in  the 


'ii 


^^ 


»9 


'o    fishitiLT 
on    vvouM 
as   fish.     I 
ring  home 
bass  to  a  7 
—  Lake, 
:oinpaniecl 
"  Women 
jump.     Of 
p,   nearly 
the    most 
ig   will  do 
s  as  much 
irds.      She 
shes  every 
^ork  she  is 
ion,  when 
oon  at  our 
,  and  after 
act  every- 
baits  her 
■  it  catches 
iv,  into  the 
I  time  into 
out  (it  is 
3  into  the 
1  he  hopes 
3ments  of 
)ulls  it  in 
of  a  dead 
rden   and 
I  that  she 
ne   in  the 


boat,  tries  for  twenty  minutes  to  take  it  off  tlie  hook, 
but  her  fingers  are  so  sore  she  lets  the  job  out  to  her 
male  companion.  One  of  the  other  ladies  has  sat  for 
two  hours  without  moving  a  muscle,  while  the  other, 
I  believe,  would  fish  with  a  hair-pin  baited  with  a 
piece  of  red  flannel  hung  to  a  skein  of  silk  in  a 
stationary  wash-tub,  and  solemnly  declare  when  she 
got  through  that  she  had  millions  of  bites."  Dear 
lady  readers,  we  have  no  such  experiences  to  relate  at 
Alexandria  Bay.  The  boats  are  the  prettiest,  the 
fishermen  the  nicest,  the  fish  the  largest  and  best,  the 
boatmen  bait  your  hooks.  The  hotel  furnishes  the 
lunch,  and  you  are  sure  to  catch  fish.  When  they  are 
cooked  and  you  eat  your  meal  served  upon  an  Island, 
and  do  not  say  you  have  had  the  most  pleasant  day 
ever  spent  fishing,  draw  on  me  for  the  balance. 

P.  B. 


DON  PERANDO  WHISKERANDO. 

A  gentleman  whose  name  I  was  unable  to  ascertain 
boarded  the  Island  Wanderer  for  a  little  trip  to  the 
Fiddler's  Elbow  Lake  of  the  Thousand  Islands,  &c. 
As  he  was  attracting  considerable  attention  owing  to 
the  fact  of  his  having  a  red,  white  and  blue  beard,  I 
approached  him  and  had  the  following  conversation  : 
"My  friend,  I  see  your  whiskers  are  red,  white  and 
blue — is  that  a  natural  growth  or  do  you  dye  them  ?" 
"  No,  sir;  I  use  no  dye  whatever.  The  fact  is,  when  I 
was  a  young  man  my  beard  was  red  ;  as  I  grew  old 
it  began  to  turn  white  and  as  I  came  up  here  on  the 
deck  the  wind  blew  through  them."  "Enough  said, 
here  is  a  copy  of  my  book." 


r 


20 


1: 


■Ih   T 


1  ;;. 

11  '  - 

i        ■! 

!  f|,!i 
■■■■!' 

YOU   KNOW  HER. 

She  is  one  of  tlie  stronq-  minded  of  the  female  sex, 
and  generally  has  iier  own  way  in  everythinc^.  At 
any  rate  she  stands  ready  at  any  and  all  times  to 
combat  with  any  on3  of  the  lords  of  creati(jn,  or 
otherwise,  wIkj  may  dispute  her  sway.  We  prefer 
your  imagination  to  fill  in  a  description,  because  it 
would  be  next  to  an  impossibility  for  me  to  do  so. 
She  has  all  the  requisites  :  tlie  thin,  tall  figure,  the 
liatchet  face,  sharp  nose,  wears  glasses,  and  always 
carries  an  umbrella.  About  one  each  day  will  pass 
down  this  route  in  Summer,  except  when  an  Eastern 
or  Western  Excursion  comes;  then  it  will  be  hard  to 
select  those  wlio  are  not  of  her  kind.  The  first 
object  that  strikes  her  eye  is  our  manly  figure.  After 
looking  it  well  over,  she  remembers  that  fat  people 
are  proverbially  jolly  and  good  natured,  so  she  breaks 
into  conversation,  and  about  the  first  question  she 
asks  is:  "Were  you  always  as  large  as  y(>u  are 
now?"  "  Oh,  yes  !  I  was  born  this  size."  The  answer 
causes  her  to  discover  siie  has  left  out  the  word  "  pro- 
portion." So  she  apologizes,  smiles  for  the  first  time, 
and  we  are  friends  for  the  trip. 


M 


li  ■;  " 

l|i''t 
f    III!!  I 


1!!'!! 


i  H 


!:!i 


WILL  HE  HAVE   IT  THERE? 

An  English  tourist  registered  at  one  of  the  Thousand 
Island  Houses,  Alexandria  Bay,  asked  the  clerk  for  a 
corner  room  up  one  flight,  on  shady  side,  a,  special 
hall  boy,  meals  served  in  room,  a  bath,  and  candle 
instead  of  gas,  steam  heat  and —  '-Hold  on!"  said 
the  clerk  ;  "  I  think  you  have  made  a  mistake ;  this  is 
not  heaven." 


21 


eniale  sex, 
thintr.     At 
1   times  to 
"cati(jn,  or 
We   prefer 
because  it 
to  do   so. 
figure,  the 
nd  always 
'  will    pass 
an  Eastern 
be  hard  to 
The    first 
ire.     After 
fat   people 
she  breaks 
lestion    she 
s    you    are 
fhe  answer 
vord  "  pro- 
;  first  time, 


E? 

I  Thousand 
:Ierk  for  a 
,  a.  special 
nd  candle 
on  !"  said 
^e;  this  is 


LORD  H.  U.  MERRIAM 

was  a  visitor  at  Alexandria  Bav  last  season,  and 
while  he  remained  put  up,  from  choice, at  the  Marsden 
House,  Alexandria  Bay.  VVe  were  very  intimate  and 
social  during  his  :^^.^■y\  and  I  inferred  he  came  where 
I  take  my  meals  to  see  if  he  could  get  as  fat  as  I  am. 

WHAT    I  KNOW   ABOUT   ELI    PERKINS. 

Some  few  years  ago,  Mr.  Perkins  was  a  passenger 
on  one  of  the  boats.  I  do  not  know  whether  he  took 
me  for  the  captain,  director  or  manager  of  the  line  or 
not,  but  he  exerted  liimself  consiflerably  to  form  my 
acquaintance.  There  was  nothing  unusual  about  that, 
however,  as  there  is  something  ''uiistuii^ue''  about  me, 
and  when  on  the  boat  I  stand  considerably  "above 
proof."  I  have  frequently  dined  at  the  same  table 
with  the  Governor-General,  Lord  I^ufferin  and  retinue 
— after  his  lordship  had  left.  But  to  return  to  Eli. 
The  day  in  question  I  was  upon  the  boat,  as  usual, 
describing  the  points  of  interest,  especially  the  one 
on  the  Canadian  shore,  where  the  St.  Regis  Indians 
come  year  after  year  to  gather  the  famous  elm  and 
basswood  with  which  to  make  their  celebrated 
baskets.  I  was  delineating  at  some  length  upon  the 
noble  red  man,  when  Eli  came  to  me  and  said,  I  will 
write  you  a  verse  of  poetry  about  that.  Glad  to  get  a 
memento  in  that  shape  from  so  distinguished  an 
individual,  who  had  so  often  been  accused  of  being 
witty,  I  said  it  would  please  me  very  much.  Here  is 
the  verse. 

"  Once  here  the  noble  red  man  took  his  delights, 

Fit,  fished  and  bled  ; 
Now  most  of  the  inhabitants  are  white, 

With  nary  a  red." 


;! 


^Siit 


,:!i: 


lii: 


■\\i'\: 


22 

I  tlijuiked  him  very  profusely,  and  on  subseqiK-nt 
occasions  took  gre.it  delight  in  repeating  the  lines  lo 
tlie  passengers — never  forgetting  for  a  moment  to 
remind  them  that  they  were  written  for  me  l)y  the 
alleged  American  humorist.  One  day,  after  deliver- 
ing myself  of  the  pcjctry  and  repeating  to  the  passen- 
gers that  it  was  written  by  the  celebrated  poet,  writer, 
humorist  and  lecturer,  Ftli  Perkins,  I  was  approached 
by  an  exceedingly  polite  and  afTablegentleman,  whom 
I  learned  was  Mr.  John  II.  Rochester,  of  Rochester, 
N.  v.,  who  asked  me  if  he  understood  me  correctly 
in  attributing  the  authorship  of  the  lines  quoted  to 
Mr.  Perkins.  I  assured  him  that  he  had  written  them 
expressly  for  me,  and  produced  in  Eli's  ovvn  hand- 
writing the  original  copy.  With  a  subdued  smile 
resting  upon  his  countenance,  Mr,  Rochester  informed 
me  that  there  must  be  an  error  somewhere,  as  a  gen- 
tleman, a  Mr.  Fletcher,  had  written  a  poem  in  1834, 
in  which  the  exact  verse  occurred,  and  he  proceeded 
to  repeat  the  verse  from  memory.  This  took  me 
slightly  back,  and  I  subsequently  came  to  the  conclu- 
sion, with  "  my  friend  "  of  the  Oil  City  Derrick,  that 
a  cabbage  leaf  was  never  more  at  home  than  when  in 
the  crown  of  "  Uli  Perkins'  hat."  After  that  I  had 
no  more  use  for  the  poem,  but  determined  if  I  ever 
met  "Uli"  I  should  call  to  his  mind  the  circum- 
stances connected  with  "  his  little  poem."  I  had  not 
long  to  wait,  for  one  day,  while  in  Evansville, 
Indiana,  at  the  St.  George  Hotel,  I  met  the  gentle- 
man, and  recalled  the  circumstances  connected  with 
the  little  verse,  and  he,  with  a  perfect  air  of  nonchalance^ 
said  that  he  had  never  given  it  a  thought  since — 
dashed  it  oft'  in  a  minute.   I  told  him  how  remarkable 


subsequent 
the  lines  lo 
oment    lo 
me  by  tlio 
Ler  flclivci- 
lie  p.'isseii- 
oct,  writer, 
ipproached 
nan,  whom 
J'^ochester, 
e  eorrectlv 
!  quoted  to 
ritten  them 
ovvn  hand- 
rlued  smile 
;r  informed 
e,  as  a  gen- 
m  in    1834, 
!  proceeded 
s    took    me 
the  conclu- 
^errick,  that 
an  when  in 
that  I  had 
;d  if  I  ever 
tie  circum- 
I  had  not 
Evansville, 
the  gentle- 
lected  with 
'wnchalance^ 
ht  since — 
emarkable 


it  was  that  great  minds  often  run  inthesatne  channel, 
and  related  my  experience  with  his  gem.  lie  scowled, 
and,  turning  on  his  heel,  said  it  was  indeed  a  singular 
wonl-for-word  resen.l)lance,  but  changed  the  subject 
at  once,  and  asked  me  to  his  room  on  the  following 
morning,  which  invitation  I  cheerfully  accepted,  dot- 
ing all  the  evening  upon  having  a  nice  time,  and 
swapping  a  few  gags,  etc.,  etc. ;  but  my  hoj)es  were 
blighted,  for  the  next  morning  I  was  informed  of  his 
very  early  departure — gone  up  to  lie  to  the  peo[)le 
of  Rockport,  I  was  told.  "  Uli  "  is  a  great  m;ui  and 
contracts  a  larger  amount  of  business  upon  a  very 
small  amount  of  capital  than  any  pidjlic  character  I 
know  of.  When  Eli  reads  this  I  expect  he  will  load 
his  big  gun — ncjt  intellectual,  but  otherwise  — and 
come  for  me.  I  will,  therefore,  give  him  a  pointer  in 
advance  ;  there  won't  anything  scare  me  but  a  stomach 
pump. 

ALEXANDRIA  BAY  AS  A  MFXCA  FOR 

ALL  PERSONS  AFFLICTED  WITH 

ASTHMA  OR  HAY  FEVER. 

The  effect  produced  almost  instantly  upon  those 
troubled  with  these  diseases  is  simply  marvelous,  to 
say  the  least.  You  would  hardly  credit  the  assertions 
it  I  should  make  them.  Permit  me  as  an  illustration 
to  cite  one  instance  which  I  deem  remarkable.  Dr. 
Buckley,  one  of  Rochester's  noted  physicians,  was  so 
low  in  August  last  that  he  had  to  be  taken  (>x\  a  bed 
from  his  home  to  the  Rome,  Watertown  &  Ogdens- 
burg  railroad  and  placed  upon  the  cars.  He  arrived 
at  Alexandria  Bsy  that  evening.  The  nexr.  morning 
I  met  him  walking  on  the  dock  smoking  a  cigar,  feel- 
ing as  happy  as  he  ever  felt  in  his  life. 


24 


i! 


m 


lull 

'ill 


i!l 


The  daiii^hter  of  an  editor  of  a  Rocliester  paper 
also  came  here  to  av(jid  asthma  and  remained  six 
weeks.  She  never  had  the  least  show  or  sign  of  the 
disease  while  at  Alexandria  Biy  but  took  an  excur- 
sion (jne  day  over  to  Canada  and  was  not  on  the  land 
more  than  an  hour  when  she  was  forced  to  return  or 
suffer  an  attack  of  hay  fever. 

H.  R.  CLARK,  of  New  York. 

This  little  volume  would  not  be  complete  if  it  did 
not  mention  his  name,  not  only  in  connection  with 
the  fishincr  at  Alexandria  Bay,  but  the  facts  of  his 
having  given  more  time  and  money  towards  stopping 
illegal  fishing  than  all  the  owners  of  cottages  and 
islands  combined.  He  was  elected  an  honorable 
member  of  the  Canadian  Fisheries  Commission,  and 
was  the  prime  mover  in  forming  the  Anglers'  Asso- 
ciation of  the  Thousand  Islands,  and  personally 
captured  more  nets  than  all  others  interested.  He  is 
the  most  enthusiastic,  as  well  as  the  best  posted 
gentleman  that  comes  to  the  Islands  to  fish,  and 
knows  more  about  the  habits  and  nature  of  the  finny 
tribe  than  any  other  party  who  comes  here  to  fish.  He 
won  the  gold  medal  given  for  the  largest  and  best 
catch  of  fish  for  the  season  of  1885.  His  standing 
offer  to  catch  ten-  pounds  of  fish  in  a  given  hour,  in 
any  day,  from  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  during  the 
season,  or  give  ten  dollars  to  any  charitable  institu- 
tion, T  may  menri.^n,  if  he  fails.  Here  is  one  of  his 
catches  on  an  eight-ounce  rod.  a  single  leader,  a  ''  G" 
line,  a  fish  weighing  seventy-eight  pounds,  girt, 
measure  twenty-nine  inches,  length  sixty-three  mches, 
time  in  landing  one  hour  and  five  minutes.  Beat  this 
and  I  will  tell  you  more. 


1 


25 

Hon.  A.  CORNWALL,  of  Alexandria  Bay. 

Cornwall  &  Walton  were  the  original  purchasers 
of  the  Thousand  Islands,  in  the  American  channel  of 
the  river,  from  the  government.  JMr.  A.  Cornwall  is 
tlie  survivor  of  the  firm  and  therefore  the  father  of 
them,  and  I  call  him  Pa.  If  you  desire  any  informa- 
tion not  in  this  volume,  call  on  him  at  the  old  stone 
stores  of  Cornwall  Brothers,  and  he  will  give  it  to 
you  cheerfully.  He  is  an  Encyclopedia  of  facts  on 
the  St.  Lawrence  or  the  Thousand  Islands. 


Qfirt 


% 


\A/HAT  AND  WHO    MADE    ALEXANDRIA 

BAY. 

In  1872  President  Grant  visited  this  delightful  spot, 
a  guest  of  Geo.  M,  Pullman,  of  palace  car  fame, 
Pullman  Island.  There  was  at  that  time  inadequate 
hotel  accommodations,  for  the  tourist  as  well  as  the 
visitor  who  had  been  drawn  to  this,  the  most  beautiful 
ndiural  scenery  in  the  world.  Messrs.  Cornwall  and 
Walton,  of  Alexandria  Bay,  with  their  usual  display 
of  s-^nse  and  sagacity,  as  well  as  business  tact,  for 
which  they  have  always  been  commended,  offered  to 
give  the  best  site  on  the  St.  Lawrence  to  any  man 
who  would  erect  upon  it  a  first-class  summer  hotel. 
Mr.  O.  G.  Staples,  of  Watertown,  N  Y.,  hearing  of 
this  offer  came,  he  saw,  and  how  he  conquered  you 
shall  know  as  we  proceed  with  our  narrative.  Well, 
he  concluded  to  father  the  scheme.  Securing  a  man 
with  money,  a  Mr.  Nott,  of  Syracuse,  the  ground,  or 
rock  rather,  was  broken  January  14th,  1873,  and  the 
Thousand  Island  House  was  completed  and  opened 
July    17th,  1873,  just    six   months  from   the   day   of 


I 


I 


I  \i 


M 


.•■1(1 


lM 


26 

starting.  Rumor  says  that  although  their  money  gave 
out  a  little  above  the  first  story.  Staples'  indomitable 
will  saw  it  completed  and  furnished,  read)>  to  receive 
guests,  just  as  soon  and  as  well  as  if  he  had  been  a 
millionaire.  During  the  next  two  years  of  the  part- 
nership of  Staples  and  Nott,  everything  did  not  go 
as  smooth  as  a  marriage  bell,  but  still  they  went,  and 
in  the  end  Staples  had  the  money  and  hotel.  (I  hope 
the  reader,  if  he  knows  Staples,  will  not  be  so  unkind 
as  to  accuse  him  of  parting  with  all  his  experience 
and  make  the  pun  that  he  took  the  money  and  Nott 
the  experience).  Staples  bought  out  Nott,  and,  I 
believe,  paid  him  what  was  agreed,  and  he  run  the 
hotel  until  April  15th,  1883,  when  Mr.  R.  H.  South- 
gate  (the  man  of  many  hotels,  too  numerous  to 
mention  here),  be.  .ght  him  out.  The  many  changes 
that  have  been  made,  and  those  contemplated,  when 
completed,  will  make  this  the  Mecca  of  summer 
resort  watering  places,  the  Venice  of  America.  I 
desire  to  say  right  here  that  I  hope  Mr.  Southgate 
will  not  lose  sight  of  what  has  in  the  past  made  the 
Bay  popular  as  a  resort.  I  like  to  see  the  standard 
of  visitors  raised  as  well  as  the  prices.  I  would  like 
it  to  be  the  place  for  fish  as  well  as  those  who  love 
the  piscatorial  art.  No  dust,  no  dampness,  no  malaria 
or  hay  fever,  no  mosquitoes;  light,  dry  air,  cool  and 
bracing.  Thermometer  never  over  80  or  below  50  in 
July  or  August,  and  one  can  enjoy  what  is  denied 
them  almost  everywhere  else,  a  good  nine  hours  of 
cool  refreshing  sleep  under  a  blanket.  Those 
troubled  with  pulmonary  complaints  will  find  great 
relief  here.  Steamers,  steam  yachts  and  sailing  ves- 
sels abound,  everything  to  animate  the  scene  and 
enhance  the  pleasure  of   visitors  is  done.     Fishing, 


ey  gave 
mitable 
receive 
been  a 
he  part- 
not  go 
ent,  and 
(I  hope 
»  unkind 
perience 
nd  Nolt 
t,  and,  I 
run  the 
I.  South- 
erous   to 
changes 
ed,  when 
summer 
lerica.     I 
louthgate 
iiade  the 
standard 
ould  like 
who  love 
o  malaria 
cool  and 
low  50  in 
is  denied 
;  hours  of 
Those 
find  great 
liling  ves- 
3cene  and 
Fishing, 


<'k 


27 

fishing  boats,  bathing,  etc.,  as  well  as  fish  abound, 
and  we  say  here,  if  you  have  never  been  to  the  Bay, 
come.  Mr.  Fred  W.  Lee  will  personally  attend  to 
the  wants  of  guests,  and  if  you  can  be  pleased  any- 
where I  feel  confident  he  is  the  right  man  in  the 
right  place. 

FIFTEEN  CENTS,  OR  TWO  FOR  A 

QUARTER. 

It  is  a  fact,  no  matter  how  strange  it  may  seem, 
Alexandria  Bay  has  more  weddings  and  wedding 
parties  than  any  other  watering  place  in  the  country. 
According  to  statistics,  there  were  no  more  than  five 
thousand  marriage  ceremonies  performed  in  the  par- 
lors of  the  Thousand  Island  House  last  season.  It  is 
a  source  of  great  enjoyment  to  many  to  watch  the 
newly  married  couples  promenade  on  the  spacious 
verandas  of  the  different  hotels.  A  little  incident 
occurred  last  summer  which  was  very  much  enjoyed 
by  the  people  who  were  in  the  immediate  vicinity. 
Some  mischievous  individual  dumped  a  large  quan- 
tity of  rice  in  a  bride's  parasol  previous  to  their 
going  on  board  the  steamer.  As  she  was  waving  an 
adieu  to  her  friends  on  shore,  a  sudden  burst  of  sun- 
light caused  her  to  raise  her  parasol,  and  the  shower 
of  rice  that  went  down  her  worser  half's  collar  caused 
him  to  stand  upon  his  head  several  times  during  the 
day  for  relief.  He  seemed  to  be  somewhat  provoked 
but  used  no  language  of  a  malicious  nature. 

THE  LARGE  GATHERINGS. 

Round  Island  Park,  Thousand  Island  Park  and 
Alexandria  Bay  have,  at  different  times,  been  honored 
by  conventions,  meetings  of  associations  in  conven- 


i~  !| 


i 


m'  ' 


1^^ 


!, 


!  IK 


<H 


m 


iiiii 


j,i 

;i'i 


28 

tion,  pilgrimages,  etc.,  a  minute  description  of  which 
would  fill  a  volume  ten  times  the  size  of  this  one,  so 
I  can  only  mention  what  is  uppermost  in  my  ml  id, 
the  Press  Association  of  Vermont,  under  the  guid- 
ance of  S.  W.  Cummings.  Esq.,  the  general  passenger 
agent  of  the  Central  Vermont  Eailroad.  He  and  his 
associates  made  for  them  an  ever  to  be  remembered 
excursion  trip.  The  Librarians  of  America  stayed 
in  the  midst  of  the  Thousand  Islands  three  or  four 
days.  They  were,  without  exaggeration,  the  most 
refined  and  educated  body  of  men  and  women  that  I 
ever  met.  The  Brooklyn  Tabernacle,  with  its 
thousand  pilgrims,  were  also  delighted  with  every- 
things  they  saw  at  the  Thousand  Islands,  and  were 
profuse  in  their  expressions  of  its  scenic  beauty.  I 
met  the  Rev.  Dr.  Talmage  and  liad  a  personal  inter- 
view. I  don't  wonder  now  that  his  magnetism  holds 
such  sway  with  his  Brooklyn  audience,  and  that  the 
whole  world  receives  so  cheerfully  through  the  tele- 
graph his  sermons. 

THEY  DC  IT  EVERY  TIME. 

When  the  average  American's  postage  stamp  does 
not  stick  he  storms  around  and  makes  the  air  fairly 
blue  until  he  secures  the  mucilage  bottle  and  fixes 
the  stamp  to  his  latter.  Not  so  with  the  average 
Canadian.  He  procures  a  needle  and  thread,  sits 
quietly  down  and  sews  the  darned  thing  on. 

THE  HUMORISTS  OF  AMERICA. 

Most  of  these  jovial,  good-natured  souls  have,  at 
some  time  or  other,  paid  the  Thousand  Islands  and 
the  St.  Lawrence  River  a  visit,  but  it  would  be  use- 


*l 


1 


H:ii'i 


f  which 
one,  so 
y  ml  id, 
le  ^uid- 
issenger 

and  his 
gmbered 
a,  stayed 

or  four 
he  most 
en  that  I 
with  its 
th  every - 
.nd  were 
gauty.  I 
lal  inter- 
sm  holds 

that  the 

the  tele- 


>i 


amp  does 
air  fairly 
and  fixes 
;  average 
read,    sits 


CA. 

s  have,  at 
;lands  and 
Id  be  use- 


29 

less  for  me  to  try  and  remember  each  and  every  one 
of  them,  or  their  peculiarities.  I  cheerfully  remember 
Mark  Twain  (Samuel  L.  Clemens  Esq.,)  and  one  of 
the  funniest  stories  I  tell  was  of  an  evening  spent  at 
Toronto,  while  a  guest  of  a  friend,  and  the  little 
speech  that  he  made  introducing  Senator  Hawley, 
who  was  to  make  a  political  address  at  Elmira  N.  Y. 
He  was  a  passenger  down  the  river.  After  naming 
over  several  towns  and  streets  in  the  Province  of 
Quebec,  he  remarked  :     "  Are  they  all  saints  here;  no 


dinners 


>" 


SALISBURY, 

of  the  J^a//  River  Advance^  going  down  the  St.  Law- 
rence, as  a  passenger,  and  his  written  description  of 
the  trip,  is  the  most  humorous  that  I  have  had  the 
pleasure  of  perusing.  "  Bob"'  Burdette's,  of  the  Biir~ 
Ii?igto?i  Haivkeye,  description  of  the  Victoria  Bridge, 
is  very  funny.  Knox,  of  the  Texas  Si/tings^  went 
down  on  the  opposition  line,  so  did  not  have  a  chance 
to  meet  him.  Eli  Perkins  you  cheerfully  remember, 
and  I  have  given  a  very  definite  description  of  an 
interview,  in  another  part  of  this  work. 

REPRESENTATIVE  MEN 

of  New  York,  New  Orleans,  Rochester,  Buffalo 
Pittsburgh,  Cleveland  and  Chicago,  respectively, 
who  occupy  cottages,  etc.,  at  the  Thousand  Islands 
during  the  summer,  should  be  mentioned  here,  but 
space  alone  prevents.  This  little  volume  is  published 
expressly  for  Tourists  who  travel,  and  if  it  becomes 
large,  burdensome  or  cumben  jme,  it  is  useless  for 
what  it  is  designed,  as  a  descriptive   book  of  the  St. 


ii 


I'lM 


H 


'm 


3^ 

Lawrence  River.  I  therefore  cannot  lose  si^ht  of 
this  fact,  and  must  content  myself  with  publishing  a 
book  that  will  contain  about  i8o  or  200  pages. 

H.  H.  Warner,  of  Rochester,  N.  Y.;  George  M. 
Pullman,  Chicago  ;  W.  J.  Lewis,  H.  A.  Laughlin,  G. 
T.  Rafferty,  J.  S.  Laney,  of  Pittsburgh  ;  J.  C.  Covert, 
Ex-Mayor  Rose  and  Mr.  J.  M.  Curtis,  of  Cleveland, 
Ohio  ;  Judge  Labatt,  N.  O.  ;  C.  J.  Hudson,  of  New- 
York  ;  Judge  Thomas  Troy,  of  Brooklyn  ;  Hon.  R. 
A.  Livingston,  N.  Y. ;  M.  B.  Bettman,  of  New  York  ; 
John  Lowery,  of  New  York  ;  L.  G.  Souen,  Mr,  J.  W, 
White,  of  White  Plains ;  H.  R.  Clark  and  family  of 
Jersey  City  ;  Royal  E.  Deane,  of  New  York  ;  last  but 
not  least,  my  solid  friend  Col.  T.  G.  Carnes,  of 
Gainsville,  Texas,  a  man  after  my  own  heart,  and 
weight  as  well.  He  says  he  enjoys  himself  more 
at  Alexandria  Bay,  and  can  keep  his  three  hundred 
and  ten  pounds  cooler,  than  at  any  other  resort  in 
A^rierica,  and  when  you  are  about  to  select  a  summer 
home  think  of  me  and  my  three  hundred  and  thirty- 
three  pounds,  and  after  passing  sixteen  years  on  the 
St.  Lawrence  I  have  not  seen  over  two  days  in  any 
summer  that  would  cause  me,  through  heat,  to  wilt 
my  shirt  collar,  which  is  the  best  test  the  heat  or 
perspiration  can  have  upon  a  fat  man.  Think  of  this, 
and  when  you  want  a  cool  place  come  to  our  island 
home. 

THE   PEOPLE   WE    MEET  AT   THE 
THOUSAND  ISLANDS. 

Visitors  going  to  the  Thousand  Islands  will  strike 
the  river  either  at  Kingston,  Cape  Vincent,  Gan- 
anoqua  or  Clayton.     The  first  of  the  summer  resorts 


31 


i^ht  of 
shing  a 

»rge  M. 
lilin,  G. 
Covert, 
;veland, 
3f  New 
Ion.   R. 
7  York  ; 
r.  J.  W. 
imily  of 
last  but 
rnes,    of 
irt,    and 
If   more 
hundred 
-esort  in 
summer 
i  thirty- 
s  on  the 
s  in  any 
,  to   wilt 
heat    or 
I  of  this, 
ar  island 


rHE 

11  strike 
It,  Gan- 
r  resorts 


WcM 


after  leaving  Clayton  is  Round  Island,  which  is 
occupied  by  the  Baptists.  The  Hotel  has  been 
enlarged,  refitted  and  refurnished  during  the  past 
winter  and  the  name  changed  to  Hotel  Frontenac, 
under  the  management  of  E.  D.  Dickinton,  but  the 
denominational  sectarian  barriers  have  been  removed 
the  same  as  at  each  of  the  other  resorts,  and  all 
Christians,  of  whatever  sect,  or  no  sect,  are  welcome. 
Even  the  dude  can  revel  in  his  peculiarity.  The  next 
point  is  Grennell's  Island  Park,  where  is  located  a 
very  nice  hotel  and  a  number  of  fine  cottages. 
Beyond  is  Thousand  Island  Park.  This  is  occupied 
by  the  Methodists,  and  they  welcome  everyone, 
except  on  Sundays,  when  no  persons  are  allowed  to 
land  on  the  island. 

The  Fine  View  House,  Central  Park,  and  Edge- 
wood  Park,  have  no  religious  proclivities  known  to 
me,  but  "  Solomon  Isaacs"  would  not  be  admitted  at 
Edgewood  Park  unless  he  would  swear  that  he  was  a 
"Quaker." 

Westminster  Park  was  founded  by  the  Presby- 
terians, and  is  occupied  by  them  and  their  friends. 
Summerland  by  the  Universalists  and  their  friends. 

Alexander  Bay  is  cosmopolitan,  where  everybody 
is  welcome  and  can  stay  as  long  as  they  behave  them- 
selves and  pay  their  board. 

Now,  dear  reader,  imagine  the  Baptists,  Methodists, 
Presbyterians,  Universalists  and  all  their  friends 
combined,  and  now  if  you  want  a  summer  of  pleasure 
without  any  baneful  influences,  you  wouldn't  miss  it 
in  securing  the  Thousand  Islands  for  your  summer 
home,  where  there  are  no  bad  people  whatever,  such 
as  drunkards,  loafers,  tramps,  people  of  bad  repute, 
male  or  female,  and  if  they  should  drift  in  they  would 


i 


r 


32 

receive  a  cool  reception  among  the  people  of  the 
Thousand  Islands.  It  would  not  require  a  Pinkerton 
or  any  other  detective  to  select  from  among  those 
Christian  people  or  their  friends  any  bad  character, 
but  they  ocme,  nevertheless,  though  their  stay  is 
short. 

CREDIT  TO  WHOM  CREDIT  IS  DUE. 

While  we  have  spoken  very  pleasantly  of  the  epi- 
sode of  H.  H.  Warner  and  George  M.  Pullman  ;  of 
their  returning  to  their  respective  islands  and 
expending  over  a  half  a  million  of  dollars  in  beauti- 
fying them,  after  wandering  from  one  end  of  the 
world  almost  to  the  other  in  search  of  comfort, 
proving  conclusively  that  we  have  the  finest  watering 
place  in  America  or  we  could  not  retain  such  men  as 
these,  I  must  say  a  few  words  in  justice  to  those  who 
remained  with  us  during  their  absence  ;  who  bore  the 
burden  and  heat  of  the  day  and  lavishly  spent  their 
money  in  fitting  up  their  islands  to  make  the  Thou- 
sand Islands  what  they  now  are.  Among  those  peo- 
ple I  will  mention  A.  B.  Pullman,  C.  B.  Marsh,  H. 
R.  Heath,  Royal  E.  Dean,  E.  W.  Dewey,  C.  H.  and 
W.  B.  Hayden,  J.  H.  Oliphant,  A.  J.  Beckwith,  A. 
E.  Clark,  H.  A.  Laughlin,  C.  E.  Hill,  Hon.  W.  G. 
Rose,  and  J.  M.  Curtis. 

THE  WHY  NOT! 

I  am  asked  almost  everyday  why  the  Canadians  do 
not  occupy  the  islands  in  their  channel  of  the  river 
the  same  as  the  Americans  do.  The  only  answer  I 
can  give  is,  that  the  American  comes  here  to  rough 
it,  fish  and  enjoy  himself  during  the  summer  vacation 
and  the  Canadians  have  it  rough  enough  the  year 
round,  so  do  not  have  to  come. 


33 


BOYS  ON  A  STEAMER. 

Here  is  a  genuine.  His  parents  are  with  him  ;  he 
cannot  keep  still  ;  he  wants  chiefly  to  break  his  neck 
or  fall  overboard,  or  to  get  crushed  by  the  walking- 
beam  ;  he  has  been  twice  dragged  fri^m  the  steps 
leading  to  the  walking-beam  used  by  the  assistant 
engineer  for  lubricating  purposes;  he  would  like  to 
get  in  the  paddle  boxes,  has  talked  every  officer  on 
board  to  death,  and  is  now  trying  his  best  to  worry 
the  deck  hands.  How  curiously  constructed  is  a  real 
bcY,  to  go  whither  he  should  not,  and  especially 
where  his  anxious  mother  most  fears  he  will  go  ;  he 
is  now  doing  his  best  to  spoil  his  parents'  trip.  We 
can  leave  him  for  a  moment  ;  he  won'n  thig  in  his 
endeavor  to  get  into  trouble  or  to  make  his  parents 
miserable. 

This  is  a  smaller  boy — not  yet  out  of  his  petticoats, 
but  very  active;  he,  too,  has  with  him  an  anxious 
mother ;  he  has  found  another  boy — a  strange  boy,  of 
tiie  same  size  and  sex  ;  they  have  become  acquainted  ; 
the  strange  boy  is  allowed  by  his  parents  to  roam 
about  the  boat  at  will  ;  he  invites  the  nice  little  boy  to 
roam  also;  he  wants  him  to  roam  as  near  the  walking- 
beam  as  possible  ;  he  has  roamed  there  before  himself 
and  escaped  ;  he  tells  the  nice  little  boy  how  cunning 
it  is  to  come  near  being  crushed;  the  nice  little  boy's 
mother  forbids  any  roaming  at  all  ;  she  looks  with 
disfavor  on  the  strange  boy  ;  but  the  strange  boy 
continues  to  hang  around;  he  knows,  so  does  the 
nice  boy,  together  they  can  fool  any  one  mother  ; 
united  they  stand,  divided  they  fall  ;  now  the  nice 
boy  edges  away  from  the  side  of  his  mother,  for  her 


m 


34 

energies  are  momentarily  concentrated  on  the  set  of 
her  bonnet  and  the  nice  looking  gentleman  at  the 
other  end  of  ihe  saloon  who  is  taking  side  glances  at 
her  through  the  mirror.  Now  the  nice  boy  gets 
farther  away;  they  are  on  the  forbidden  part  of  the 
deck,  near  the  walking-beam.  It  is  great  fun.  Now 
the  cross  man  who  keeps  order  on  the  deck  drives 
them  away.  They  go  to  the  news  agent's  stand  and 
help  themselves  to  anything  on  the  table  when  he  is 
not  looking.  They  are  now  running  in  and  out  of 
the  state  rooms,  where  the  passengers  have  gone  to 
take  a  little  rest,  getting  in  everybody's  way;  it  is  a 
wonder  they  haven't  been  killed  twenty  times.  It  is 
great  fun  for  the  boys,  but  almost  death  to  the 
passengers.  And  the  mother  is  still  so  occupied  with 
her  bonnet  and  the  dude  who  has  made  a  mash  or 
favorable  impression  upon  her  that  she  has  not  missed 
her  nice  little  boy. 


SIR  JOHN  A.  Mcdonald, 

who  is  Canada's  prime  minister,  has  been  a  passenger 
upon  the  boats,  two  and  three  times  during  each 
season,  until  his  face  became  a  very  familiar  one  to 
me,  and  I  must  say  that  it  is  as  jolly  looking  as  my 
own  and  about  as  expressive  ;  while  his  is  a  Roman 
nose,  mine  is  a  pug.  I  remember  his  first  trip  down, 
after  his  election  to  the  premiership,  and  my  saying 
to  him  :  "  Now  we  have  a  change  in  politics  and  in 
government,  I  shall  expect,  of  course,  a  position 
under  the  new  government."  Sir  John  A.  remarked  : 
"  Yes,  you  shall  have  it.  I  shall  make  a  change.  We 
will  have  the  rivers  run  the  other  way  so  you  can  be 
utilized   day  and   night  to  make  it  pleasant  for  the 


hrl 


35 

people  without  extra  pay  or  allowance."  When  giving 
my  description  of  Barnhart's  Island  and  the  Canadian 
Channel  passing  around,  the  settlement  of  the  treaty 
of  1812,  and  the  ratification  of  the  same  by  Lord  Asli- 
burton  and  Daniel  Webster,  he  asked  me  if  those 
were  facts  and  I  said,  "  Yes,  and  I  am  astonished  to 
think  that  you  would  have  to  ask  me  about  such  an 
important  point  and  treaty."  When  nearing  Montreal 
I  had  finished  giving  a  description  of  places  and 
points  of  interest,  and  had  described  Bonsecours 
market  when  he  told  me  that  an  Irish  friend  of  his 
pronounced  it  different,  he  called  it  "  Bone  Scowered 
market.'' 

WHISTLES. 


i 

I 


■| 


Very  few  people  can  imagine  the  different  whistles 
maintained  on  the  steamers  plying  the  St.  Lawrence 
River,  but  it  is  a  fact  that  each  steamer  has  a  peculiar 
whistle,  and  many  people  can  tell  the  name  of  the 
steamer  by  its  whistle.  Take,  for  instance,  the 
Steamer  Armstrong,  it  has  a  very  peculiar  whistle, 
and  its  first  impression  causes  some  to  laugh,  some 
to  cry  and  others  to  run  for  the  paregoric  bottle. 
Her  whistle  will  make  more  noise  and  cause  more 
comment  than  any  other  steamboat  on  the  river.  The 
Van  Horn's  whistle  is  more  pleasant  and  musical  in 
its  tone,  and  after  listening  to  her  for  a  moment  relief 
is  so  apparent  that  you  feel  as  if  you  had  secured  the 
paregoric  bottle  and  was  enjoying  its  soothing 
influences.  The  new  Island  Wanlerer,  said  the 
Captain,  will  have  a  whistle  different  from  all  others. 
You  can  stay  at  the  Bay  and  hear  hor  whistle  when 
we  are  at  Echo  Point. 


)  1 


mt-i 


(< 


36 


GOING  THAT  WAY." 


Captain  Sinclair,  of  tlic  Steamer  Passport,  was  in 
a  f(jg  early  one  mornine;  just  before  leaving  King- 
ston and  one  of  the  passengers  remarked  to  him  that 
it  was  clear  above,  to  which  the  captain  ansvvered, 
"Yes,  but  unless  we  iiave  a  blow-up  we  will  not  go 
that  way." 

A  GOOD  ONE  ON  CAPTAIN  ESTES. 

Everyone  familiar  with  the  St.  Lawrence  River  will 
surely  recognize  the  name  of  Estes,  as  it  is  one  that 
has  been  connected  with  the  river  for  the  past  forty 
years.  Some  one  of  the  Utica,  N.  V.,  daily  papers 
mentioned  Captain  Estes  of  the  Steamer  St.  Law- 
rence as  a  man  extremely  polite  and  scrupulously 
neat  in  his  dress,  and  very  attentive  to  those  who  are 
passengers  on  liis  boat  ;  a  man  who  does  not  chew, 
smoke  or  drink,  nor  tell  fish  stories.  An  old  gentle- 
man, accompanied  by  l>is  wife  and  daughter,  having 
heard  of  the  captain's  reputation,  remarked  that  he 
would  like  to  introduce  him  to  his  daughter.  The 
gallant  captain,  who  looks  very  young  for  his  age, 
answered,  "  No,  thanks,  I  am  a  married  man." 

THE  PHARMACEUTICAL  ASSOCIATION 

of  the  State  of  New  York  held  their  annual  conven- 
tion at  the  Thousand  Islands  two  years  ago,  and  when 
they  made  their  excursion  on  the  Island  Wanderer 
around  the  islands  I  accompanied  them  and  delineated 
the  points  of  interest  on  the  trip.  Just  before  arriving 
at  Central  Park  they  noticed  the  large  twelve-foot 
letters  "C.  P.,"  which  are  used  for  illuminating  posts 


^ 


37 

at  nitrlit,  there  being  hung  upon  the  letters  one 
himdred  lanterns.  Some  one  asked  what  the  "C.  P.'* 
stood  for.  I  answered  Central  Park,  when  one  of 
the  members,  tlie  president's  wife,  I  think,  answered 
'"C.  P.'  means  chemically  pure.  I  never  knew  it 
to  mean  anything  else  but  that."  This  biographical 
incident  is  intended  for  druggists  only. 

APING   CUSTOMS,   MANNERS,   ETC.,   OF 

THE  ENGLISH. 

This  is  done  to  a  great  extent,  not  only  in  Canada, 
but  I  am  sorry  to  say  in  Free  America,  better  known 
as  the  U.  S.  I  cannot  find  any  fault  with  the  average 
Canadian,  who  is,  as  it  were,  governed  by  Queen 
\''ictoria,  and  must  have  some  reverence  for  royalty, 
in  the  aping  of  their  manners  and  customs,  but  in 
this  land,  where  we  have  an  abundance  of  Queens, 
Princes,  Lords  and  Sovereigns  who  are  not  flattered 
by  titles,  but  bear  their  honors  meekly,  all  are  royal 
born  and  bred.  Speaking  of  titles  reminds  me  that 
ai  home  I  am  plain  Edward  F.  Babbage,  or  "  Phat 
lit^y"  (I  spell  it  with  "  Ph  "  because  it  does  not  sound 
so  greasy),  but  the  moment  I  leave  home,  say  for  a 
trip  through  the  South,  I  am  called  Captain  for  the 
first  few  hundred  miles,  then  a  little  way  on  it 
becomes  Colonel,  and  when  I  get  to  Georgia  it  is 
Major;  in  South  Carolina  it  is  Judge  or  General, 
until  I  get  to  Florida,  and  I  have  heard  them  say 
there,  "Great  God,  is  that  you?"  But  we  diverge. 
Returning  to  the  aping  of  the  manners  of  Princess 
Louise,  I  wish  to  say  right  here  that  I  firmly  believe 
that  it  did  the  Canadian  people  a  great  amount  of  good, 
but  fail  to  see  where  the  people  of  the  United  States 


n 


38 


could  be  benefitod.  I  was  told  that  at  Kingston  the 
Princess  asked  for  her  strawberries  in  a  box  with  the 
hulls  on,  and  when  placed  before  her  she  took  them 
up  by  the  stem  between  the  thumb  and  finger  and  bit 
the  berry  off  and  placed  the  hull  on  the  plate.  Now 
everybody  does  the  same  ;  previous  to  her  visit  they 
used  to  hull  and  wash  them  before  placing  them  or 
the  table.  The  same  with  grapes.  They  used  to 
wash  them  in  a  goblet  of  water  at  the  table  before 
eating  them  ;  now  they  take  the  grape  between  the 
thumb  and  finger,  press  it  to  the  lips  and  squeeze 
gently,  and  juice  as  well  as  insides  are  soon  on  the 
way  to  digestion,  and  the  skin  laid  away  on  the  plate 
as  the  Princess  did.  Asparagus — it  is  almost  pain- 
ful for  me  to  see  Canadians  eat  in  as  many  ways  as 
there  were  people  at  the  table,  in  fact,  no  two  ate  it 
alike  until  after  the  Princess  came  ;  now  everybody 
takes  it  by  the  hard  green  end,  between  thumb  and 
linger,  and  putting  it  into  the  mouth,  close  the  teeth 
down  upon  it  and  draw  it  gently  from  the  mouth, 
leaving  all  that  is  digestible  within,  and  the  remainder 
is  laid  on  the  plate.  The  Princess  once  took  a  walk 
through  her  kitchen  at  Rideau  Hall,  Ottawa,  took 
the  vegetable  cook  to  task  for  washing  fresh  picked 
peas  from  the  vine  that  had  just  been  shelled,  saying- 
it  was  nonsense,  if  your  hands  are  clean,  to  wash  a 
virgin  pea. 


M 


(( 


WE  ARE  SEVEN." 


And  they  were  in  fact,  as  well  as  every  other  way, 
seven  of  the  finest  gentlemen  1  ever  met.  They  passed 
down  the  St.  Lawrence  River  its  full  length  from 
Kingston  to  the  Gulf,  bent  on  sight-seeing  and  pleas- 


39 

lire,  and  when  you  read  over  the  names  you  will 
know  that  each  received  his  full  share  :  John  H. 
Rochester,  Charles  E.  Fitch,  George  H.  Humphrey, 
D.  M.  Dewey,  William  F.  Peck,  Charles  P.  Boswell, 
Alexander  Thompson. 

WE  CALL  THEM  TRAMPS. 

During  the  Centennial  year  mr.ny  foreigners  were 
always  found  among  the  list  of  passengers  from  eveiy 
country.  The  proverbial  English  tourist  cannot  be 
mistaken  by  any,  but  this  year,  1876,  we  had  many 
wlio  were  too  green  or  unsophisticated  to  be  in  that 
class.  Now  this  truthful  occurrence  which  I  am 
about  to  relate  is  original  and  occurred  upon  one  of 
the  Richelieu  &  Ontario  Navigation  Company's  line 
of  boats.  The  Englishman  was  relating  to  his  newly 
found  friend  his  opinion  of  the  United  States,  etc.,  in 
his  own  peculiar  style.  "  Hi  don't  like  this  blarsted 
counLry,  you  know  !"  "Wny,"  said  his  friend,  "what 
fault  can  you  find  with  America?"  "Oh,  Hi've  been  all 
over  it,  you  know,  and  can't  ^nd  any  sawciety  there." 
"Society,"  said  his  friend,  "what  do  you  mean  by 
society?"  "  Oh,  dear  me,  you  have  no  gentlemen  or 
gentlemen's  sons  in  h'America."  "  Why,  what  do  you 
mean  by  gentlemen  and  gentlemen's  sons  ?"  "  Oh  ! 
Hi  mean  gentlemen  who  never  did  any  work,  you 
know,  nor  their  sons,  either."  "  You  make  a  mistake 
there,  my  worthy  friend,  we  have  millions  of  them 
here,  but  we  call  them  tramps,  and  1  have  often  thought 
it  the  best  definition  to  a  tramp  I  ever  heard,  for  if  there 
are  gentlemen  and  their  sons  here  who  never  did  any 
work  they  will  soon  make  good  timber  for  tramps,  if 
they  are  not  already." 


■  t 


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Hi  11 


(( 


40 


NOT  A  GEORGE  WASH." 


He  had  told  several  very  improbable  stories  bor- 
dering upon  the  Eli  Perkins  order,  and  then  remarked 
to  a  friend  that  he  could  not  tell  a  lie.  But  the  friend 
replied  that  he  could  the  moment  he  heard  it,  and  to 
the  best  of  his  judgment  he  had  told  several. 

ROUTE    OF     THE    STEAMER    "ISLAND 

WANDERER." 

The  dock  from  which  the  "  Island  Wanderer"  leaves 
for  her  daily  excursions  around  the  Islands,  morning 
at  8,  afternoons  at  2:15,  is  in  front  of  Cornwall 
Brothers'  Stone  Store,  where  tickets  and  all  informa- 
tion may  be  had  relative  to  any  route  by  either  rail  or 
boat,  to  any  part  of  the  globe.  Taking  your  position 
upon  any  part  of  the  boat  that  will  allow  you  to  face 
the  bow,  upon  your  right  will  be  Hart's  Island, 
Westminster  Park  Dock  and  Freight  House,  which  is 
located  at  the  lower  end  of  Wells'  Island — this  island 
ten  miles  long  by  four  wide.  A  little  above,  hid  by 
a  cluster  of  trees,  is  the  residence  of  John  Winslow, 
next  is  Imperial  Isle,  owned  by  Mr.  J.  C  Singer, 
of  Chicago,  111.  The  next  is  Linlithgow,  owned 
by  the  Hon.  R.  A.  Livingston,  of  New  York.  The 
next  cottage  on  bluff  is  owned  by  Miss  Lucy  J. 
Bullock — the  cottage  a  little  above  is  owned  by 
Prof.  A.  G.  Hopkins.  Next  is  Florence  Island. 
Near  the  water  edge  is  the  boat  house  of  St.  Elmo, 
and  the  conspicuous  slate-colored  cottage  above  and 
wind-mill  below,  is  owned  by  Mr.  N.  W.  Hunt,  of 
Brooklyn,  N.  Y.  It  is  presumed  you  have  taken  in 
the  above  panorama  before  starting.       Immediately 


4T 


after  starting,  on  the  left,  you  pass  the  Thousand 
Island  House  and  Little  Staples  Island — around  the 
point  i?  Otter  Creek,  Edgewood  Park  and  Martin's 
Cottage.  The  Edgewood  Park  Company  have  erected 
an  elegant  hotel  and  several  cottages  are  being  built 
by  the  members  of  the  company,  who  form  a  sort  of 
social  club  for  their  families  and  friends,  care  being 
exercised  in  the  selection  of  members  as  well  as 
visitors,  and  if  the  project  is  carried  out,  as  it  is  con- 
templated, this  Edgewood  Park  will  be  the  summer 
home  of  some  of  the  best  people  in  America.  On 
the  right  is  Friendly  Island,  containing  cottage,  boat 
house  and  lookout,  owned  by  E.  VV.  Dewey,  of  New 
York.  Next  above  is  Nobby  Island,  owned  by  H.  R. 
Heath,  of  New  York.  Opposite,  on  the  left,  is  Cherry 
Island  (the  reason  they  call  it  "Cherry  "is  because 
they  raise  their  own  strawberries  from  which  they 
make  their  celebrated  custard  pies).  The  Island  con- 
tains Ingleside  Cottage  and  Melrose  Lodge,  owned 
by  Mr.  A.  B.  Pullman  and  C.  B.  Marsh,  of  Chicago, 
111.,  also  J.  T.  Easton's  Villa,  called  Stuyvesant  Cot- 
tage, and  Rev.  George  Rockwell's  Cottage.  Opposite 
on  the  right,  is  the  famous  Pullman  Island,  "Castle 
Rest,''  where  George  M.  Pullman  spent  one  hundred 
and  fifty  thousand  dollars  last  season  on  buildings, 
etc.,  and  presented  the  whole  Island  and  surroundings 
to  his  mother  on  her  eighty-fourth  birthday.  Also, 
where  Gen.  U.  S,  Grant  visited  in  1872.  Next,  West 
and  Safe  Point,  which  are  on  Wells'  Island.  On  the 
left  is  the  famous  Devil's  Rock  and  Oven  of  historic 
fame.  It  is  said  that  here  is  where  Bill  Johnson  hid 
himself,  as  there  is  an  opening  in  the  rock  large 
enougji  for  the  usual  fishing  boat  to  enter  with  its 
contents  and  be  completely  hid   from  view.     This  is 


» . 


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42 


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what  is  called  the  Oven,  and  it  resembles  the  old  form 
of  Dutch  ovens.  Beyond,  on  the  left  near  the  main 
shore,  is  Cuba,  owned  by  W.  F.  Story,  of  Buffalo, 
N.  Y.  Opposite,  on  the  right,  is  Craig's  Side,  owned 
by  H.  A.  Laughlin,  of  Pittsburgh.  Next,  on  the  left, 
is  Hill's  Island  and  boat  house,  owned  by  C.  E.  Hill, 
of  Chicago,  111.  Next,  on  the  left,  is  Warner's  Island- 
i)n  the  right  is  Palisade  Point,  owned  by  A.  J.  Beck- 
with.  Next,  on  the  left,  is  Comfort  Island,  owned  by 
Mr.  A.  E.  Clark,  of  the  Chicago  Stock  Exchange 
Mr.  Clark  has  lavishly  expended  a  large  amount  of 
money  for  "Comfort."  It  is  joined  to  Neh-Mahben, 
meaning  twin  lakes  or  islands,  owned  by  J.  H. 
Oliphant,  of  New  York.  On  the  right  is  Louisiana 
Point,  owned  by  Judge  Ln  Batte,  of  New  Orleans, 
La.  I  desire  to  apologize  for  stating  in  a  previous 
edition  that  Judge  La  Batte  was  dead.  He  came  to 
death's  door,  and  was  so  low  that  his  physician  had 
called  his  family  to  his  bedside  to  witness  his  last 
moments  when  he  motioned  to  his  son  to  come  near, 
and  drawing  his  ear  down  close  to  his  lips,  he  whis- 
pered, "  Take  me  to  my  summer  home  on  the  St. 
Lawrence."  They  started  from  New  Orleans,  La., 
the  next  day  and  he  arrived  at  Louisiana  Point  in 
July,  and  the  day  of  this  writing,  August  20th,  he 
had  gained  sixteen  pounds  in  flesh  and  was  feeling 
quite  strong  and  happy — a  gentleman,  living  like  the 
*' Thane  of  Cawdor."  Opposite,  on  the  left,  is  Kep- 
pler  Point,  Buena  Vista  Lodge,  owned  by  a  gentleman 
from  Cleveland,  O.,  who  purchased  it  last  season. 
On  the  right  is  Seven  Isles,  owned  by  Gen.  Bradley 
Winslow.  Mclntyre's  cottage,  "  Photo,"  is  in  Dins- 
more  Bay,  next  to  Seven  Isles.  On  the  left  is  an 
Indian    Camp  and  Allegheny  Point,  owned   by  J.  S. 


^'i.^ 


43 


of 


LarxCy,  of  Pittsburgh,  Pa.  A  little  above  is  Gypsy 
Island,  owned  by  J.  M.  Curtis,  of  Cleveland,  O.  Rose 
Island  is  connected  with  Gypsy  Island  by  a  beautiful 
rustic  bridge.  Rose  Island  and  cottage  is  owned  by 
W.  G.  Rose,  Ex-Mayor  of  Cleveland,  O.  Opposite, 
on  the  right,  is  Shady  Covert, a  beautiful  villa  owned 
by  J.  C.  Covert,  Editor  of  the  Cleveland  Leader,  On 
the  right  is  Point  Vivian,  a  delightful  spot  occupied 
by  n,  stock  company,  mostly  f*"om  Evans'  Mills,  N.  Y. 
Opposite,  on  the  right,  is  Island  Royal,  owned  by 
Royal  E.  Deane,  of  New  York.  Behind  Royal  is 
Holton's  Cottage,  also  owned  by  Royal  E.  Deane, 
Above,  on  the  right,  is  Hill  Crest,  owned  by  General 
Shields,  of  Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Nothing  of  interest  right  or  left  for  the  space  ot  a 
mile  except  Lindner's  Island,  until  we  come  to  Cen- 
tral park  (Woodbine  and  Crest  Cottages  are  located 
here),  where  we  make  our  first  stop  for  passengers. 
The  next  island  is  owned  by  J.  F.  Moffit,  of  Water- 
town,  N.  Y. — Brown's  Bay  on  the  right  and  Swan's 
Bay  on  the  left.  A  little  above  on  the  left  is  Little  Cal- 
umet, owned  by  J.  D.  Green,  of  Boston,  Mass.  Above 
on  the  main  shore,  is  the  cottage  of  J.  B.  Collins. 
Opposite,  on  the  right,  may  be  seen  the  celebrated 
Limburger  Cheese  Factory.  Opposite,  on  'he  main 
shore,  left,  is  the  farm  and  house  of  Capt.  Jack  ;  the 
mill  and  dock  somewhat  dilapidated.  Opposite  is 
Ish..nd  Blanch  and  cottage,  E.  D.  Buckingham, 
owner.  A  little  opposite  is  Paul's  Dock  and  Sunny 
Sian,  with  three  other  villas ;  also  a  dairy  farm, 
which,  from  its  fine  looking  barns,  sheds  and  house, 
must  be  considered  very  prosperous.  Peel's  Dock 
having  being  rebuilt,  was  memorable  as  the  spot 
where  the  vessel   "  Sir  Robert  Peel  "  was  burned  in 


\. 


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44 


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retaliation  for  the  "Caroline"  being  sent  over  Niagara 
Falls.  Next  on  the  right,  "Jolly  Oaks,"Twin  CottP^e 
Flome,  Pleasant  View  and  San  Souci's,  four  cottages 
and  dock.  The  pretty  little  summer  house  on  the  Island 
passed,  we  arrive  at  Fern  Cliff  cottages  and  dock.  A 
large  stone  cottage  was  erected  here  two  seasons  ago, 
called  Hiawatha  Cottage.  This  is  for  sale.  Beautiful 
villas,  camps  and  cottages  line  the  banks  on  the  right, 
among  wliich  is  Fair  View,  owned  by  Mr.  Butterfield, 
of  Redwood,  N.  Y.,  until  we  arrive  at  Fine  View. 
Opposite,  on  the  left,  is  Fisher's  Landing,  Robinson 
Island,  Johnson's  Light  and  Cottage,  Hemlock,  Cedar 
and  other  Islands  around  the  point,  and  we  come  in 
sight  of  Thousand  Island  Park — located  at  the  upper 
end  of  Wells'  Island,  owned  and  controlled  by  the 
Methodists  ;  the  neatest,  most  orderly  and  attractive 
resort  amono:  the  Islands.  Something:  should  be  said 
here  regarding  this,  the  most  celebrated  spot  among 
the  Thousand  Islands.  As  it  is  impossible,  from  my 
limited  knowledge,  to  do  the  subject  justice,  and,  as  I 
cannot  steal,  clip,  borrow  or  plagiarize  from  my 
other  work,  I  can  only  say,  stay  over  one  day,  or  until 
the  boat  comes  back,  and  look  over  this  delightful 
spot. 

Again,  on  our  way  we  pass  the  head  of  Wells' 
Island,  and  have  a  view  on  the  right  of  the  finest 
avenue  in  the  Park,  a  long  line  of  boat-houses,  and  a 
number  of  steam  yachts,  sail  and  fishing  boats,  wind- 
mills, jtc,  etc.  Beyond,  on  the  right  in  the  distance, 
is  Hemlock  Island  and  Hotel,  owned  by  Mr.  Garrison, 
of  Syracuse.  The  large  body  of  water  on  the  right 
is  Eel  Bay.  On  the  right  is  Grennell's  Island  and 
House,  where  the  boat  stops  for  passengers;  beyond, 
on  the  right,  is  Otsego  Point  and  cottages.     We  next 


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45 

pass  two  cottages,  after  which  Pickton  Isle.  Next  is 
ttie  Burg  group  ;  beyond  are  the  Packingham  Islands  ; 
in  the  distance  on  the  left  is  Round. Island  Park  and 
Hotel;  many  magnificent  cottages  line  the  shores  all 
around  the  island.  This  is  a  favorite  resort  of  the 
Baptists.  On  the  right  is  Little  Round  Island,  and 
on  the  left  in  the  bay  is  Washington  Island  ;  opposite 
on  the  right  is  the  celebrated  Calumet  Island,  owned 
by  Chas.  G.  Emery,  of  Old  Judge  cigarette  fame. 
In  the  distance,  front,  is  Clayton.  The  depot  and  the 
docks  of  the  R.,  W.  &  O.  R.  R.  are  located  here. 
Opposite  is  Gov.  Alvord's  Island.  After  leaving 
Clayton,  on  the  left  you  will  have  a  view  of  Prospect 
Park  and  Rill,  a  delightful  resort.  Next  on  the  left, 
as  we  turn,  is  Blanket  Island,  on  the  right  is  Grind- 
stone and  Club  Island;  next  on  the  right  is  Whiskey 
Island,  on  the  left  opposite  is  Ambler's  Point;  beyond 
is  the  celebrated  Wolf  or  Long  Island,  the  largest  of 
the  Thousand  Islands,  being  twenty-one  miles  long  ; 
next  is  Hickory  Island.  We  now  cross  the  dividing 
line,  after  which  many  islands  appear,  all  sizes  and 
shapes,  until  we  come  to  Ross  Dick  Island  ;  beyond 
is  Burnt  Island;  light  in  the  distance  is  Red  Horse 
light;  opoosite,  on  the  right,  is  Kalaria,  owned  by 
Prof.  Castle  of  Toronto,  Canada,  and  occupied  by 
Wilmot  Castle  and  his  brother  Arthur,  and  faniilies, 
this  season;  Wilmot  Castle  &  Co.  of  Rochester,  N.Y., 
— the  manufacturers  of  the  Arnold  automatic  cooker'. 
We  have  used  one  in  our  family  for  the  past  five 
years,  and  I  think  more  of  it  than  I  do  of  "my  mother- 
in-law,"  and  she  was  one  of  the  best  women  that  ever 
lived. 


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AMONG  THE  ISLANDS. 

It  must  not  be  supposed  that  these  hundreds  of 
islands  are  all  occupied  and  have  cottages  on  them, 
or  laid  out  with  walks  or  fountains.  For  every 
island  that  has  a  house  on  it  there  are  perhaps  twenty 
that  have  none.  The  number  of  houses  are  increasing 
every  year,  and  I  think  that  in  time  nearly  every 
island  will  be  occupied  in  the  Canadian  Channel  as 
they  are  in  the  American.    We  next  arrive  at 

GANANOQUE. 

Here  the  captain  announces  a  stay  of  twenty -five 
minutes  for  refreshments,  remarking,  also,  that  it 
takes  twelve  minutes  to  walk  up  town  and  twelve 
minutes  back,  with  the  remainder  for  refresh,  which 
seems  to  my  mind  a  little  too  fresh.  Leaving 
Gananoque  on  time,  we  will  return  by  the  Canadian 
channel,  which  is  more  wild  and  picturesque,  as  far 
as  scenery  is  concerned,  although  not  one  island  or 
point  is  inhabited  here  to  one  in  the  American  channel. 
On  the  right  is  Kipp  Island.  Passing  many  beautiful 
islands  and  lighthouses,  we  arrive  at  Halstead's  Bay 
— after  passing  which  the  islands  come  thick  and  fast, 
all  sizes  and  shapes,  from  a  little  one  for  a  cent  to 
those  done  up  in  bunches,  like  asparagus,  and  you 
get  a  bunch  for  five.  We  pass  very  close  to  Ash 
Island,  so  near  that  moss  has  been  plucked  by  pas- 
sengers on  the  boat.  We  soon  arrive  at  Lind  Light, 
on  the  right,  and  are  coming  to  the  Fiddler's  Elbow. 
Lay  this  book  aside  at  this  point  and  feast  the  eye, 
for  no  writer  could  do  the  subject  of  a  description 
justice.  The  King  of  Dwarfs,  Gen.  Tom  Thumb  was 
a  passenger  on  the  Wanderer  one  day  when  he  asked 


47 


of 


the  captain  why  he  could  not  have  an  island.  The 
captain,  with  his  usual  generosity,  gave  him  one  just 
his  size,  and  to  commemorate  the  event  has  placed  a 
monument  there  to  his  memory.  We  soon  emerge 
from  our  land,  or  island-locked  channel,  and  approach 
Darling's  Dock.  The  dock  is  visible,  but  we  have 
never  seen  the  darling — after  which  comes  Echo 
Point,  where  you  can  hear  as  many  echoes  as  you  pay 
cents  fare.  Passing  a  farm-house  on  the  right,  we 
soon  arrive  on  the  left  of  Rockport  ;  here  you  will 
observe  we  have  but  two  seasons  of  the  year,  Ice  and 
Rock  ;  this  is  the  Rocky  season.  Turning  to  the  right, 
we  make  direct  for  Westminster  Park.  Looking 
backward  over  the  left  shoulder,  you  will  have  a  view 
of  Idlewild  and  Sport  Islands,  formerly  owned  by  the 
Packers,  of  Pennsylvania,  now  owned  by  H.  C. 
Wilber,  Pres.  of  the  Lehigh  Valley  R.  R.  &  Coal  Co. 
A  better  view  of  those  islands  may  be  obtained  after 
leaving  Westminister  Park  for  Alexandria  Bay.  After 
passing  the  point,  Hayden's  Island,  Fairyland  comes 
in  view.  The  little  island,  with  cottage,  is  owned  by 
Mr.  Hasbrock,  of  Ogdensburg,  N.  Y.,  called  Pike 
Island.  The  next  on  the  right  is  St.  John's  Island, 
owned  by  Judge  Donahue,  of  New  York.  The  next 
on  the  right  is  Manhattan  group,  owned  by  Judge 
Spencer  and  Hasbrock,  of  New  York.  A  wooden 
bridge  joins  them  together.  This  is  the  first  island 
inhabited  for  recreation,  and  was  bought  by  Seth 
Green,  the  fish  culturist  of  New  York  State  ;  on  the 
left  is  Long  Beach,  Anthony's  Point  (the  Ledge 
owned  by  C.  J.  Hudson,  of  New  York)  and  Bonnie 
Castle;  on  the  right  is  Dishler  and  Hart's  Island.  We 
next  arrive  at  Alexandria  Bay,  from  which  we  started 
almost  four  hours  ago. 


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48 


'*YES  !  A  GREAS-Y  STATUE." 

"  How  niucli  do  you  weigh  ?"  Well  I  am  asked  tliai 
questi(jn  many  times  every  day,  and  as  I  am  not  sen- 
sitive will  say  my  weight  is  three  hundred  and  thirty- 
three  pounds  in  the  shade,  just  one  pound  for  every 
mile  between  Toronto  and  Montreal  via  Grand  Trunk 
Railway.  The  reason  why  I  say  the  shade,  is  because 
there  has  never  been  raised  a  mathematician  with  the 
ability  to  compute  the  weight  of  a  grease  spot,  and 
were  I  compelled  to  remain  in  the  sun  very  long 
would  make  one,  and  do  not  care  to  mislead  people 
into  an  error.  The  fat  of  this  land  is  about  as 
unequally  distributed  as  the  wealth.  Tliose  who  ain't 
got  it  want  it;  those  who  have  it,  have  too  much.  I 
am  therefore  a  Vanderbilt  in  grease,  have  a  corner  in 
lard,  as  it  were. 

*'  DO  YOU  GO  OUT  FISHING?" 

Well,  not  often.  You  see,  this  ponderous  body  of 
mine  does  not  fit  the  average  fishing  boat.  My  fears 
are  not  all  bound  up  in  that  one  fact,  nor  in  the  satis- 
faction that  if  the  boat  should  upset  that  I  would  not 
sink,  but  the  fear  that  is  indelibly  photographed  upon 
my  mind,  that  as  I  would  float,  and  being  so  large, 
some  steamboat  captain  or  pilot  would  take  me  for 
an  island,  lay  alongside  and  let  the  passengers  off  for 
a  little  picnic  or  an  hour's  pleasure.     Think  of  it. 

YACHTING. 

Water — and  as  one  enthusiastic  writer  puts  it— -such 
water  I — is  abundant,  and  to  enjoy  this  water  in  a 
pensive  or  poetic   mood,  the  steam   yacht   should  be 


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49 


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brought  into  requisition.  Private  yachts  are  numer- 
ous and  elegant,  and  it  is  to  the  credit  of  the  owners 
that  they  are  not  niggardly  in  exhibiting  a  spirit  of 
u^enerobity  and  courtesy.  They  are  constantly  inviting 
individuals  and  parties  to  enjoy  the  exhilarating 
excitement  of  the  shooting  around  the  beautiful 
spots.  And  if  you,  dear  tourist,  have  no  friend  tliat 
invites  you  to  share  a  cushioned  seat  in  his  graceful 
fairy  like  craft,  then  go  to  Capt.  E.  \V.  Visger,  on  the 
Nnci  Island  IVanderer,  who  will  take  you  on  an  excur- 
sion among  the  Islands  that  you  will  gladly  recall  as  a 
cheerful  reminiscence  of  your  St.  Lawrence  excursion, 
for  the  opportunity  will  have  been  offered  to  bring 
within  the  range  of  your  vision  enchanting  scenes 
that  pen  is  notadequate  to  describe,  but  by  purchasing 
one  of  tlie  "  Phat  Boy's"  Picturesof  the  St.  Lawrence, 
you  will  be  possessor  of  the  only  correct  map,  a 
perfect  guide  to  the  river. 


(( 


WOULD  YOU  BELIEVE  IT?" 


A  gentleman  from  London  came  on  board  the  boat 
at  Kingston  one  morning,  ruslied  up  to  me  and  said, 
''  Mr.  Babbage,  how  do  you  do  !  Why,  you  cannot 
imagine  how  glad  I  am  to  see  you  !  Why,  do  know 
that  before  I  left  "  Home'  a  lady  invited  me  to  take 
tea  at  her  house,  and  when  I  told  her  I  was  coming  to 
America  she  never  stopped  talking  about  you  for  over 
two  hours  ;  it  is  a  great  relief  to  meet  you,  I  assure 
you."  Meeting  upon  the  street  one  afternoon,  a  very  fine 
looking  old  gentleman,  he  said,  "  Hold  on  a  moment, 
1  have  something  to  tell  you.  I  have  just  received  a 
letter  from  my  daughter  who  lives  in  Australia,  she 


50 

said  she  found  one  of  your  books  upon  the  table  at 
lier  friend's  house  where  she  was  visit! nj^,  so  she 
en(juired  liow  it  came  there.  'Why,  bless  your  soul, 
we  took  a  trip  with  liiin  down  the  St.  Lawrence  River 
and  he  made  it  pleasant  for  us  for  eight  hours  and  I 
would  ii(H  part  with  the   book   for  an    interest  in  the 


t  >j 


profits  of  the  '  new  version  '  or  revised  edition. 

A  lady  wrote  me  from  Trenton,  N.  J.  :  "  While  at 
Alexandria  Hay,  in  1883, 1  benight  a  copy  ofthe  '  Phat 
Boy's'  Delineations  (^f  the  St.  Lawrence  River  (I 
think  of  the  Author  from  the  picture  on  the  cover). 
Have  read  it  over  and  over  to  my  friends  until  '  > 
completely  worn  out,  can  you  forward  me  anotii^r 
copy  ?"  I  did  as  requested  and  at  the  same  time 
enquired  what  pleased  her  friends  most,  and  she  said 
in  reply,  that  it  was  all  good,  but  the  articles  upon 
myself  were  the  most  pleasing  to  her.  I  must,  there- 
fore, send  her  a  copy  of  this,  my  last  effort.  The 
latter  part  of  May  I  met  a  gentlemen  at  the  Sturte- 
vant  House,  New  York,  while  visiting  Mr.  J.  C. 
Matthews,  the  proprietor,  who  said,  "  how  do  you  do, 
Mr.  Babbage.  I  presume  you  do  not  remerber  me, 
but  while  at  the  Thousand  Islands  last  season,  and 
before  going  to  Montreal,  I  purchased  of  you  one  of 
your  books,  and  it  would  be  an  injustice  not  to  tell 
you  that  we  had  more  real  pleasure  and  profit  from 
its  perusal  than  any  one  thing  on  our  trip.  I  desire 
to  thank  you,  and  my  wife  would  do  the  same  were 
she  here.  The  book  is  almost  worn  out ;  more  than 
fifty  of  our  friends  have  read  it.  I  want  another 
copy ;  if  you  will  not  send  it,  I  will  come  to  Alexandria 
Bay  and  get  it." 


¥k 


5* 


H.  H.  WARNER  AND  GEO.  M.  PULLMAN. 

Two  of  niiturc's  noble  men.  Two  of  th«'  greatest 
benefactors  of  tlie  human  race.  Two  of  the  t^reatest 
men  born  in  New  York  State.  One  the  inventor  of 
tlie  celebrated  Pullman  Car  that  has  given  ease,  rest 
and  comfort  to  the  wliole  enlightened  world.  The 
other,  the  Warner's  Safe  Cure,  which  has  given  relief 
to  millions  of  sufferers  from  Kidney  and  Liver  disease. 

Each  in  turn  are  spending  a  small  portion  of  their 
immense  wealth  in  building  suitable  cottages  upon 
their  respective  islands, "Warner's"  and  "Pullman's,'' 
which  they  expect  to  occupy  during  the  coming 
season.  When  such  men  as  they  are,  do  what  they 
intend,  it  will  prove  to  the  world  that  the  Thousand 
Islands,  as  a  watering  place,  has  no  equal,  and  by 
next  season  we  may  look  for  a  "boom"  beyond  our 
greatest  expectation. 


4 


THE  LOTUS  SEEKER. 

This  tidy  little  craft  made  its  first  appearance  on 
the  St.  Lawrence  two  seasons  ago  and  is  owned  by  Mr. 
Holden,  of  Buffalo,  N.  Y.,  who  has  a  very  beautiful 
cottage  at  Thousand  Island  Park.  Many  timesduring 
the  season  she  could  be  seen  plying  in  and  out  among 
the  islands,  comfortably  filled  with  invited  guests  of 
her  owner  and  passing  every  thing  moved  by  steam 
power.  I  felt  quite  badly  one  day  while  taking  a 
ride  upon  one  of  the  "cracked"  yachts,  to  be  passed 
so  quickly  by  the  "Lotus  Seeker,"  that  I  did  not  have 
time  to  say  good-bye  to  my  friend,  J.  W.  Burdick, 
Gen.  Passenger  Agent  of  the  D.  &  H.  R.  R.  Co.,  who 
was  one  of  her  passengers. 


/] 


52 


MR.  SAM.  SONDHEIM. 

How  well  I  remember  his  first  visit  to  the  Thousand 
Isles,  accompai.ied  by  several  friends,  all  of  whom 
are  expert  fishermen,  Messrs.  Ehrich  Bros.,  of  8th 
Ave,,  24tli  and  25th  Sts.,  Messrs.  Max  and  Harry 
Stadler,  of  Broadway,  N.  Y.  Well,  Sam  was  the 
most  amateur  of  all  amateur  fishers,  but  he  soon 
became  infatuated,  and  as  jj^ood  luck  followed  each 
and  every  effort,  "  Sam  "  became  almost  desperate.  I 
never  saw  one  so  much  ''''enthused.''  Why,  he  tele- 
tjraphed  home  three  times  and  had  his  vacation 
extended.  At  last  he  was  so  lucky  he  beat  all  the 
experts,  broke  all  the  records  and  cheerfully  left  foi 
home,  sis^hing,  however,  to  think  he  had  no  more 
conquests  to  make  Years  have  passed  since  then, 
and  now  he  is  numbered  among  the  expert  fishers  of 
the  Islands. 

WALTER  H.  GRIFFIN, 

who  for  many  years  was  room  clerk  at  the  Thousand 
Island  House  (now  connected  with  Hotel  Marlbor- 
ougii.  New  York),  was  the  winner  of  the  prize  for 
the  largest  pickerel  catch  of  1884.  It  was  caught 
within  one  hundred  yards  of  the  hotel  and  weighed 
eighteen  and  three-quarter  pounds. 

MR.  J.  C.  MATTHEWS, 

who  was  the  manager  of  the  Thousand  Island  House 
in  1884,  is  enquired  after  by  visitors  more  than  any 
other  person.  I  hope  to  be  saved  some  trouble,  as 
well  as  time,  by  stating  here  that  he  is  the  proprietor 
of  the  Sturtevant  House,  N.  Y.  If  you  visit  the  city 
givt;  him  a  call. 


53 


LORD  DUFFERIN, 

• 

one  of  Canada's  former  Governor-Generals,  and  in 
my  opinion,  the  best  they  ever  had,  was  a  passenger 
down  the  St.  Lawrence  many  times  while  I  was  guide 
to  the  River.  How  well  I  remember  some  one  asking 
him  why  he  left  Toronto  and  his  comfortable  quarters 
at  the  Queen's  Hotel  to  come  to  Montreal.  He 
answered  by  st.  '.ng,  that  over  across  the  lake  in  the 
United  States,  they  had  just  had  an  election,  the 
Tilden  and  Hayes  campaign,  and  as  it  was  impos- 
sible to  tell  who  was  really  chosen  by  the  people, 
he  was  afraid  they,  the  people,  would  rise  in  their 
might,  senri  a  deputation  over  to  Toronto,  kidnap 
him  and  -^  ^  him  in  the  presidential  chair.  Then 
what  wouiu  uecome  of  Poor  Little  Canada  ? 


GEORGE  WARREN  SHEPARD, 

formerly  a  Utica  dry  goods  merchant,  and  now  asso- 
ciated with  his  brother  in  Winter  street,  Boston, 
Mass.,  made  the  Thousand  Islands  his  home  many 
summers.  I  well  remember  one  evening  at  Clayton, 
having  just  met  and  talked  over  old  times,  (we  were 
in  the  minstrel  business  at  one  time,  say  twenty-four 
years  ago),  when  an  old  countryman  from  'way  back 
came  up  and  interrupted  our  conversation  by  asking 
what  made  those  smooth  tracks  on  the  water.  I  was 
about  to  remark  that  it  was  the  wake  of  some  vessel 
or  steamer,  when  George,  to  guy  the  farmer,  said  : 
"  They  were  the  tracks  made  by  sleighs  during  the 
winter  and  were  not  taken  up  when  the  ice  went  out." 


54 


ALL  NATIONALITIES  BENEFITED. 

It  improves  even  the  Italian  to  visit  Alexandria 
Bay.  We  had  one  there  last  season  who  washed  his 
face  thiee  times  a  day  and  ate  his  meals  at  the  table 
like  a  Christian. 


(( 


I- 


A  LITTLE  ONE  ON  PERKINS." 


Two  gentlemen  at  the  Thousand  Island  House  one 
day  were  talking,  when  the  subject  of  truth  was 
approached,  and  one  of  them  who  stammered,  said, 
"There  are  t-t-three  great  li-liars  i-i-in  America." 
The  friend  said,  "  Who  are  they  ?"  "  O-o-one  of  t-t-them 
i-i-is  T-T-Tom  Oc-Oc-Ochiltree  of  Te-Te-Texas,  and 
th-th-the  other  two  is  E-E-Eli  Perkins." 


VISITORS  AT  THE  THOUSAND  ISLANDS 

who  desire  to  see  Montreal  and  return  by  boat  (their 
time  being  limited),  the  following  information  will  be 
of  interest.  All  passengers  arrive  in  Montreal 
between  six  and  seven  o'clock  p.  m.,  as  there  is  little  to 
see  at  night  and  very  little  time  to  see  it  in.  The  boat 
leaves  her  dock,  Canal  Basin,  to  return,  every  morn- 
ing at  9  o'clock  except  Sunday.  You  can  remain  in 
Montreal  until  the  12  m.  train  for  Lachine  from  the  G. 
T.  R.  Station,  (by  taking  the  train,  fare  25  cents,  you 
will  arrive  at  Lachine  in  time  to  take  the  boat  and 
enjoy  your  dinner  while  passing  through  Lake  St. 
Louis).  Should  you  desire  to  prolong  your  stay, 
remain  in  Montreal  until  the  5  p.  m.  train  leaves  same 
depot  for  Coteau  Landing.  A  carriage  in  waiting  will 
take  you  to  the  boat,  fare  from  Montreal,  including 
carriage,  $1.25.     You  will  take  passage  from  there  at 


t 


55 

seven  o'clock,  and  have  your  supper  on  board  of  boat 
while  passing  through  Lake  St.  Francis.  It  takes 
the  boat  sixteen  hours  longer  to  come  back  than  to  go 
down  (reason  they  are  compelled  to  pass  through  the 
Lachine,  Beauharnois  and  Cornwall  canals,  which  con- 
sumes the  time).  All  passengers  arive  at  Alexandria 
Bay,  every  day,  between  one  and  two  o'clock  p.  m., 
except  on  Monday. 

WHAT  I  KNOW  ABOUT  CATCHING  FISH. 

During  last  Summer  I  was  at  Alexandria  Bay,  NY., 
and  took  note  of  some  of  the  best  catches  of  fish,  but  I 
have  not  the  space  to  record  them.  Let  me  say  that 
anybody  can  catch  fish  of  the  following  varieties  any- 
where in  the  St.  Lawrence  River  :  Rock  bass,  black 
bass,  perch,  pike,  pickerel  and  muscalonge.  I  have 
caught,  off  the  dock  at  the  Bay,  in  less  than  two  hours, 
a  black  bass  weighing  three  and  one-half  pounds  and 
a  pickerel  weighing  over  six  pounds.  The  largest  fish 
caught  last  season  was  a  muscalonge,  weight  38  lbs., 
caught  at  an  Island  opposite  Rockport.  A  pike  7/^ 
pounds,  black  bass  5)^  pounds,  a  pickerel  13  pounds. 
Several  fishing  parties  out  for  one  to  three  days  brought 
in  such  enormous  catches  that  if  I  mentioned  them 
they  would  be  called  fish  stories. 

Respectfully  yours,  E.  F.  BABBAGE. 

"I  OWE  YOU  AN  APOLOGY," 

Dear  reader,  because  since  the  first  edition  of  this  work 
it  has  claimed  that  there  are  no  mosquitoes  at  Alexan- 
dria Bay,  but  on  at  least  three  occasions  when  the  wind 
was  in  a  certain  direction  we  were  visited  last  year 
by  at  least  a  dozen  or  so.     After  a  thorough  search  of 


J 


f- 


56 

three  weeks,  unable  to  find  the  cause,  we  were  abcut 
to  give  It  up  when,  to  our  astonishment,  we  discovered 
it.  Upon  looking  up  the  hotel  register  we  found  that 
the  hotel  opened  that  year  with  twenty-seven  guests, 
all  from  New  Jersey.  Comments  are  unnecessary. 
We  found  relief  in  attending  Sunday  School,  and  after 
the  usual  exercises  were  gone  through  with  a  collec- 
tion was  taken  up  for  the  poor.  The  teacher,  desir- 
ing to  show  the  aptness  of  her  pupils,  asked  each  one 
as  he  put  his  mite  into  the  box  to  recite  an  appropri- 
ate verse  from  the  Bible.  The  first  lad  said,  "  The 
Lord  loveth  a  cheerful  giver,"  placed  his  mite  in  and 
took  his  seat.  The  second  one  said,  "  He  that  giveth 
to  the  poor  lendeth  to  the  Lord,"  and  proudly  took 
his  seat.  The  third  boy,  more  worldly  than  the  rest, 
remarked,  "that  a  fool  and  his  money  soon  parted" — 
He  will  sit  down,  if  he  can,  at  home. 


1 


m 


A  REAL  LIVE  DUDE 

was  at  the  Bay  last  season,  and  I  must  give  him  credit 
for  one  thing,  if  I  could  not  for  having  either  money 
or  brains,  but  will  say  he  was  very  attentive  to  the 
ladies,  and  it  may  be  said  to  his  credit,  he  never  tried 
to  cut  me  out.  One  fine  morning  he  induced  three  of 
the  nicest  young  ladies  at  the  Bay  to  take  a  boat  ride, 
and  for  the  privilege  of  their  company  agreed  to  do 
the  rowing  himself.  They  had  been  out  upon  the 
water  for  some  time,  and  he  had  done  the  rowing 
heroically,  but  getting  into  the  strong  current,  his 
physical  development  was  being  tested  to  its  utmost, 
when  he  asked  the  young  ladies  "  if  it  would  not  be 
better  for  him  to  hug  the  shore.''     After  a  pause  of  a 


57 


'     ).     ' 


minute,  the  girliest  girl  of  the  gfroup  exclaimed : 
'Well,  if  you  can't  find  anything  better  to  hug,  do  for 
heaven's  sake  '  hug  the  shore  :  *  " 

LOST  HIS   NAME. 

But  he  is  the  most  venerable  looking  man  I  ever 
saw,  and  he  struck  terror  to  the  mind  of  the  *'  Hall 
Boys"  and  waiters  at  the  Thousand  Island  House. 
More  than  one  of  them  told  me  that  he  must  be 
one  of  the  patriarchs  of  old,  either  Moses,  Elias 
or  Aaron,  come  back  to  the  earth  looking  just  as  he 
left  it.  Said  another,  "I  was  bound  to  ask  him  his 
age  so  as  to  see  if  it  was  or  not  one  of  those  old 
fellows."  I  met  him  on  the  Quebec  boat,  had  a  very 
pleasant  chat  with  him  ;  his  name  I  have  forgotten, 
but  he  is  Editor  of  the  Madison,  Wis.,  Journal,  been 
a  member  of  Congress,  and  was  ti  veling  for 
pleasure. 

E.  B.  WARREN,  OF  PHILADELPHIA,  PA., 

with  his  wife  and  daughters,  have  in  the  past  paid  the 
St.  Lawrence  River  many  visits,  and  been  mentioned 
by  me  for  their  fish  catches.  One  day  in  particular 
they  brought  in  and  exhibited  at  the  Thousand  Island 
House,  1 8  small  mouthed  black  bass  weighing 
seventy-four  pounds.  Since  the  completion  of  "  The 
Sagamore"  on  Green  Island,  and  the  building  of  an 
elegant  cottage  there,  he  stays  at  home,  and  I  am  con- 
tented with  the  old  proverb,  *'Tho'  lost  to  sight  to 
memory  dear." 


\ 


i 


,;), 


.i 


3  ^il 


!     •■' 


58 


E.  G.  GILMORE, 

New  York's  greatest  Theatrical  Manager,  has  enjoyed 
many  seasons  of  pleasure  at  Alexandria  Bay.  The 
last  time  I  saw  him,  he  wanted  to  know  how  it  would 
do  for  him  to  bring  his  whole  corps  de  ballet  to  the 
Thousand  Islands  for  a  season's  recuperation,  "  don't 
you  think  it  would  give  them  vigor,  such  good  brac- 
ing air  as  you  have  up  there  ?  " 

MESSRS.  RAYMOND  AND  WHITCOMB, 

America's  greatest  Excursion  Agents  have  probably 
brouglit  more  people  to  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  than 
have  come  indirectly  from  the  reading  of  the  several 
editions  of  my  book  that  have  been  issued  during  the 
past  seven  years,  which  is  saying  a  great  deal  for 
them.  I  hope  to  have  the  pleasure  of  meeting  more 
of  their  select  parties  during  the  coming  season.  The 
Detroit  News  excursion  should  not  be  forgotten,  they 
have  been  angel  visits,  however,  for  the  past  two 
year. 

MR.  AND  MRS.  CHAS.  MAC  EVOY, 

of  New  York,  have  been  visitors  at  the  Thousand 
Islands  many  times.  Mr.  MacEvoy  has  persevered  and 
after  many  years  succeeded  in  producing  "  Glazed 
Kid"  the  most  superb  of  shoe  materials,  "  out  vieing 
France."  My  Auntie  May,  who  weighs  two  hundred 
and  sixty-five  pounds,  after  wearing  a  pair  of  shoes 
four  months  made  of  this  material,  says,  "the  wearing 
qualities  of  the  glazed  kid  produced  the  best  results 
of  any  she  ever  wore."  One  season,  with  a  New 
York  friend,  they  caught  the  largest  catch  of  black 
bass  I  ever  saw  brought  in  by  amateurs. 


..     . 


'        )        ' 


59 

DR    PERRY   OF   THE   UNITED   STATES 

HOTEL, 

Saratoga  Springs,  caught  the  largest  muscalonge  of 
the  season.  As  the  fishing  is  much  better  every 
year,  on  iiccount  of  all  illegal  fishing  with  nets  having 
been  stopped,  I  hope  to  see  them  again  at  the  Bay,  as 
well  as  all  other  lovers  of  fishing. 

THE  NAMES  OF  THE  INHABITED    ISLANDS, 
POINTS  AND  COTTAGES 

In  the  American  Channel  of  the  river,  alphabetically  arranged  : 


All 
Arc 
Alice 


egheny  Point J-  [-   o_,^  •„ 

::^-andina ; ' ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ' ! ! !  icoi^-A^  j'&se. 


B 


„        ,■  Hon.  S.  G.  Pope. 

Bergshire ^^    p_  Mosher. 

J^jay  Side... Mrs.  Peck. 

Bonny  Kyne .C.  S.  Lyman. 

?'7,     Ti'I.A •  ■  •  Kev.  Walter  Ayrault. 

bee  Island j^    j^   Chisholm. 

Bella  \  ista  Lodge. . .  Mrs    I    G.  Holland. 

Bonnie  Castle  (Main  Land) Mrs  J .  o^.^^ 

Birch  Island "•  -*• 


4     g. 


,!  '-'H 


\  '/i 


Covert 


J.  C.  Covert. 

A,  H.  Greenwalt. 


C  oud  Rest ^    ^    Greenwalt 

Ch'llon /Xhas.  G.  Kmery. 

Calumet  ,    ^j   ^^^^^-^^^ 

Cedar  Island.  _ J     ^    ^^^^^ 

Comfort  Island .    ■■■■•••■ „    a    t  a„<rhlin 

Craig  Side  (Wells  Island). Sle^cker  Van  Wagenen. 

Crescent  Cottages  (Main  Land) tiieecKer     a  ^ 

^     .,,    ^  H.  R.  Heath. 

Devil's  Oven   y   ^^   Deshler. 

Deshler  Island ^^^   g   ^^m^^. 

Deer    sland Douglass  Miller. 

Douglass  Island «  ^  Babcock. 

Dinglespeil  ■'       ^ 

„     ,  T   C.  Chittenden. 

Edgewood  Park g"S,    j^i^rtin 

Edgewood  Cottage ^-^   Hungerford. 

Ella    sland ^,   g   Goodwin. 

Excelsior  Group '^'  ^ 

_,.,,,.  C.  L,  Fredericks. 

Frederick  Island Mrs  R  Curnee  &  Miss  Newton. 

Fisher's  Landing ^^^"^  'nev^ey. 

Friendly 


1 


6o 


Florence  Island H.  S,  Chandler. 

Felsciieck Prof.  A.  G.  Hopkins. 

Kt-rn  N.  A:  J.  Wilson. 

Fairy  Land C.  P.,  C.  H.  &  W.  H.  Hayden. 

Q 

Odvernor's  Island Hon,  T.  G.  Alvord. 

Gun  Island H.H.  Warner. 

( loosK  Island Mrs   Lottie  Simonds. 

(jypsy  Island J.  M.  Curtis. 

H 

Helen's  Island Mrs.  O,  G.  Staples. 

Hemlock Hon.  W.  K,  Porter  and  Wilson. 

Hub  Island Georwe  W.  Best. 

Holloway's  Point Nathan  Holloway. 

Harmony Mrs.  C.  lierger. 

Hub  Clark  Island Will  Clark. 

Hart's  Island Hon.  E.  K.  Hart. 

H UK'uenot L.  Hasbrouck. 

I 

Isle  Helena Mrs.  Helen  S.  Taylor. 

Isle  of  Pines Mrs.  K.  N.  Robinson. 

Island  Royal Royal  L.  Ueane. 

Islanil  Gracie Miss  G.  Fox. 

In^leside  (Cherry  Island) G.  H.  Marsh. 

Imperial  Island Mr.  R.  L.  Singer. 

Island  Mary W.  M.  Palmer. 

Idlewild Mrs.  R.  A.  Packer. 


Jefferson  Island 

Jolly  Oaks  (Wells  Island). 


. .  E.  P.  Gardiner. 

. .  Prof.  A.  H.  Brown  and  others. 


Killien's  Point Mr.  J.  Killien. 

Kit  Grafton Mrs.  S.  L.  George. 


Little  Calumet Oliver  H.  Green. 

Lone  Pine Comstock  &  Co. 

Little  Charm  Island  Mrs.  F.  W.  Haker. 

Look  Out  Island Thos.  H.  I'orden. 

Little  Lehigh C.  H.  Cummings. 

Little  Fraud R.  Pease. 

Long  Branch Mrs.  C.  E.  Clark. 

Little  Delight L.  W.  Morrison. 

Long  Rock W.  F.  Wilson. 

Little  Whortleberry Mrs.  L.  E.  B.  Brown. 

Lattimer Dr.  C.  E.  Lattimer. 

Lindner's John  Lindner. 

Louisiana  Point ludge  La  Batte. 

Little  (;em Nlrs.  V.  Walton. 

Little  Ang2l W.  A.  Angell. 

Linliihgow   Hon.  R.  A.  Livingston. 

Lily's  Island L.  B.  H.  Morrison. 

M 

Maple  Island Joseph  Atwell. 

Minium Rev.  W.  W.  Walsh. 

Melrose  Lodge  (Cherry  Island) A.  B.  Pullman. 

Manhattan J.  L.  Hasbrouck,  J.  C.  Spencer. 

Maple  Island J.  L.  Hasbrouck. 


6i 


f 


N 

Neinah-bin J.  H.  Olipliant. 

Nobby  Island H.  R.  Htaih. 

Neti's  Island \V.  H.  Hayden. 

o 

One   I'ree  Island William  \Vriv;lit. 

Occidt-nt  and  Orient K,  W.  W'asiiburn. 

Ours  Island Mrs.  M.  Carter. 

P 

Peel  Island Mrs.  S.  P.  Lake  and  others. 

Point  Vivian K.  T.  Kvans  and  others. 

Photo  Island A.  C    Mcintyre. 

I'uMinan  Island (leor>;e  M.  Pullman. 

Point  Lookout  (Wells  Island) Miss  L.  J.  Ihillock. 

Picnic  Island Westminster  Park  Association. 

Point  Marjifuerite  (Main  Island) K.  Anthony. 

Pike  Island Frank  K.  Dickin'^on. 

Palisade  Point A.  J.  lieckwith, 

Q 

Quartett  Island Mrs.  W.  Eagan. 

R 

Rob  Roy  Island A.   H.  Greenwalt. 

River  Side  Island James  C.  Lee. 

Resort    Island W.  J.  Lewis. 

Round   Island iJaptist  Association. 

s 

Schooner  Island J.N.  Whitehoiise. 

Sunbeam  Group <  )dd  Fellows  of  Watertown. 

Spuyten  Duy vel Alice  P.  Sargent. 

Sumer-Land Summer-Land  Association. 

Sunny-Side  Island W.  Stevenson. 

Seven  Isles Hon.  Bradley  Winslow. 

Sunnv  Side  (Cherry  Island) Rev.  George  Rockwell. 

Safe  Point  (Wells  Island) H.  H.  Warner. 

St.  Elmo N.  H.  Hunt. 

Sun- Dew  Island Chas.  M.  Slamm. 

St.  John's Judge  Donohue. 

Sport  Island H,  C.  Wilber. 

T 

Two  Islands,  Eel  Bay Di.  E.  L.  Sargent. 

Twin  Islands 1.  L.   Huntington. 

Throop  Dock Dr.  C.  I'"..  Lattimer  and  others. 

The  Ledges Mrs.    |.  L.   Hudson. 

Thousand  Island  Park Methodist  Association. 

u 

Una  Island Mrs.  M.  E.  Steele. 

V 

Vanderbilt  Island J.  B.  Hamilton. 

Vilula  Island H.  Sisson. 

w 

Walton  Island J.  N.  &  G.  H.  Robinson. 

West  View  Island Hon.  S.  G.  Pope. 

Welcome  Island Hon.  S.  G.  Pope. 

Whortleberry  Island Mrs.  Etta  Stillwell. 

Watch  Island Mrs.  Elizabeth  Skinner. 

Waving  Branches H.  S.  .Ainsworth. 

Wild  Rose Hon.  W.  G.  Rose. 

Warner  Island H.  H.  Warner. 

Wau  Winet C.E.Hill. 

West  Point John  Mathews. 


'1 


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if 


t. 


R 


OUTE 


A. 


I. 


WEST  SHORE  ROUTE 


N.  Y.  C.  &  H.  K.   U'.  R.,  LESSEES. 


THE  TOURIST   ROUTE  TO  THE    NORTH. 

While  many  suppose  that  both  sides  of  the  Hudson 
River  present  equal  attraction — and  it  would  be  hard 
to  decide  which  is  the  most  beautiful — it  is  a  curious 
fact  that  all,  or  nearly  all,  the  noted  summer  resorts 
for  which  the  country  adjacent  is  famous  are  located 
on  its  western  bank.  Thus,  starting  from  New  York 
and  following  up  the  West  Shore  Route,  we  find  the 
Palisades,  Tappan,  Rockland  Lake,  Stony  Point, 
Cranston's,  West  Point,  Cornwall,  Lakes  Mohonk 
and  Minnewaska,  the  Catskills,  Saratoga,  Mount  Mc- 
Gregor,  and  the  Adirondacks. 

HOW  TO  REACH  KAATERSKILL. 

The  West  Shore  railway  connects  with  the  Ulster 
and  Delaware  railroad  at  Kingston,  New  York,  thence 
the  journey  is  made  to  Phoenicia  via  the  Ulster  and 
Delaware  Railroad.  At  Phoenicia  connection  is  made 
with  the  Stony  Clove  Railroad  and  Kaaterskill  Rail- 
road to  Kaaterskill  Station,  the  terminus  of  the 
Kaaterskill  Railroad;  making  a  through  all  rail  route 
to  the  top  of  the  mountain. 

62 


• 


63 


HOTEL  KAATERSKILL  AND   ITS  ARTI- 
FICIAL SURROUNDINGS. 

There  it  is  upon  the  topmost  peak  of  the  mountain 
from  whicFi  it  takes  its  name,  three  thousand  feet 
above  the  sea-level,  and  from  its  broad  porches  com- 
manding views  of  ten  thousand  square  miles  of  the 
valley  of  the  Hudson,  with  sixty  miles  of  that,  the 
most  beautiful  river  in  the  world,  in  the  foreground. 
Looking  northward  the  Adirondacks  are  seen  stretch- 
ing away  from  the  base,  eastward  the  Green  Moun- 
tains and  the  Berkshire  Hills,  and  to  the  south  the 
Highlands.  It  is  only  from  the  peaks  of  the  Pacific 
Slope  that  views  of  greater  breadth  and  grandeur  of 
beauty  are  to  be  obtained,  but  upon  them  there  is  no 
Hotel  Kaaterskill  to  oiler  its  hospitality  to  the  tired 
tourist  or  loiterer  by  pleasant  ways,  nor  are  they 
within  a  few  hours  of  the  great  Eastern  centers  of 
population,  as  the  Hotel  Kaaterskill  is.  Pay  it  a  visit, 
dear  reader,  and  enjoy  the  hospitality  of  its  manager, 
Mr.  W.  F.  Paige,  and  his  assistants,  and  I  know  you 
will  be  pleased. 

In  addition  to  the  above  points  of  interest, 
the  traveler  may  be  conveyed  to  Lake  George,  Lake 
Champlain  and  Montreal  on  the  north;  Sharon  Springs, 
Cooperstown,  Richfield  Springs,  Thousand  Islands  and 
the  Lake  Region  of  Central  New  York.  Then  take  the 
New  York  Central  Railroad  from  the  Grand  Central 
depot  and  proceed  on  the  world  renowned  four-track 
road  to  Utica  where  direct  connection  can  be  made  with 
the  Utica  and  Black  River  branch  of  the  Rome,  Water- 
town  and  Ogdensburg  Railroad,  which  in  a  few  hours 
will  bring  you  to  the  majestic  scenery  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence.    At   Clayton    you    tiike  one  of   the  beautiful 


?  ii 


11 


>!1 
PS 

'is 


I 


64 


i: 


steamers  of  the  Richelieu  and  Ontario  Navigation 
Company,  direct  from  Montreal,  or  continue  on  by 
rail  to  Rochester,  where  connection  is  made  witli  tlie 
elephant  side- wheel  steamer  Sy/van  Stream,  presided 
over  by  the  old  veteran  Captain  James  B.  Estes,  which 
leaves  Charlotte,  N.  Y.,  every  Tuesday  mornine:,  com- 
mencing July  9,  18S9,  upon  the  arrival  of  the  train 
from  Rochester.  This  steamer  will  stop  at  Oswego, 
Clayton,  Round  Island,  Thousand  Island  Park  and 
Alexandria  Bay,  where  we  arrive  at  5:30  o'clock  in 
the  evening.  In  returning  we  leave  the  bay  Thursday 
and  arriving  at  Charlotte  in  time  to  connect  with  the 
evening  trains  on  the  N.  Y.  Central  to  Rochester, 
Syracuse,  Utica,etc.,  or  wecan  continue  onto  Buffalo. 


BUFFALO,  N.  Y. 

It  is  with  great  pleasure,  a'  i  assurance  that  you 
will  be  pleased,  that  I  advise  tourists  to  make  a  stop 
over  at  the  Niagara  Hotel,  Buffalo,  N.  Y.  There  is 
not  a  tourist's  hotel  in  the  country  to  compare  with  it 
for  location,  vie  V  and  surroundings.  The  conserv- 
atory, promenades,  music,  in  fact  every  appointment, 
is  first  class.  All  that  need  be  said  in  this  connection  is 
that  the  whole  institution  is  under  the  personal  super- 
vision of  Henry  F.  Roesser.  That  is  volumes  in  its 
praise.  Pay  it  one  visit,  you  are  sure  to  come  again 
and  recommend  your  friends.  Buffalo  is  connected  with 
Toronto  by  the  Grand  Trunk  R.  R.,  the  new  route 
leaving  Erie  depot  at  8:45  A.  M.,  hy  rail  to  Port 
Dalhousie,  connecting  with  the  steamer  for  Toronto, 
arriving  at  1:30  P.  M.,  connecting  with  Royal  Mail 
Line  for  Thousand  Islands  and  Montreal,  or  proceed 
by  rail  to 


65 


'     \     ' 


NIAGARA   FALLS. 

When  visitinir  this  wonder  of  wonders  at  any  season 
of  the  yeiir,  stop  at  the  Spencer  [louse.  It  is  first 
chiss  and  under  tlie  manaj^ement  of  A.  Hector 
Gluck.  Y(Jii  are  sure  to  be  satisfied  in  every 
way.  Trains  leave  Niaq^ara  Falls  everv  inorninu^, 
Sundays  excepted,  by  (irand  Trunk  R.  R.  direct  for 
ToHMito,  arriving  in  time  to  connect  with  the  Mail 
Line  for  M(jntreal.  Trains  leave  iNiagara  Falls  every 
mcjrning,  except  Sunday,  at  9:45  A.  M.  via  Central 
Hudson  branch  for  Lewiston.  Any  information 
relative  to  the  route  or  the  purchase  oi  tickets  will 
be  cheerfully  given  upon  application  to  Mrs.  L.  Bar- 
ber, who  can  be  found  at  room  No.  1  of  the  Interna- 
tional Hotel  Building. 

At  Lewiston  connections  are  made  with  the  fast 
sailing  side-wheel  steamboats 


CHICORA  AND  SABOLA, 

making  three  trips  daily  across  the  beautiful  Lake 
Ontario,  arriving  at  Toronto  in  time  to  connect  with 
the  Richelieu  and  Ontario  Navigation  Company  for 
Kingston,  Alexandria  Bay,  Thousand  Islands  and 
Rapids  of  the  St.  Lawrence  to  Montreal. 

TORONTO, 

the  capital  of  the  Province  of  Ontario,  is  situated  on 
a  circular  bay  of  the  same  name,  and  was  founded  by 
Governor  Simcoe  in  1794,  and  we  advise  all  tourists 
to  make  a  stay  of  one  or  two  days  here.  It  is  the  only 
Americanized  city  in  the  Dominion  of  Canadn.  The 
Queen's  Royal  Hotel,  situated  at  Niagara  on  the  Nia- 
gara river,  and  the  Queen's  Hotel,  at  Toronto,  are  pre- 


It 


66 


I' 


sided  over  by  Messrs.  McGaw  and  Winnett  :  this  is 
etiouu:h  in  their  praise — if  you  stop  at  eitlier  of  these 
hotels  you  will  surely  be  pleased.  If  you  desire  a  car- 
riau:e  while  in  the  city,  Telephone  No.  109,  R.  B(jnd's 
livery,  who  has  evervtiiinL^  first-class  in  that  line. 

PORT  HOPE 

is  situated  65  miles  from  Toronto.  A  small  stream, 
which  here  falls  into  the  lake,  has  formed  a  valley,  in 
which  the  town  is  located.  The  harbor  at  the  mouth 
of  the  stream  is  sliallow,  but  safe  and  commodious. 
Port  Hope  is  a  pretty  town  ;  .jn  the  western  side  the 
liills  rise  tj^radually  one  above  the  otlier.  The  hit^hest 
summit,  -ailed  "Fort  Orton,"  affords  a  fine  prospect, 
and  overlooks  the  country  f'^r  a  j^reat  distance.  The 
village  is  incorporated;  population  about  5.1 14.  A 
direct  route  to  Rociiester  by  the  Steamer  Norseman 
leaves  this  port  every  morning,  except  Sunday,  call- 
ing at  Port  Hope  and  connectins;  with  Grand  Trunk 
train  from  Toronto  every  week  day  morning  and 
arriving  in  Rochester  the  same  afternoon.  The  Grand 
Summer  Excursiv^ns  of  the  Norseman  from  Rochester 
to  Alexandria  Bay  leave  Rochester  every  Saturday 
afternoon  and  passing  through  the  1,000  Island 
scenery  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  arrives  at  Alex- 
andria Bay  in  time  for  dinner,  giving  the  passengers 
about  five  hours  at  the  Bay,  and  returns  to  R<jchester 
early  on  Monday.  I  have  advised  many  of  my  friends 
to  make  this  trip,  all  of  whom  have  expressed  them- 
selves as  delighted. 

COBOURG, 

seven  miles  below  Port  Hope,  contains  6,000  inhabi- 
tants. It  has  seven  churches,  two  banks,  three  grist 
mills,  t\vo  foundries,  and  the  largest  cloth  factory  in 


i' 


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6? 

the  Province.  It  is  also  the  seat  of  Victoria  College 
and  Theological  Institute.  Midway  between  Port 
Mope  and  Cobourg  is  "Duck  Island,'' on  which  a 
lighthouse  is  maintained  by  the  government. 


FROM   KINGSTON  TO   MONTREAL. 

The  Mail  Line,  or  Richelieu  Co.'s  boats,  leave 
Kingston  every  morning  at  five  o'clock.  As  we  pro- 
ceed down  the  river,  a  description  of  the  city  will  be 
in  order. 

Kingston  has  a  population  of  15,000,  was  founded 
in  1672,  by  Governor  De  Courcelles,  receiving  the 
name  of  Fort  Cataraqui.  Later,  a  massive  stone  fort 
was  built  by  Count  De  Frontenac,  and  received  his 
name.  In  1762  the  place  was  taken  by  the  British, 
who  gave  it  its  present  name.  As  a  place  of  defense 
it  stands  next  in  strength  to  Ouebec.  The  batteries 
of  Fort  Henry  are  calculated  for  the  reception  of 
numerous  cannon  and  morta/s  of  the  largest  calibre. 
These,  together  with  neighboring  martello  towers, 
form  a  formidable  defense  against  any  aggressive 
movement  which  might  be  directed  against  the  city. 
These  fortifications  are  seen  to  excellent  advantage 
from  the  steamer  soon  after  it  leaves  the  dock. 

On  the  right  is  Garden  Island ;  on  the  left,  Cedar 
Island,  and  behind  is  Fort  Henry.  There  is  here, 
also  in  view,  the  ;  )und  st(jne  towers  referred  to  above. 
Near  the  middle  of  the  river  is  Wolf,  (jr  Long  Island, 
21  miles  long,  and  7  miles  wide  near  the  western  end. 
Tiiere  is  nothing  eitlier  of  romance  or  iiistorical 
episode  to  weave  into  our  story,  concerning  tlit 
inhabitants  of  this,  the  largest  of  the  Thousand  Island 
group.    Suffice  it  to  say,  that  the  territory  is  a  portion 


I       ifl 


68 


of  the  Dominion  of  Canada,  and  thai  the  habits  of 
civilized  life  characterize  the  people.  Between  one 
channel  and  the  main  land  there  is  St.  John's  or 
Movve  Island,  of  no  mean  proportions. 

Ordinarily,  we  have  now  spent  about  one  hour  on 
the  steamer  from  Kingston,  and  come  to  the  point  in 
the  channel  where  we  must  diverge  either  for  Gana- 
noque  or  Clayton.  We  are  bound  for  Clayton  and 
the  American  channel  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River. 
(For  description  of  Gananoque  and  the  Canadian 
channel,  see  Route  of  the  Island  Wanderer,  page  40.) 


Th( 


trio: 


ht. 


e  time  is  early  morning,  the  sun  quite 
and  the  atmosphere  remarkably  clear.  The  scene  is 
now  attractive.  Look  aliead  in  the  distance  a  little 
to  the  left,  and  you  will  behold  the  eagle  tree.  Hun- 
dreds have  been  deceived  with  the  idea  that  it  was  an 
actual  live  eagle,  spreading  its  wings  and  soaring 
aloft  to  a  height  that  the  imagination  can  scarcely 
reach.  It  is  a  delusion  ;  'tis  nothing  but  a  tree,  as 
its  true  features,  or  ratiier  beautiful  foliage,  has 
deceived  the  eye  of  the  novice  of  this  region. 

On  the  left  is  Grindstone  Island.  On  it  is  an  organ- 
ized community.  The  inhabitants  are  farmers,  and  for 
the  education  of  whose  children  a  school  is  main- 
tained.    On  the  right  is  Clayton. 

It  may  be  well  to  state  here  that  authorities  (?)  differ 
as  to  how  many  Islands  there  really  are.  Some  say 
fifteen  hundred  ;  some  eighteen  hundred,  and  others 
carefully  write,  ntarly  two  thousand.  Life  is  too 
short  for  us  to  st(jp  and  count  these  natural  beauties, 
and  even  the  pilots  lua-e  no  desire  to  win  fame  as 
statisticians   by  asserting  the  correct   number.     The 

)rrect  man  of 


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Aj«M»a«Hpp»  PfM< 


69 


the  St.  Lawrence  River  published,  which  will  not  be 
misleading  to  the  student  of  the  minute  details.  But 
we  digress. 

CAPE  VINCENT 

is  a  pleasant  little  village  in  Jefferson  county,  N  Y., 
at  the  junction  of  Lake  Ontario  and  the  St.  Lawrence 
River.  It  s  also  the  terminus  of  the  Rome,  Water- 
town  and  Ogdensburg  Railroad,  and  connections  by 
steamer  to  Alexandria  Bay.  Connections  are  made 
to  Kingston  by  Steamer  Maud. 

Let  us  here  describe  the  American  channel  from 
Cape  Vincent. 

As  we  steam  out  of  this  port,  on  the  left  is  Long, 
or  Wolf  Island,  21  miles  in  length  and  7  miles  in 
width.     The  next  on  the  right  is 

CARLETON   ISLAND. 

At  the  upper  extemity  the  land  narrows  into  a 
rugged  promor  ')ry,  ending  in  a  bluff  sixty  feet  in 
height.  Here,  lifting  their  ruined  heads  aloft,  and 
plainly  visible  to  all  passers  along  the  river,  stand  a 
numberof  toppling  and  half  ruined  chimneys.  These 
may  b'"  seen  for  miles  around.  So  long  have  these 
old  sentinels  watched  over  the  scenes  around  them 
that  their  history  is  lost  in  the  misty  past.  Around 
them  are  the  remaining  ruins  of  an  old  fort,  supposed 
by  many  to  be  the  ruins  of  old  Fort  Frontenac. 
Around  its  old  redoubts  and  parapets  linger  anti- 
quated historical  legends  and  traditions  enough  to 
fill  a  volume,  and  forming  an  interesting  study.  An 
ancient  well,  cut  in  the  solid  Trenton  limestone 
down  to  the  level  of  the  lake,  has  been  converted  bv 


■i 


i 


70 

the  reckless  imaginations  of  the  natives  into  a  re- 
ceptacle of  the  golden  doubloons  which  the  French 
soldiers,  upon  evacuating  the  old  forTV  are  said  to 
have  thrown  there,  with  the  brass  guns  on  top  of 
them.  Upon  either  side  and  immediately  in  front  of 
the  bluff  upon  which  tL^oldlort  stands,  is  a  quiet, 
pretty  little  bay,  which  may  once  have  supplied  a  safe 
and  easy  anchorage  for  the  vessels  that  lay  under  its 
protecting  guns. 

The  fortress  is  supposed  to  have  been  one  of  im- 
portance as  a  military  post  at  some  time,  having  been 
built  upon  an  excellent  plan  and  in  the  most  substan- 
tial manner.  Numbers  of  graves  still  occupy  a  field 
near  by,  the  remains  of  the  brave  soldiers  who  once 
occupied  the  fort.  The  scene  is  of  deep  interest  to 
the  student  of  history.  This  Island  lias  been  pur- 
chased by  the  Folger  Brothers,  and  used  for  pic-nics 
and  pleasure  parties. 

About  six  miles  this  sitle  of  Clayton  is  Lindsay 
Island,  the  only  one  on  the  right  between  Cape  Vin- 
cent and  Clayton. 

CLAYTON 

is  in  the  American  channel.  In  the  distant  front, 
just  before  lantling,  we  have  a  magnificent  view  of 
Prospect  Park  and  hill,  a  delightful  spot  for  recrea- 
tion and  jjleasure.  Xo  better  view  can  be  had  of  the 
islandband  surrcjuiiding  country  than  from  the  emi- 
nence of  the  hill.  Clayton  is  our  first  stopping  place. 
It  IS  a  village  that  derives  its  importance  to  tourists 
as  being  the  terminus  of  the  R.,  \V.  ^  O.  R.R.,  Utica 
and  Black  River  Division,  and  here  it  it  is  VN'here 
passengers  from    the    Last   generally   get   their   first 


'   V  ' 


71 


'  ^  • 


\ 


i^limpse  of  the  St.  Liwrence.  There  are  three 
^oud  hotels,  the  Hubbard,  Walton  and  the  We>t  End  ; 
kept  by  as  genial  landlords  as  ever  lived,  and  from 
the  town  many  fishing  parties  go  out  daily.  The 
steamer  St.  Lawrence  runs  from  this  port  in  con- 
nection with  the  above  named  railroads  to  Alexandria 
Bay  and  other  landing  places  en  route.  Opposite 
Clayton,  on  the  left,  as  we  proceed  down  the  river,  is 
Governor  Island,  owned  by  Hon.  Thomas  G.  Alvord, 
of  Syracuse.  Next  to  Gov.  Alvord's  Isle,  on  the  left, 
is  Calumet,  five  acres,  owned  by  Chas.  G.  Emery,  ot 
Old  Judge  cigarette  and  tobacco  fame,  who  has  lav- 
ishly expended  a  large  amount  of  nifjney  for  comfort. 
His  villa  and  apartments  are  quite  strikin-^,  having 
1,000  feet  of  dockage  and  a  stone  wall  all  around  the 
island,  4,300  feet — the  only  island  having  an  elevation 
of  35  feet  and  a  perfect  soil,  all  productive.  He  pur- 
chased the  steam  yacht  Calumet,  said  to  be  one  of  the 
fastest  yachts  on  th '  river.  The  next  island  on  the 
left,  about  200  yards  distant,  is  Powder  Horn.  The 
origin  of  this  "euphonious"  name  has  not  been  handed 
down  by  tradition.  On  the  right  is  Washington 
Island;  on  the  left,  nearly  opposite,  is  Blutf  Island  ; 
behind  which  is  Robin's  Island.  Next,  on  the  right, 
over  two  miles  from  Clayton,  is 


I'll 


ROUND  ISLAND 

and  park.  This  is  the  property  of  the  Baptist  Asso- 
ciation, and  every  year  people  of  this  persuasion  in 
large  numbers,  gather  for  religious  worship  and 
fccreation.  There  is  a  hotel,  fitted  up  witli  the 
modern  appointments,  for  the  accommodation  of  300 
g'jests,  named  the  'Tlotel  Frontenac."     The  docks  are 


72 


in  excellent  condition,  and  the  fishing  boats  are 
favorites.  On  the  left  is  Little  Round  Island  and 
"Hog's  Back."  We  have  now  several  cottages  in 
view  ;  the  one  painted  dark  brown  is  owned  by  Mr. 
Harbodle.  On  the  point  is  Ethelridge  cottage,  and 
many  others  not  known  to  me,  as  they  spring  up  as 
fjuickly  as  mushrooms  do  in  an  open  field. 

Leaving  Round  Island,  and  looking  in  the  distant 
front,  we  have  a  view  of  the  Thousand  Island  Park. 
Ab(jut  one  mile  from  Round  Island,  on  the  right,  is 
VVatcii  Island  or  "  Indolence,"  owned  by  S.  T.  Skin- 
ner. On  the  left  are  Bluff,  Maple  and  Hemlock,  the 
three  prcity  islands  fronting  the  foot  of  Grindstone 
Island.  On  Hemlock  is  the  ClifT  House,  owned  by 
Mr.  Garrison,  of  Syracuse.  About  five  minutes  after 
leaving  Round  Island,  we  come  on  the  left  in  sight  of 
Hub  Island.  A  large  hotel,  the  Hub  house,  occupied 
this  site,  but  was  burned  in  March,  1884;  GrinnelTs 
Island  and  House  ;  Otseg(j  Camp  is  also  on  the  left. 
On  the  right  is  Fisher's  landing,  Robinson's  Island, 
owned  by  Eugene  Robinson,  New  Vork,  banker  and 
broker,  (he  brcjke  Drew).  This  island  was  purchased 
last  year  by  W.  C.  McCord,  ofXew  York.  Johnson's 
Light,  Washburn  Island  and  Frederick  Island.  Mr. 
Johnson,  the  original  light-house  keeper,  and  after 
whom  the  island  is  named,  was  the  man  who  burned 
the  Robert  Feel,  the  English  vessel,  in  retaliation  for 
sending  the  Caroline  over  Niagara  Falls. 

Just  before  landing  at  Thousand  Island  Park,  upper 
end  (jf  Wells  Island,  is  Twin  Island,  owned  by  J.  L. 
Huntington.  On  the  left,  and  in  connection  with  the 
Thousand  Island  Park,  is  the  bath  house,  (in  a  dilapi- 
dated   condition),    where    the    Methodists    formerly 


'     S     ' 


73 


received  baptism,  a  hi  Bob  Ingersoll,  with  soap.  Said 
U)  be  q^ood  for  this  world,  if  not  hereafter.  We  now 
land  at 


» 


THOUSAND  ISLAND  PARK. 

The  boat  stops  at  the  western  end  of  Wells  Island, 
at  a  fine  wharf  and  close  to  a  large  number  of  hand- 
some cottages.  You  can  tell  what  the  place  is  the 
minute  you  approach  it.  There  is  no  mistaking  a 
Methodist  Summer  Ci>mp,  find  it  where  you  will.  It 
is  always  neat  and  clean  and  orderly.  This  is  the 
Thousand  Island  Park,  a  Methodist  resort,  opened  in 
1873.  Although  the  scenery  is  somewhat  marred  by 
the  great  numoer  of  solemn-faced  clergyman  strolling 
about  the  grounds,  it  is  still  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
spots  to  be  found  among  the  islands.  Camp-meet- 
ings are  held  here;  also  Sunday  school  and  temper- 
ance and  educational  conventions,  and  other  meetings 
all  through  the  summer.  A  large  and  spacious  hof^l 
was  opened  July  loth,  18S3.  The  name  was  originally 
Thousand  Island  Camp  ground,  but  was  changed  in 
1878  to  its  present  name. 

Again  on  our  way,  the  first  house  on  the  left  is 
owned  by  Harlow  J.  Remington,  of  Ilion,  N.  Y., 
whose  fame  and  fortune  are  in  liiles.  Next  on  the 
left  is  Wellesley  House  and  beautiful  cottage.  On  the 
left,  handsome  villas  line  the  shore  of  the  island. 
About  half  a  mile  from  Fine  VMew  House  is  Jolly 
Oak  Point,  with  its  four  cottages,  two  owned  by  the 
Norton  brothers,  a  third  by  Dr.  Ferguson,  and  the 
fourth  by  Hon.  W.  W.  Butterfield,  of  Redwood.  From 
here  to  Lookout  Point  is  about  half  a  mile  ;  and  next 
is  Rood's  place,  with  a  fine  dock  and  good  accommo- 


li: 


i'' 


m 


u 


74 

dalions  for  tourists.  About  two  hundred  yards  below 
is  I^ecl'sdock,  where  the  boat  Robert  Peel  was  burned 
in  1837.  This  dock  was  rebuilt  in  1884.  Robbin's 
coitage,  one  hundred  feet  to  the  left,  is  Island  Blanch, 
owned  bv  E.  D.  Buckinii:ham  :  a  little  below  on  the 
rit^ht  is  the  farm  of  Captain  Jack  ;  you  can  see  the 
old  saw-mill  in  a  dilapidated  condition  on  the  bank. 
Opposite  on  the  left  is  the  celebrated  Limburger 
cheese  factory.  (Post  mortem  examinations  held 
here  weekly.)  (This  *' goak  "  would  take  better  if  you 
were  just  introduced  to  Limburger  for  the  first  time)* 
On  the  right  is  Collins'  dock  ;  below,  a  few  feet,  is 
Calumet  Island  and  cottage,  owned  by  Oliver  H. 
Green,  No.  6  Calumet  court,  Boston,  Mass.  On  the 
right  lies  the  remains  of  old  Captain  Jack's  Boat, 
gone  to  rest.  *  *  *  *  Here  you  are  expected  to 
drop  a  tear.  Brown's  Bay  on  the  left  and  Swan  Bay 
on  the  right.  The  next  island  on  the  right  is  owned 
by  Mr.  Moffet  of  Watertown,  N.  Y.  Passing  the 
bays,  we  come  on  the  right  to  Central  Park,  formerly 
Grinnells  Point  and  parade  ground,  purchased  bv 
parties  and  laid  out  for  a  park.  Several  large  and 
beautiful  cottages  were  built  last  season  and  many 
contemplated  for  this  season.  On  the  left  opposite 
on  the  bluff,  is  Hill's  Crest,  owned  by  General  Shields, 
of  Philadelphia,  Pa.  Foot  of  Central  Park  is  Page 
Point,  a  former  wood  station  for  the  N.  T.  Co.'s  line 
of  steamers.     On  the  right  is 


.   f 


I 

? 


POINT  VIVIAN. 

Point  Vivian  is  situated  (jn  the  main  shore  of  the 
St.  Lawrence  River,  about  two  and  one-half  miles 
from  Alexandria    Bay.     It    was    formerly    owned   by 


75 


? 


Captain  VV.  H.  Houghton,  and  was  purchased  by- 
Messrs.  George  Ivers,  John  J.  Kinney,  Isaac  A.  Wood, 
Dr.  L.  E.  Jones,  R.  Barnes,  Rezot  To/er,  and  E. 
Hungerford,  in  the  fall  of  1877  (all  of  Evans  Mills, 
N.  Y.).  Thev  had  it  surveyed  into  forty  building 
lots,  with  parks,  avenues  and  streets.  A  magnificent 
dock  was  built,  two  hundred  feet  long,  and  any  boat, 
from  a  skiff  to  an  ocean  steamer,  can  land  here. 

Opposite  Point  Vivian  on  the  left  is  Island  Royal, 
owned  by  Royal  E.  Deane,  of  New  York,  firm  of 
Bramall,  Deane  &  Co.  Mr.  Deane  is  a  very  enthusiastic 
lover  of  the  scenery  as  well  as  the  hunting  and  fish- 
ing in  this  vicinity,  coming  to  this,  his  summer  home, 
quite  early  in  the  spring,  and  often  remaining  until 
winter  fairly  sets  in,  tor  now  lere  else  can  he  get  such 
a  variety  of  fish  and  game,  and  have  the  surroundings 
so  agreeable.  Next  on  the  left  is  Shady  Covert, 
owned  bv  Editor  J.  C.  Covert  of  the  Cleveland  Leader. 

After  leaving  Point  Vivian,  on  the  right  is  Curtis 
Point  and  cottage,  which  joins  Rose  Island  by  a 
bridge.  Here  is  where  ex- Mayor  W.  G.  Rose,  of 
Cleveland,  O.,  enjoys  his  summers.  The  next  is  Alle- 
gheny Point,  owned  by  J.  S.  Laney,  of  Pittsburg, 
Pa.  The  fence  was  built  to  keep  tfie  children  from 
falling  into  the  river.  Opposite  on  the  left  is  Seven 
Isles  owned  by  Gen.  Bradley  VVinslow.  Next  on  the 
right  is  Keppler  Point,  Bella  VMsta  Lodge,  owned  by 
F.  A.  Bosworth,  of  Milwaukee,  Wis.  This  prtjperty, 
Bella  Vista  Lodge,  was  sold  last  year  to  Mr.  R.  B. 
Chisholm,  of  Cleveland,  O.  Centennial,  now  Nah- 
Mahbin,  meaning  Twin  Island  or  Lakes,  is  owned  by 
Mr.  J.  H.  Oliphant,  of  Brooklyn,  N.  Y.  Comfort,  in 
close  proximity,  is  owned    by    A.   S.    Clark,    of   the 


X 


,<!■ 


I«l 


76 

Chicago,  111.,  Board  of  Trade.  His  is  the  largest  and 
finest  cottage  of  the  group.  Next  is  H.  II.  Warner's 
Island,  upon  vvhirh  ;$5o,ooo  has  been  expended  in  the 
erection  ol  his  new  cottage.  Bey<jnd  this  is  Hill's 
Island,  also  Devil's  Ror  k  and  Oven.  This  gentleman 
has  expended  a  large  amount  of  money  in  building  a 
stone  wall  around  the  same,  and  in  many  ways  beau- 
tifying the  surroundings.  Beyond  is  Louisana  Point, 
owned  by  Judge  I.eBatte,  of  New  Orleans.  Next  on 
the  left  is  Craig's  Nest,  owned  by  II.  A.  Laughlin, 
of  Pittsburg,  Pa.  On  the  riglu  iS  Cuba  Isle,  owned 
by  W.  F.  Storey,  of  Buffalo,  N.  Y.  A  little  further 
on  is  Edgewood  Park,  owned  by  a  Cleveland  stock 
company,  who  erected  an  elegant  hcjtel  whic  li  was 
opened  in  1887,  and  contemplate  many  changes  the 
coming  season  ;  also  Edgewood  Cottage,  owned  by 
G.  C.  Martin,  of  Watertown,  N.  Y.  Next  on  the  right 
is  Cherry  Isle,  upon  which  are  erected  several 
cottages ;  one  is  owned  by  the  Rev.  George  I\(jckwcll, 
of  Fulton,  N.  Y.;  and  J.  T.  Easton's  villa,  of  Brooklyn, 
N.  Y.  Last  season  Mr.  Easton,  of  Brooklyn,  erected 
a  handsome  villa,  called  Stuvvesant  Cottage,  which 
he  occupied  during  the  season.  The  two  large 
cottages  are  owned  by  A.  B.  Pullman  and  C.  B. 
Marsh,  of  Chicago,  III. — named  Ingleside  and  Mel- 
rose Lodge.  Here  the  Hon.  John  A.  Logan  and  wife 
were  entertair.^d  for  several  d;iys  in  1885.  Opposite, 
on  the  left,  is  Pullman,  Nobby,  Friendly,  St.  Elmo, 
V^elcome,  Florence,  Linlithgow  and  fnperial.  'This 
group  may  be  seen  in  the  order  given  ;  beyond  is 
Westminster  Park,  Hart's  Island.  Fairy  Land  and 
Dishler.     \Ve  now  shoot  into 


1 


'    '>    ' 


? 


■'P"-l  J.  "IJSinMMBl 


77 


J 


^      ^ 


ALEXANDRIA  BAY, 

wliich  is  three  or  four  miles  lonyf  and  one  .and  a  half 
miles  wide,  reacliini;;  from  the  shore,  on  the  American 
side,  to  Wells  Island.  The  chief  feature  around  here 
is  the  grand  hotels — the  largest  known  as  i^e 
Thousand  Island  House,  the  finest  building  on  uic 
St.  Lawrence  River,  which  for  the  past  six  years, 
under  the  presidency  cf  R.  II.  Southgate,  Esq.,  and 
his  able  orps  of  assistants,  Fred  W.  Lee,  manager, 
P.  G.  Whipple,  William  Emery  and  D(jd  Dorcy,  has 
been  a  grand  success.  Your  sli.;htest  wish  will  be 
gratified,  and  you  will  be  better  pleased  this  year 
than  ever  before.  From  the  l)ay  fishing  parties  are 
constantly  going  out.  The  channels  about  the 
islands  are  the  Paradise  of  fishermen.  The  boats  are 
the  most  convenient  and  comfcjrtable  in  the  world, 
the  boatmen  the  most  accommodating,  and  the  pickerel, 
pike  and  gamy  black  and  rock  bass  and  muscalonge, 
in  the  greatest  abundance. 


1 


WESTMINSTER  PARK. 

Opposite  the  Thousand  Island  Iluuse  is  Westmin- 
ster Park,  on  the  lower  end  of  Wells  Island.  This 
island  is  eight  miles  long  and  from  three  to  fcnir  miles 
wide.  On  the  other  side  of  this  island  is  the  Cana- 
dian channel  of  the  river,  about  half  a  mile  wide. 
The  lower  end  of  the  island  is  separated  into  two 
parts  by  one  of  the  prettiest  sheets  of  water  that  ever 
rippled  against  the  bows  of  a  canoe.  This  is  called 
the  "  Lake  of  the  Island,"  and  it  is  connected  with  the 
river  on  both  the  American  and  Canadian  sides  bv  a 


4l 


»*==Vjv 


78 

narrow  channel.  The  lake  is  five  or  six  miles  lonpf, 
as  smooth  as  cflass,  and  is  altogether  tc^o  pretty  and 
too  romantic  to  attempt  a  description. 

Westminster  Park  was  boup^ht  in  1874  by  a  Presby- 
terian stock  company,  and  it  now  has  about  15  miles 
of  drives  and  some  fine  buildings.  It  has  two  long 
water  fronts — one  on  the  American  side  of  the  river 
and  the  other  on  tiie  Lake  of  llie  Island,  on  the  Cana- 
dian side.  There  is  a  higli  hill  on  the  island  called 
Mount  Bculah,  though  after  climbing  it  I  think  the 
Hill  Difliculty  would  be  a  more  appropriate  name. 
There  is  a  large  chapel  on  the  top  of  the  hill,  known 
as  Hethune  Chapel,  with  seating  accommodations  for 
a  thousand  persons,  and  with  a  tower  136  feet  high, 
(was  blown  down  in  March,  1885,)  affording  a  beauti- 
ful view  of  the  river  and  the  islands.  The  name  of 
the  chapel  recalls  the  fact  that  the  late  Rev.  Dr.  Geo. 
\V.  Bethune  was  the  pioneer  tourist  through  this 
region,  and  until  his  death  continued  to  come  here 
summer  alter  summer  for  recreation. 


• 


'      i       ' 


BONNIE    CASTLE. 


"Timothy  Titcomb  "  (Dr.  J.  G.  Holland,  editor  of 
Scrihivrs  Monthly)^  chose  this  point  as  a  haven  of  rest 
and  recuperation,  and  who  does  not  commend  his 
choice?  It  will  be  remembered  that  he  died  in  New 
York  shortly  aftei  leaving  his  cherished  Bonnie 
Castle  in  i88i,for  his  arduous  winter's  labors.  Next 
is  The  Ledges,  owned  by  C  J.  Hudson,  of  New  York 
lighthouse  in  the  distance. 


i 


79 


A  LETTER  FROM  MONROE  A.  GREEN. 

This  space  was  formerly  (>ccu|)ie(l  by  a  letter  frotn 
Mr.  Setli  Green,  but  as  he  departed  this  life  hist  year, 
we  utilize  it  vvi'.h  one  from  his  brother,  upon  whose 
shoulder  his  mantle  has  fallen. 


si\rr.  II  sM  MA  I  cur,  in 

Si   I'KKIM'KNDICN  i'n   Oi-I  ICK.    Ml   MIm|;1).    N.    N  ..   .M;ty 


th,   i.Sv 


Mv  Dear  "  Phat   Boy  :" 

Yours,  requesting  a  line  from  me  about  the  mag- 
nificent and  bcMindless  St.  Lawrence  and  its  fisheries, 
received.  For  a  river,  its  size  is  only  measurable  by 
your  own  as  a  fellow- man,  and  the  tourist,  alter  a 
glance  at  you,  can  gain  an  adecjuate  idea  of  the  mag- 
nitude of  the  father  of  rivers.  In  i(S56  I  spent  several 
months  in  fishing  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  in  the  vicinity 
of  Alexandria  Bay.  That  was  before  the  water  had 
been  depleted  or  decreased  in  the  number  ot  finny 
occupants.  Since  that,  on  many  and  many  an  occa- 
sion, I  have  taken  salmon  trout  spawn  for  propagation 
near  Wolf,  Pigeon  Islands  and  Charity  Shoal.  (Jne 
day,  with  a  trolling  spoon  of  my  own  manufacture, 
in  1878,  I  caught  64  salnKjn  trcjut  !  Thirty-four  of 
them  filled  my  boat  so  full  that  I  dare  not  put  another 
one  in  for  fear  of  sinking  the  cralt — and  had  to  go 
ashore  to  unload.  Jonathan  Mason  was  rowins:  for 
me.  To  offset  this  great  catch  I  have  since  put  into 
the  St.  Lawrence  and  its  tributaries  a  million  of 
salmon  and  California  trout,  and  liave  put  millions 
of  whitefish  into  Lake  Ontario.  During  the  season 
of  1880  I  put  in  100,000  California  Mountain  trout. 
Fishermen    without    number   have    written    me    that 


t'  I 


i^i 


8( 


these  efforts  to  restock  tlie  river  luive  l)een  successful. 
Ill  pointine:  out  to  tourists  the  best  fishing:  grounds, 
please  don't  mac^nify  tiiis  tri:e  fish  story,  and  let  your 
patrons  i^aiii  the  iinj)ression  that  I  am  a  man  chosen 
like  yourself  in  corporosity  and  story  tellinu^- 

Voiirs  truly, 

MoNROF.  A.  Grf.kn. 


PARTIES  LEAVING  ALEXANDRIA  BAY 
FOR  MONTREAL  TAKE  DESCRIP- 
TION FROM  HERE. 

Irriiiicdiately  opposite  is  Hart's  Island;  hack  of 
which  is  Heshler.      Next  on  the  left  is 

MANHATTAN. 

the  first  island  on  which  habitation  was  ;ittemj)ted. 
It  was  boiiLi^hl  by  Mr.  Setli  (Ireen,  ihe  fish  culturist  of 
N.  v.,  in  ICS55.  lie  built  a  collai>:e  upon  it  and  for 
several  years  spent  his  sunuiiers  liere.  Mr.  J.  L.  Ilas- 
brouck  and  Judge  .1.  C.  Spencer,  of  New  York,  pur- 
chased it  from  him.  They  have  spent  *  15,000  upon 
the  island.  The  original  cottages  built  by  Set h 
Green  still  remain  and  are  used  by  the  n  as  dinin.^ 
room,  etc. 

Between  Dcshier  and  Manhattan,  looking  back- 
ward, is  Fairyland,  owned  by  C.  II.  and  W.  H.  Ilay- 
dcn,  of  Columbus,  Ohio.  This  is  really  one  of  the 
finest  islands  in  the  river.  At  a  vast  expense  art  has 
triumphed  over  nature,  transforming  a  barren  into 
the  loveliest  of  green  lawns.  Ne\t  on  the  left  is 
Deer  Island  ;  then 


!fgsr^liMWHy»Mi-i  tme.  > 


i 


8i 


SUMMERLAND. 

Suininerliiiul,  one  of  the  most,  beautiful  t^roups  of 
the  "  'rhoMSJind  IshitMl."  is  h)(:;ue(l  tni(l-\v;iv  between 
the  north  and  south  channels  of  the  St.  I/uvrence, 
about  three  miles  below  Alexandria  Bay,  havint^  an 
area  of  tourteen  acres,  and  is  the  larircst  of  the  "Sum- 
merland  t^roup,"  which  includes  "Idlewild,"  "Spdrt," 
"Ida,"  and  "Arcadia."  The  islaiul  is  covered  wiiha 
dense  forest  (furn"shin<:;  an  abundance  of  shade)  and 
is  said  to  have  tin  finest  u^roves  on  the  river.  At  the 
extreme  northerl  and  southerly  ends  of  the  island 
there  are  extensive  sandy  beaches,  a  great  rariiv  in 
this  l(jcality,  which  an;  used  by  the  "Summerlanders" 
for  bathini^  purposes.  The  island  is  traversed  from 
end  to  end  by  the  most  deliu^htful  natural  aveiuie, 
denselv  shaded  and  lined  on  either  side  with  a  thi(;k 
underi^rowth  of  wild  llowers  and  ferns.  The  island 
is  owned  by  the  Siimmerland  Association,  a  corpora- 
tion oru^ani/ed  under  and  by  virtue  of  the  laws  of  the 
State  of  New  York. 

Hetween  Deer  Island  and  Summerland  is  Cedar  ; 
back  of  Cedar  is  S[)ort,  owned  by  the  estate  of  II.  A. 
Packer,  who  died  in  1SS4.  The  island,  however,  will 
be  occupied  this  year  by  II.  C.  Wilbur,  who  has  pur- 
chased the  Packers'  interest.  Anthony  Point  is  on 
the  ripjht.  Also  The  Ledges,  owned  by  J.  C.  Hudson, 
of  New  York.  This  place  is  the  resort  of  E.  and  T. 
II.  Anthony,  the  extensive  dealers  in  plujtographic 
goods  in  New  Y(jrk. 

Still  continuing  (jur  course  hjoking  to  the  right,  is 
the  cottage  of  Mrs.  Clark,  of  Watertown.  Next, 
Goose  Bay  is  the  island  owned  by  Dr.  Carleton,  near 


r 


"m 


82 


wliicli  is  the  Three  Sisters'  Isl.-ind  ;  before  the  Tliree 
Sisters'  is  Hume's  Island.  Next,  on  the  left,  is 
Whiskey  Island,  and  on  the  right  opposite,  are  a 
number  of  hirii^e  and  small  islands,  the  names  of 
wliich  we  will  not  weary  the  tourist's  brain  with. 

Goose  Bay  is  really  beautiful,  if  its  name  is  slightly 
homely.  It  is  studded  with  islands  and  fishing 
abounds.  It  is  here  that  Mr.  Hubert  R.  Clark,  of  New 
York,  in  one  day  caught  some  300  pounds  of  black 
bass,  ranging  in  weight  from  i^'j  pounds  to  6}i 
pounds. 

On  the  right  is  Lyon's  dock  and  Meeker's  Island. 
Next,  on  the  left  is  Three  Sisters  Light;  in  the 
Distance  is  Lone  Star,  or  Dark  Island  ;  Island  No.  10, 
it  is  called  by  some.  After  passing,  on  the  left  is 
a  small  cluster  of  island  shoals.  On  the  right  is 
Chipp(  wa  Hay.  This  is  a  superb  sheet  of  water,  where 
the  fishing  is  a  marked  feature.  It  is  a  favorite  resort 
of  Ogdensburg  people,  who  occupy  the  contiguous 
islands.  This  property,  ''Chippewa  Point''  and  Allen's 
Park  and  dock,  has  been  purchased  by  a  wealthy 
syndicate  who  propose  erecting  a  commodious  II(jtel 
and  each  member  building  for  his  own  use  a  liand- 
scjme  villa.  I  look  to  see  this  the  grandest  resort 
among  the  Thousand  Islands.  All  around  the  shore 
are  catnps,  cottages,  etc.,  and  make  an  animated  scene 
for  the  tourist.  Three  miles  from  Chippewa  Hay  on 
the  left  is  Cros  .»ver  light  ;  thence,  three  miles  to 
Cole's  light  on  the  left,  where  we  enter  the  Canadian 
«:hannel.  Nine  miles  in  the  distance  is  Brockville. 
On  the  right  opposite  Cole's  light  is  Oak  point. 
Helow  is  Allen's  landing,  a  very  popular  place  for 
picnics,  etc.  On  the  left,  a  prominent  bluff.  On  the 
right   for  six  miles  the  islands  come  thick  and   fast  ; 


83 

liuge  rocks  rise  from  the  water's  surface,  witli  very 
little  vegetati(jn  or  foliage,  and  the  boat  makes  her 
way  rapidly  amonp;  them,  winding  around  like  a 
snake,  heading  for  all  the  points  of  the  compass, 
frequently  getting  herself  into  coves  and  bays  that 
a})parently  liave  no  outlet,  but  aUvays  finding  a 
channel,  and  sailing  triuEhphantly  out  into  the  broad 
waters  again. 

A  little  beyond  is  St.  Lawrence  Park,  used  for 
pleasure  and  picnic  parties,  especially  by  our  Canadian 
friends  of  Brockville.  We  are  now  at  the  village  of 
Hrockville. 

In  front  of  Brockville  are  the  last  three  of  the 
Thousand  Islands;  being  some  distance  from  tlie  rest 
it  is  i)resumable  they  drifted  away,  and  finally 
rooted  here.  This,  however,  was  "long  befo'  de 
wah  I 

Opposite,  on  the  right,  is  Morristown,  a  small, 
lively  American  village,  of  about  1,000  inhabitants,  a 
station  on  the  Utica  and  Black  River  R.  R.,  connects 
with  Brcjckville  bv  two  steam  ferries. 


\ 


BROCKVILLE    . 

was  named  in  honor  of  General  Brock,  wIkj  fell  in 
the  battle  of  Oueenstown  Heights  in  1812.  It  is 
situated  on  tlie  Canadian  side  of  the  St.  Lawrence 
River,  and  is  one  of  the  pleasantest  villages  in  the 
Province.  It  lies  at  the  foot  of  the  Thousand  Islands 
on  an  elevation  of  land  which  rises  from  the  river  in 
a  succession  of  ridges.  The  town  was  laid  out  in 
1802,  and  is  now  a  place  of  considerable  importance. 
The  present  population  is  about  10,000. 


I 


84 


Allcr  IcMvinsi:  ilic  wli.'irf,  the  boat  passes  the  most 
beaiilifiil  clilT  on  the  river,  the  Palisades  of  the  St. 
LawreiH  e,  on  which  are  erected  iiiau^nificeiU  mansions 
and    siil)url)an     residences    and     villas    of    Canada's 

ost    prominent  of  these  is 


(listinLrnished  sons. 


Tl 


le    m( 


the  son  of  Sir  Utii^h  Allen,  whose  residence  is  really 
superb.  The  sijj^htseer  can  observe  the  wind  ni^  stairs, 
boat  and  bath  houses  and  other  appointments  f(jr 
recreation. 

Havinu:  Icll  I>ro<-k  ville,  a  rnatrnificent  view  t^reets 
tlie  eve;  islands  are  not  now  in  view  ;  the  river  is  a 
most  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  runniiiLi;'  perfectly 
straii^ht  for  about  sixteen  miles  with  the  land  on 
either  side  in  i;ood  view,  for  the  rivet  is  a  little  over 
tw(j  miles  wide.  Three  miles  from  .Morristown,  on 
the  rii^ht,  is  a  camp  t^round  of  the  Baptist  i)ersuasion, 
mostly  from  St.  I.awrenc  e  County.  I^'ive  miles  on 
the  left  fr(/m  lirockville  is  Maitland.  At  this  point 
is  a  prominent  object  known  as  the  olil  distillery, 
wliose  proprietor  is  said  to  have  been  worth,  at  (jne 
time,  a  million  dollars,  but  whose  cupidity  during- 
*' America's  unpleasantness"  led  him  into  sellint; 
*'crooked  whiskey,"  or  rather  disposing  (.f  his  dis- 
tillery products  in  a  very  "crotjked  "  way.  Without 
j^oini^  into  the  details,  the  facts  in  brief  are:  lie 
antagonized  the  Canadian  i^overnment  in  the  matter 
of  payini"^  revenue,  and  in  his  fight  for  stupid 
supremacy,  he  not  only  hjst  liis  distillery,  but  his 
fortune  too,  and  he  and  his  family  became  reduced  to 
poverty,  and  none  of  them  remain  ar(Mind  tlicn 
former  home.  It  is  said  he  first  induced  his  nir  ''.  ic 
marry  the  revenue  collector  of  the  district,  th..'  Ii;; 
might  carry  on  the  nefarious  business  in  collusion 
and  without  dete(  tion,  but,  you  see, 


I 


85 


•*  riie  dcip  laid  plan-;  of  time  and  iiicii  ,U''iii<  aft  ai;lt'f.'" 

About  four  miles  below,  on  tiie  left,  is  the  old  blue 
stone  church,  in  the  i^ravevard  of  which  rests  the 
remains  of  the  founder  of  Methodism  on  this  conti- 
nent, Barbara  Ileck.  One  mile  farther,  on  the  left,  is 
McCarthy's  new  brick  brewery.     Half  a  mile  beyond 

^  ^  ^ 

is  the  celebrated  Rysdick  slock  farm,  owned  by  I.  P. 
Wiser,  M.  P.  Here  is  owned  the  (  elel)rate(l  stallion 
Rysdick,  which  cost  Mr.  Wiser  ^25,000.  Ii  is  a  farm 
of  about  six  hundred  acres,  and  is  un({ue>tioiiably 
the  finest  stock  farm  in  the  Dominion  of  Canada. 
The  thrift,  enere^y  and  ability  of  this  *^entletiian  will 
not  be  wondered  at  when  it  is  learned  that  he  is  of 
American  birth.  Next,  on  the  left,  is  the  (elebrated 
Labatt's  brewery  and 

PRESCOTT, 

with  its  3, coo  inhabitants,  who  seem  to  haye  lost  their 
i^rip  on  the  trade  of  ilu;  riyer,  judtyinij^  from  tiie 
tlilapidated  condition  of  tiie  stores,  warehouses,  etc., 
on  the  wharyes.  The  town,  howeyer,  is  handsomely 
laid  out,  has  a  fine  city  hall  and  market,  and  there  are 
many  fine  priyate  residences.  It  is  connected  with 
Ottawa,  capital  of  the  Dominion,  by  tlie  Canada 
Pacific  Railroad,  St.  Lawrence  and  Ottawa  Railroad 
Branch,  distance  54  miles.  Here  many  tourists  who 
desire  to  yisit  the  capital  disembark  for  that  purpose. 
We  refer  tiie  tourist  to  Daniels'  hotel  as  a  i^ood  stop- 
pinir  place.  L.  II.  Daniels  has  taken  the  hotel  and 
spent  $S,ooo  in  improyements ;  he  is  too  well  kn<jwn 
to  the  trayeling  public  to  need  any  praise  from  me. 
Opposite  is 


.1 


i<t#\*ip<'iW^Vrx«-X«'.\  c 


86 


OGDENSBURG, 

foinulcd  by  Francis  Picqiiit  in  May,  1749.  It  now 
<:()ntains  about  15,000  people,  and  of  course  ranks  as 
a  city.  It  is  the  terminus  of  the  Rome  and  Water- 
town,  Utica  and  Hlack  River,  and  the  ( )i^densbur<r 
and  Lake  Champhiin  railroads.  It  is  beautifully  l.iid 
oiu,  well  planted  with  maple  trees,  and  is  called  the 
"Maple  City."  It  has  a  United  States  Custom  House, 
post-olln'e,  and  a  new  opera  house,  costine^  ^15,000, 
six  line  church  edifices,  water  works,  trjis  works,  a 
lire  alarm  telegraph  and  two  daily  newspapers,  and 
possibly  other  modern  improvements.  At  the  lower 
end  of  the  town  are  the  biu;  elevators  of  the  Oy^dens- 
burL(  and  Lake  (^hami)lain  Railroad,  now  owned  by 
the  Central  Vermont  Railroad.  .NLany  tourists  start 
from  here  in  the  mi)rninu^,  rcachinu^  every  point  in 
the  White  Mountains  before  tea  time. 

One  mile  and  a  half  below  Prescott  on  the  left,  is 
Windmill  Point  ;  the  old  windmill  has  been  turned 
into  a  lii^lithouse.  Here,  in  1837,  the  "  Patriots," 
under  Von  Shultz,  a  Polish  exile,  established  them- 
selves, but  from  vvhicl;  they  were  driven  with  severe 
loss.  We  believe  this  Von  Schultz  was  subsccjucntly 
hung  by  the  Canadian  authorities,  and  his  followers 
b'.mished,  probably  to  New  Jersey.  On  the  left,  a 
liitle  below  the  lighthouse,  is  the  residence  and  farm 
of  \V.  IL  McOannon,  the  uldeGl  piiwi  v,i.  liic  Si.  L.iw- 
rence  river,  the  man  who  first  took  t'tie  Passport,  of 
the  Richelieu  line,  down  the  Long  Sault  Rapids,  in 
July,  1847.  I  am  also  indebted  to  liim  for  the  correct- 
ness of  my  New  Map  of  the  St.  Lawrence  and  other 
information  of  benefit  to  me  and  the  public. 


t      <       I 
> 


,  I 


87 

Three  miles  below,  on  ihe  left,  is  Johnstown  Hay, 
with  Johnstown — not  a  very  important  trading;  post — 
overlooking.  This  place  has  a  custom  house  officer, 
commissioner  of  fisheries,  mayor  and  marshal  of  the 
district ;  but  these  important  officials  arc  concentrated 
in  one  man. 

We  turn  here  to  the  rit^ht,  leavinc^  the  far-famed 
Chimney  Island  on  tlie  left,  on  which  are  said  to  be 
the  ruins  of  old  French  forts,  battlements,  etc.  Tiie 
only  remains  we  have  discovered  of  these  supposed 
formidable  defences  is  an  extensive  moat  around  the 
island,  twelve  feet  dee[),  filled  with  water.  The 
chimney,  from  which  it  derives  its  name,  is  supposed 
to  be  on  the  island,  l)ut  we  have  looked  in  vain  to 
discover  it.  It  may  be,  however,  that  it  has  floated 
dovvn  the  river;  we  will  speak  of  it  further  on. 

In  the  distance,  on  the  left,  are  Tick  or  Pier 
Islands.  S(jme  of  tlie  finest  bass  fishinc;-  in  the  river 
is  off  this  (jld  pier.  Dr.  Melville,  of  Prescott,  the 
inventor  of  rheumatic  victor,  and  an  enthusiastic 
fisherman  of  this  section,  last  summer  caught  a  black 
bass  weighing  seven  and  one  half  pounds  while 
enjoying  the  sport  around  the  pier. 

Three  miles  from  Chimney  Island,  in  the  distance, 
is  what  is  termed  "the  cut,"  forming  the  channel 
between  (ralop  and  Moore's  islands.  It  was  the 
former  channel  of  this  line  of  boats,  but  the  Dominion 
government  is  expetjdini;^  six  million  ui  dollars  for 
the  enlargment  of  the  canals  of  this  route,  and  the 
survey  party  at  present  are  blasting  a  (  hannel  through 
the 

GALOP  RAPID, 

which  may  be  seen   in  the   distance.     The   reason  of 
the  change  of  channel  is  formed  with  an  edict  of  the 


1 


ss 


pilots  not  to  interfere  with  the  work  of  the  eni^ineer 
corps  eni;at;e(i  on  this  necessary  improvement  of 
excsivatinii;  a  lifleen  foot  (hannel,  to  allow  larger 
boats  to  pass,  and  dispense  with  the  use  of  tlie 
Kdwardshiiri;  canal.  This  is  the  lirst  and  smallest 
rapid  on  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  and  as  ti>e  Phal  Hoy 
lias  termed  it,  "a  little  one  for  a  cent."  I  will,  how- 
ever, t(ive  you  an  idea  of  what  the  rapids  are.  All 
the  rapMds  on  this  river  are  caused  by  numerous  rocks, 
large  and  small,  in  the  bed  of  the  river,  and  the  swift 
current  of  water  passing  over  these  rocks,  causes  the 
fearful  commcjtion  that  you  observe.  Now,  U)  carry 
our  philosophy  a  little  farther,  we  say  the  larger  the 
rock  and  the  stronger  the  current  the  better  the 
rapids.  No  rocks,  no  water,  no  current,  no  rapids! 
This  ((jmmotion  which  ycju  see  here  is  caused  by  a 
ledge  of  rocks  live  and  one-half  feet  in  height  under 
nine  feet  of  water.  Vou  can  sec  the  swell  and  white 
cap  which  this  rock  occasions,  and  then  use  your  best 
jtidgmenl  to  determine  the  height  (jf  the  rocks  in 
Long  Sault,  where  we  hope  to  arrive  at  one  o'clock. 
(There  are,  let  me  state  here,  eight  rapids  on  our  trip 
to-day,  which  may  be  divided  into  two  classes,  first 
and  second.  The  first  class  are  L(jng  Sault,  meaning 
a  long  leap  or  jump  ;  Cedar,  deriving  its  name  from 
the  trees  in  the  vicinity,  and  Lachine.  The  second 
class  is  Galop,  meaning  a  hopping,  jumping  rapid  ; 
Rapid  Piatt,  meaning  in  French,  fiat  ;  Chateau  du 
Li'.c,  meaning  foot  of  the  Lake  ;  Split  Rock,  derived 
f:om  a  fissure  whicli  makes  the  channel,  and  the 
Cascade,  from  its  resemblance  to  a  cascade.) 

On  the  left,  before  arriving  at  the  Galop  rapids,  is 
the  entrance  to  the  Kdwardsburg  canal.  This  canal 
is  seven  and  one-half  miles  in  length,  and  is  the  first 


■ 


.S9 

Ciuial  vvc  arrive  at  ;  its  leriiiiniis  is  at  Irocjuois.  It 
vvuiild  l)e  vvx'll  liere  to  say  that  wc  only  liave  canals 
;iroiinfl  the  rapids,  or  where  the  current  is  too  stronij^ 
for  a  steamer  to  asceiul.  We  liere  .ipj^enil  a  tabular 
statement  of  the 


J 


' 


ST.  LAWRENCE  CANALS. 

Edwardsbiircf  canal,  7'j  miles  lone^,  three  loc:ks,  14 
feet  fall  in  the  river;  Morrisburir  cunaj,  j  miles  lorit(, 
2  locks,  11^6  feet  fall  ;  Farron's  Point  cMnal,  ?^  mile 
loni;,  I  lock.  4  feet  fall;  Cornwall  Canal.  12  miles 
loni^,  7  locks,  4S  feet  fall  ;  Heatiharnois  canal,  11)^ 
miles  lonj;',  9  locks,  84  feet  fall;  L;ichine  canal,  9 
miles  lon^,  5  locks,  45  feel  fall. 

In  the  distance,  on  the  lelt,  is  the  villai^e  of  ICdwards- 
bnrtr,  now  called  Cardinal.  .Here  is  locale  I  the 
Edwardsbiiru:  starch  factory,  the  lari(est  in  the 
Dominion  of  Canada.  The  j)resident  (^f  the  company 
is  the  1^  /a.  Walter  Shanlev,  of  II  xisac  Tiinnel  fame. 
He  was  ihe  great  coniracior  wii)  conpleted  that 
wonderful  piece  of  work,  and  is  now  manatifer  of  the 
St.  fvawrence  and  Ottawa  Railroad. 

Twenty  minutes  from  Kdwardsburj^  to  the  ne.\t 
point  of  interest. 

Distinguished  among  Indian  names  is  that  of 
Iroquois.  Here  it  names  a  village,  formerly  known 
as  Matilda;  but,  like  all  other  good  Matildas  do,  she 
changed  her  name  li)  Irocjuois,  in  order  to  preserve 
the  name.  The  Iroquis  Indians  formerly  owned  this 
section  of  country.  One  and  a  half  miles  below  this 
village,  is  the  narrowest  point  in  the  at.  Lawrence 
River,  from  Kingston  to  the  gulf.  This  broad  expanse 
of  water  we  are  just  passing,  and  the  one  we  arrive  at 


,,.< 


I'' 

it 

Ik 


90 

imiiicdialcly  after  Icavintj;  the  point,  are  very  shallow, 
consecjiiently  fu>l(ls  the  water  in  check  at  the  point — 
the  depth  ol  water  in  the  shallow  places  beinjr  about 
22  feet,  while  at  the  point  it  is  S4  feet.  Width  of  the 
river  1,140  feet  —  I'^o  feet  less  than  a  (piarier  of  a 
mile. 

On  the  riejht  in  the  narrowest  portion  of  the  river  is 
Cedar  Point.  On  the  left  is  a  sinall  bluff,  formerly 
called  Hemlock  Point,  on  account  of  a  line  hemlock 
standini^  there;  but  on  one  line  mornini(  the  hemlock, 
the  tree  «'ind  the  point  ail  slid  into  the  river,  and  have 
not  yet  returned.  About  fifteen  feet  back  from  the 
point  is  a  rail  fence,  which  is  outside  of  the  earth- 
works that  were  tiirown  up  in  iSi  j-13,  and  batteries 
were  erected  on  Cedar  Point. 

On  the  left  is  the  main  shore  of  the  Dominion  of 
Canada,  with  a  population  of  over  six  millions.  On 
the  riii^lu  is  the  main  shore  of  the  United  States  of 
America,  with  a  population  of  over  sixty  millions. 
When  the  six  millions  want  the  sixty  millions  all 
they  will  be  obliged  to  do  is  to  walk  over  and  take 
tliem.  Then  will  be  verilieil  that  beautiful  passai^e  in 
Holy  Writ  which  says,  "One  shall  chase  a  thouspnd 
and  two  put  ten  thousand  to  Might."     Sing  ! 

Tills  was  really  a  strong  pjint,  and  v;as  fortified  on 
both  sides  of  the  river  by  the  opposing  parties.  From 
the  fact  of  the  successful  fortification  by  the  Ameri- 
cans the  Ride-ui  Canal  owes  its  origin.  Guns  and 
stores  or  merchandise  could  not  be  taken  up  the  river. 
It  was  conceived  by  Colonel  By,  of  the  engineer  corps, 
that  a  new  canal  would  obviate  the  dilliculty,  and  all 
his  resources  were  immediately    put  into  recpiisition, 


9' 

and  the  canal  was  completed  at  a  cost  of  $5,000,000. 
It  extends  from  Ottawa,  formerly  iiy-town,  to  KiniJ^s- 
ton,  and  is  still  in  use. 

Ten  minutes  from  here  to  the  next  point  of  interest. 
On  the  left  is  the  entrance  to  the  Morrisburpj  Canal, 
the  second  canal  in  the  chain,  but  it  is  not  used  by 
this  line  of  boats.  All  tows  and  sailinii^  vessels  have 
to  use  the  canals.  In  the  distant  front  is  Rapid  IMalt; 
on  the  ri^ht  is  Ot>;<len's  Island,  the  finest  wooded 
island  in  the  St.  Lawrence  River.  Meyond  is  Wad- 
dinij^lon,  St.  Lawrence  county,  N.  V.  In  front  is  this 
rapid  we  have  just  named  ;  it  is  the  second  one,  and 
is  "a  little  one  for  two  cents."  It  has,  however,  eiy^ht 
feet  more  descent  than  the  first,  but  is  only  a  one  cent 
dcsce titer  rapid. 


MORRISBURG. 

After  passinu^  the  poiiu,  Morrisliurg  comes  into  view 
(ill  the  left — the  prettiest  villac^e  in  the  Dominion  of 
Canada.  Look  at  its  churches,  public  buildinc^s, 
private  residences,  and  Motels  (the  St.  Lawrence  Ilall 
is  kept  by  W.  II.  McCannon  &  Brothers,  and  I  can 
say  cheerfully  no  better  hotel  in  town),  that  tj^reet  the 
eye,  for  we  are  still  in  the  Province  oTOntario.  At 
half  past  three  o'clock  we  enter  the  Province  (T 
()uebec.  Vou  will  have  a  cfood  chance  then  to  com- 
pare  the  difference  between  the  two  Provinces.  Your 
especial  attention  is  called  to  this  now,  that  you  may 
be  prepared  to  scan  the  chanij^e  you  will  not  fail  to 
observe.  Before  reachine^  Mtjrrisburi^  is  Doran's 
Island,  which  was  rented  by  Mr.  Oz  Doran  of  the  St. 
Rcii^is  Indians  for  one  dollar  per  year,  and  they  come 
every  year  60  miles  to  collect  one  dollar.     A  railroad 


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Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)872-4S03 


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92 

bridge  was  to  have  been  completed  at  this  point 
during  tiie  present  year.  Opposite  Morrisburg  is 
Dry  Island,  used  for  picnics,  etc. 

One  hour  from  this  point  to  the  Long  Sault  Rapids. 
We  speak  of  this  liere,  for  it  is  about  dinner  time, 
and  if  you  are  lucky  enough  to  secure  a  seat  at  the 
first  table  you  will  lose  no  point  of  interest,  for  it  is 
presumable  you  will  finish  within  the  hour. 

THE  CUISINE  ON  THE  BOAT. 

It  will  not  be  amiss  here  to  state  that  the  meals 
were  formerly  served  on  the  American  plan,  in  the 
upper  saloon,  and  to  give  you  but  a  faint  idea  of  the 
commotion  created  by  the  passengers  when  there  was 
one  more  person  on  board  than  seats  at  the  i:able, 
would  require  a  volume  ten  times  this  size  to  describe. 
Therefore,  please  excuse  me  if  I  relate  by  way  of 
illustration  what  an  eminent  writer  said  on  the  sub- 
ject:  "The  waiters,  like  little  puppets,  would  bob  up 
serenely  at  any  time  and  place,  drop  a  dish  or  what- 
ever the  hand  contained,  and  were  as  soon  out  of 
sight.  This  continued  for  about  one  hour,  while  we 
were  seated  back  against  the  cabin  wall,  with  just 
space  enough  for  tlie  waiter  to  pass  between  us  and 
the  table.  When  the  signal  was  given  everybody 
made  a  rush  for  tiie  table,  and  if  the  scene  depicted 
could  only  be  described  humorously  or  othe''wise» 
I  would  like  to  read  it."  But  the  writer  said  it 
reminded  him  of  the  famous  picture  in  her  Majesty's 
gallery,  "  The  rape  of  the  Sabines."  (I  have  never 
seen  the  picture,  but  presume  it  is  that  of  a  beautiful 
female  poised  as  a  central  figure,  and  about  ten  soldiers 
ready  to  embrace  her    on    a  given  signal.)     Things 


93 


<        »       I 


have  changed,  however,  and  this  season  the  meals 
will  be  served  on  the  American  plan,  run  by  the  com- 
pany, who  have  secured  the  best  stewards,  etc.,  to 
superintend  the  service,  to  the  end  that  everyone  may 
be  pleased.  The  upper  saloon  will  not  be  used,  but 
what  was  formerly  known  as  the  ladies'  cabin,  and 
the  cabin  below,  has  been  refitted,  containing  ample 
table  room  for  everybody,  and  will  be  the  dining 
rooms  ;  there  have  also  been  added  a  new  kitchen, 
steam  tables,  etc.,  which  gives  the  whole  saloon  as  a 
promenade  and  place  of  repose  and  rest  for  the  pas- 
sengers. I  am  positive  the  change  will  be  acceptable. 
About  a  mile  below  Morrisburg,  on  the  right,  is 
Gooseneck  Island,  so  called  from  its  resemblance 
to  the  neck  of  a  goose  ;  the  upper  end  is  the  neck  ; 
the  narrative  is  about  nine  miles  long.  P'ive  miles 
from  Morrisburg  to 


CHRYSLER'S  FARM, 

memorable  for  the  battle  fought  on  this  ground  in  the 
year  1813.  The  Americans  were  the  attacking  party 
on  this  occasion,  having  arisen  early  in  the  morning, 
crossed  the  river  into  the  little  bay,  landed,  and  imme- 
diately gone  into  the  contest  by  attacking  the  little 
house.  The  fight  was  desperate,  lasting  until  eleven 
o'clock,  when  the  Americans,  under  General  Williams, 
were  repulsed  with  great  slaughter.  The  house  was 
completely  riddled  with  bullets.  It  has  since  been 
torn  down  and  the  chimney  left  as  a  monument  to  the 
battle.  They  retreated  in  good  order,  re-crossed  the 
river  and  remained,  having  abandoned  the  trip  to 
Montreal,  which  they  intended.  I  draw  this  mild 
because  1  am  one  of  "God's  people"  myself. 


i 


i  i- 


94 

Next  in  interst  is  Farron's  Point,  opposite  which 
is  Croyl's  Island.  Six  minutes  from  here  to  Long 
Saiilt  Rapids  ;  we  pass  on  the  left  Harrison's  Landing. 

LONG  SAULT  ISLAND. 

At  this  point  there  are  really  two  channels,  the 
American  channel  being  on  the  right  of  Long  Sault 
Island,  tiie  rapids  forming  the  Canadian  channel,  and 
are  on  the  left  of  the  Island.  The  distinguishing 
feature  about  the  American  channel  is,  while  it  is 
swift  in  current,  it  has  no  rapids  worthy  of  note,  and 
the  channel  is  used  for  tows,  etc.,  and  all  the  rafts 
naturally  prefer  this  way,  because  it  would  be  impos- 
sible for  them  to  go  down  the  Long  Sault. 

In  the  distant  front  observe  a  light-house  at  the  head 
of  the  Cornwall  canal.  This  canal  is  twelve  miles  in 
length,  and  passes  around  the  Long  Sault  Rapids. 

The  boats  are  steered  from  landmarks  on  shore,  by 
that  small  ball  you  see  on  the  end  of  the  pole,  which 
is  the  bow-sprit.  The  target  that  you  see  in  the  dis- 
tance is  used  by  the  pilot  to  get  his  position  in  Long 
Sault  Rapids.  I'hese  targets  will  be  seen  frequently 
as  you  progress,  and  as  they  all  answer  the  same  pur- 
pose, this  reference  to  them  will  suffice. 

LONG  SAULT  RAPIDS. 

Dickinson's  Landing,  on  the  left,  was  formerly  a 
very  important  point  on  this  line,  as  it  was  the  foot 
of  navigation  before  the  canal  was  completed,  some 
forty  years  ago.  Few  changes  have  taken  place  since, 
that  are  apparent  to  the  eye.  The  Long  Sault  is  the 
first  one  of  the  first-class  rapids,  and  the  third  one  in 
line  proceeding  down  the  river,  and  as  we  set  a  price 


' 


95 

on  the  other  two  you  can  set  your  own  price  on  this 
one.  A  description  of  these  rapids  has  been  given 
from  time  immemorial  ;  it  does  not  behoove  us  to 
give  any  graphic  or  colored  description  of  this  scene, 
altliough  we  might  do  so  satisfactorily,  having  seen 
depicted  on  the  countenances  of  thousands  of  passen- 
gers who  have  passed  this  way  everything  in  nature, 
from  the  sublime  to  the  ridiculous,  as  well  as  between 
the  two.,  and  as  each  individual's  feelings  differ,  no 
one  description  would  do  the  subject  justice.  One 
writer  said  :  "  It  was  sliding  down  hill  on  a  steam- 
boat." Another  said  he  felt  ''.s  if  he  was  being  luiglued ! 
A  third  said  he  felt  as  if  he  had  taken  a  large  dose  of 
ipecac.  Still  another,  as  if  he  was  on  a  ship  at  sea  in 
a  storm.  And  yet  one  more  was  so  exhilarated  that 
he  imagined  he  owned  Maud  S.  and  would  like  to 
speud  his  days  on  the  rapids.  Another  party  who  had 
ridiculed  the  trip  a  good  deal,  until  the  spray  began 
to  cover  the  deck,  wetting  them  to  the  skin,  drench- 
ing their  store  clothes,  which,  when  dried,  revealed 
awkward  misfits,  exclaimed  that  "it  was  the  grandest 
sight  they  ever  witnessed." 

I  could  enlarge  upon  other  descriptions,  but  prefer 
to  give  the  Phat  Boy  a  privilege  to  relate  a  few  facts 
— no  *' taffv."  All  the  boats  of  this  line  are  built  of 
Bessemer  steel  or  iron,  with  three  and  one-half  inches 
of  elm  riveted  close  to  the  iron  on  the  bottom  outside 
to  prevent  accidents  if  we  should  strike  against  a  rock. 
This  precaution  was  found  necessary,  because  the 
first  iron  boat  that  struck  a  rock  became  a  total 
wreck.  With  the  protection  of  elm  no  injury  has 
resulted  from  the  occasional  striking  of  the  boats 
against  the  rocks.  There  is  no  danger,  however,  in 
this  rapid,  for  the  water  in    the   shallowest    place  is 


III 

hi 


1. 
Ill 


ill 


96 


F  *• 


thirteen  and  one-half  feet,  and  we  are  drawing  about 
seven  feet.  During  our  passage  through  all  the  rapids, 
we  have  four  men  at  the  wheel  and  four  men  at  the 
tiller  aft,  who  assist  the  men  at  the  wheel.  Any  acci- 
dent that  should  happen  to  the  chain  ,>r  the  wheel, 
the  pilot  immediately  goes  to  the  right  hand  of  the 
tiller. 

The  Long  Sault  Rapid  is  nine  miles  long  ;  three 
miles  of  boisterous  commotion;  six  miles  of  current 
and  sudden  sharp  turns.  When  we  first  enter  the 
rapid  the  steam  on  board  of  the  boat  is  slowed  down 
until  she  gets  her  position  in  the  rapids,  as  she  draws 
less  water  than  when  under  full  head  of  steam.  We 
are  then  compelled  to  put  on  full  steam,  as  the  boat 
must  go  faster  than  the  current  in  order  to  obtain 
Steerage  way.  Many  suppose  that  no  steam  is  used 
through  the  rapids,  which  is  an  error.  If  we  were  to 
attempt  to  go  down  without  any  propelling  power, 
we  would  be  at  the  mercy  of  the  current  of  this  stu- 
pendous agitation  called  rapids.  One  couldn't  tell 
which  end  of  the  boat  would  be  first,  and  it  is  pre- 
sumable tha<^  this  would  be  anything  but  pleasant  to 
the  passenger,  for  she  would  go  down  the  same  as  a 
log  ;  no  one  could  tell  which  end  of  the  boat  would 
be  first — anything  but  pleasure  to  the  passengers. 

When  we  first  enter  this  rapid,  the  finest  view  is 
obtained  on  the  right  side  of  the  boat.  It  is  expected, 
however,  that  the  passengers  will  distribute  them- 
selves equally  on  either  side  to  keep  the  boat  in  good 
trim — the  captain  generally  uses  the  ''  Phat  Boy  "  for 
this  purpose  ;  when  he  is  not  on  board  the  passengers 
are  expected  to  distribute  themselves.  The  view, 
however,  soon  changes  to  the  left,  and  when  nearing 


t 


97 

the  point  the  swell  and  white  caps  run  from  seven  to 
eleven  feet  in  height. 

We  have  already  explained  the  cause  of  the  rapids. 
Now,  will  any  one  please  explain  to  rne  what  is  the 
height  of  the  rocks  which  create  this  commotion,  and 
at  the  same  time  set  their  price  on  this  rapid.     After 
passing  this  point  and  the  swell  and  white  caps  that 
we  have  been  describing,  on  the  left  is  the  passage  to 
the   Canadian    channel    of    this    river,    which    forms 
Earnhardt's  Island.     On   the  right   is   the   American 
channel.      This   was  formerly  used  by  boats    before 
they  came  down   the  Long   Sault,  which  for  a  long 
time  was  known  as  the  lost  channel.     This  channel 
having  been  lost  for  some  years,  it  was  discovered  by 
Captain    Rankin,    who    received    for    that    service    a 
maenificent  silver  watch,  the  value  of  which  at  the 
present  day  would   be  about  $6.50.     The  first   steam- 
boat of  this  line  that  passed  through  the  Long  Sault, 
was  the  Passport  (this  year  the  New  Passport  takes 
her  place  in   the  line),  in  1847,  and  the  pilot  was  W. 
H.  McGanon,  who  is  still   in  the  employ  of    the  com- 
pany.    The  soundings  were  made  by  scows  and  rafts, 
with  poles  attached   to  the   sides,  of  8  to    15  feet   in 
length,  and  as  either  of  these  met  an  obstruction  and 
became  dislodged  or   broken    off,  the   depth  of    the 
water  was  ascertained  and  a  record  made.     The  pro- 
pelling power  of  these  scows  or  rafts  was  oars  or 
large  paddles,  worked  by  from  10  to  40   men  as  the 
necessities  of  each  required. 

The  steamer  Gill  was  the  first  boat  through  the 
rapids,  and  went  down  more  by  accident  than  other- 
wise, but  it  demonstrated  the  certainty  of  a  channel. 

Earnhardt's  Island,  on  the  left,  7>^  miles  in  length 
by  4>4  miles  in  width,  belongs  to  the  United  States 


'f'-'i 

i'i 

IT 


.fi)* 


U  I 


98 

On  the  right  is  the  main  land,  St.  Lawrence  County, 
\.  V.  Hotri  sides  of  the  river  for  the  next  seven 
miles  belong  to  the  United  States.  The  King  of 
Holland,  wIkj  was  the  arbitrator  of  the  treaty  of  1S12, 
from  charts,  maps,  etc.,  furnished  him,  supposed  that 
the  main  channel  of  the  river  passed  around  that 
island  on  the  left.  He  was  mistaken,  however;  this 
is  the  main  channel  of  the  river,  and  the  only  navi- 
gable one;  the  Canadian  channel  containing  only 
about  3'.'  or  4  feet  of  water. 

During  the  next  eight  minutes  we  pass  three  very 
sudden  turns  in  the  river  ;  the  first  turn  is  to  the 
right  then  to  the  left;  next  to  the  right  again;  the 
second  turn  being  the  sharpest  on  the  St.  Lawrence 
River;  at  direct  angles  turning  to  the  left.  Passen- 
gerson  the  left  side  of  the  boat,  by  looking  backward, 
have  a  tine  view  of  that  portion  of  the  river  we  have 
just  passed,  and  looking  forward  see  where  we  are 
compelled  to  go.  and  more  easily  note  the  sharpness 
of  the  turn.  Rafts  entering  the  American  channel 
at  the  foot  of  the  Long  Sault  rapids  will  drift 
nine  miles  in  forty  minutes,  and  are  often  thrown 
on  shore  on  either  side  in  making  this  sudden 
turn.  After  making  our  next  turn  to  the  right,  by 
looking  in  the  distance,  front,  between  the  narrow 
jioint,  we  discover  what  is  known  as  "The  Crab." 
The  current  crosses  here  from  right  to  left,  then  left 
to  right,  and  from  right  to  left,  forming  the  letter  Z. 
Rafts  get  entangled  in  this  portion  of  the  river,  and 
are  easily  torn  to  pieces. 

There  is  a  ferry  boat  plying  between  this  point,  on 
the  right,  Macenia  point  and  Cornwall  point  on  the 
left,  touching  at  two  places  on  Barnhardt's  Island,  to 
convey    passengers    who    are    desirous    of   visiting 


''  ,    ' 


. 


I 


99 

Macenia  Springs,  six  miles  distant.  The  steamboat  is 
a  side-wheeler,  two  horses  tread  the  power  that 
revolves  the  wheels;  it  is  therefore  a  two-horse 
boat ;  they  convey  the  steam  on  board  in  a  bac^  well 
filled  with  oats.  The  deckhand  is  the  cook  ;  the  cook 
is  the  engineer,  the  engineer  is  tlie  mate,  and  the 
mate  is  the  captain  ;  one  man  supreme  commands  ;  no 
mutiny  ever  occurs,  unless  the  mule  should  kick  the 
deck  hand  overboard — that  would  be  a  "  DiiiUty^'  would 
it  not  ? 

On  the  left  is  the  entrance  to  the  Canadian  channel 
at  the  end  ot  Earnhardt's  Island.  Two  miles  below 
on  the  right  is  the  last  of  the  American  shore  on  the 
St.  Lawrence,  lat.  45"  N,  Some  few  }ears  ago  I 
was  presented  by  one  of  the  firms  in  the  city,  with  an 
American  flag,  fifteen  feet  in  length,  to  designate  the 
last  of  the  United  States  shore  on  this  river.  Through 
the  assistance  of  a  friend  at  Cornwall,  and  thirteen 
dollars  in  cash,  I  succeeded  in  getting  the  flag  in 
position.  It  remained  there  for  about  ten  days,  when 
a  party  of  St.  Regis  Indians,  who  occupy  a  reserva- 
tion six  miles  distant,  the  other  side  of  the  island — 
four  of  them,  came  over  to  the  point,  filled  them- 
selves full  of  "  ice  water,"  climbed  up  the  flag-staff, 
and  took  down  the  flag.  They  cut  it  up  into  three  or 
four  suits  of  clothes,  and  went  around  this  vicinity 
for  about  a  week  as  full  as  a  boiled  oyster,  singing 
"  Hail  Columbia,  right  side  up,"  rolled  up  in  the 
Stars  and  Stripes,  full  of  fire  water  ;  it  was  said  to  be 
the  happiest  moment  of  their  lives,  and  I  have  no 
reason  to  doubt  it.  On  June  7th,  1887,  I  was  pre- 
sented by  Mr.  S.  Carsley,  the  leading  dry  goods  mer- 
chant of  Montreal,  with  another  splendid  American 
flag,  and  I  hope  when  placed  in  position  it  may  vvave 


rl 


lOO 


\i 


until  I  cease  issuing  this  little  volume,  and  on  white 
wings,  etc.,     c. 

That  portion  of  the  river  on  the  right  is  the  divid- 
ing line  for  five  miles;  afterwards  an  iron  fence  or 
posts,  set  at  equal  distance  apart,  mark  the  boundary 
line.  The  river  passing  around  the  way  forms  Corn- 
wall Island,  about  six  miles  wide.  Rafts  enter  this 
portion  of  the  river  where  the  Racket  river  empties 
in,  and  are  here  refitted  preparatory  to  being  towed 
through  the  lake.  Bot;i  sides  of  the  river  from  this 
point  downward  belong  to  the   Dominion  of  Canada. 

In  the  distance,  on  the  left  is  Cornwall,  a  village  of 
S,ooo  people,  with  the  largest  cotton  and  woolen  mills 
in  the  Dominion.  Since  the  proLective  tariff  was 
inaugurated  by  the  Dominion  Parliament,  these 
industries  have  thrived  wonderfully,  and  the  town  is 
correspondingly  prosperous.  The  large  round  tower 
is  the  water  works  reservoir.  Just  before  landing,  a 
fine  view  is  obtained  of  both  the  old  and  new  Corn- 
wall canals.  Looking  at  the  old  canal  lock,  and 
learning  its  dimensions,  it  is  obvious  why  the  steam- 
ers are  the  limit  which  the  locks  will  admit,  hence  if 
they  were  five  feet  longer  or  a  trifle  wider,  they 
would  be  compelled  to  remain  at  Montreal,  not  being 
able  to  work  through  the  locks.  The  new  canal 
which  is  alongside  of  the  old  one,  will  have  locks  loo 
feet  longer  than  the  present  ones  in  use,  consequently 
much  larger  boats  will  be  able  to  ply  the  river.  The 
old  canal  was  considered  amply  large  when  built ;  it 
was  not  supposed  that  the  travel  on  the  St.  Lawrence 
would  ever  reach  its  present  and  constantly  increasing 
numbers. 

Aftei  leaving  Cornwall,  on  the  right  is  Cornwall 
Island,  6  miles  wide.     Just  beyond  the  Island,  on  the 


lOI 


ft 


rii^ht  bank  of  the  river,  is  St.  Regis,  an  old  Indian 
village,  which  cannot  be  seen  from  the  deck  of  the 
steamer.  But  there  is  just  one  point  where  the 
church  roof  can  be  observed  for  a  mc^ment  or  so. 
There  is,  however,  a  tradition  worth  relating  here  : 
The  bell  hanging  in  this  church  is  associated  with  a 
deed  of  genuine  Indian  revenge.  On  its  way  from 
France  it  was  captured  by  an  English  cruiser  and 
taken  to  Salem,  Massachusetts,  where  it  was  sold  to 
the  churcli  at  Deerfield,  in  the  same  state.  The 
Indians,  hearing  of  the  destination  of  their  bell,  set 
out  for  Deerfield,  attacked  the  town,  killing  forty- 
seven  of  the  inhabitants,  and  took  112  captives,  among 
whom  was  the  pastor  and  his  family.  The  bell  was 
then  taken  down  and  conveyed  to  St.  Regis,  where  it 
now  hangs. 

During  the  next  ten  miles  of  our  trip,  the  river  is 
beautifully  studded  with  islands,  and  resembles  the 
Thousand  Islands  scenery  very  much.  Many  of  these 
islands  are  inhabited  ;  "some  of  them  elegantly  laid  out 
with  drives,  etc.  Rev.  Mr.  Dickinson's,  called  after 
himself,  has  a  dock,  at  which  steamers  of  this  size  can 
land  ;  it  has  a  hotel,  number  of  cottages,  and  is  quite 
a  gay  place  in  summer.  On  the  left  side  is  Summers 
Town,  beyond  which  is  Hamilton's  Island.  Just 
before  reaching  Summers  Town  is  the  residence  of 
Captain  Cameron,  of  this  line;  beyond  isthe  magnifi- 
cent villa  of  Hon.  Caribou  Cameron,  the  finest  on  the 
St.  Lawrence.  It  is  built  of  Ohio  freestone  and  cost 
{^80,000.  Hamilton  Island,  on  the  left,  is  occupied 
every  summer  by  camping  parties,  who  come  from 
great  distances,  even  from  Virginia  and  Ohio,  and 
remain  two,  three  and  even  four  months.  Day  after 
day,  one  of  their  principal  amusements  is  rowing  out 


:^& 


I 


i  i 


t     ! 


i     i 


102 


in  their  small  bouts,  awaiting  the  arrival  of  the 
steamers,  and  then  swiftly  ridinc;  on  top  of  the  swell 
that  is  occasioned  by  the  wheels  of  the  steamer.  1  he 
scene  is  excitini;  and  picturesque.  On  the  rii^ht  we 
now  have  a  fine  view  of  the  Adircjndack  Mountains 
of  Northern  New  York,  and  beyond  the  Green 
Mountains  of  Vermont,  except  it  be  a  smoky  or  misty 
day,  when  the  view  is  slie^htly  obscured.  It  is  56 
miles  from  the  river  to  the  mountains,  and  intervening 
is  the  wilderness  of  the  State  of  New  York,  known  as 
the  John  Brown  tract,  more  famous  as  the  hunting 
ground  of  adventurous  hunting  and  fishing  parties. 

Continuing  our  course,  we  pass  three  small  islands 
an(.  enter  Luke  St.  Francis,  28  miles  in  length — a  very 
picturesque  sheet  of  water  indeed  ;  but  the  trip 
through  the  lake  is  quite  monotonous,  therefore,  for 
the  next  two  hours,  the  guide,  as  well  as  the  passen- 
gers, can  "take  a  rest."  This  being  a  favorite  route 
for  honeymoon  parties,  there  is  now  two  full  hours 
for  these  couples  to  enjoy  the  "honey"  or  the  "moon," 
as  seemeth  to  them  best.  After  making  this  announce- 
ment one  day,  53  left  the  deck  ;  one,  however,  was  an 
old  bachelor,  who  went  to  curl  his  hair. 

In  the  centre  of  the  lake,  on  the  left,  is  the  village 
of  Lancaster,  an  old  Scotch  settlement.  Just  before 
reaching  the  village,  is  what  appears  to  be  a  stack  of 
hay,  commonly  known  throughout  Scotland  as  a 
Cairn.  It  is  no  more  or  less  than  a  heap  of  stones  in 
a  rounded  or  conical  form,  placed  in  that  way  to  com- 
memorate some  especial  historic  event.  This  one  was 
built  by  the  Glengarry  Highlanders  in  1847,  to  per- 
petuate the  memory  of  Sir  John  Colburn,who  was  Com- 
mander-in-Chief of  the  Army  and  Governor-General 
of  the  province.  It  was  built  by  putting  cobble-stones 


I 


I03 

one  on  top  of  tlic  otlicr — cacli  individual  inliubilanl  or 
stranger  passing  tliat  way  adding  a  stone.  Sec  (jiieen 
Victoria's  Book,  where  she  describes  helping  to  build 
a  Sciitch  Cairn  with  the  assistance  of  John  lirown, 
and  one  will  get  a  better  idea  of  l)t)w  to  build  a  Cairn. 
Tlie  county  in  which  ihis  place  is  located  is  named 
Glengarry,  and  is  mainly  or  almost  wholly  inhabited 
by  tlie  sturdy  Sct)tch  Mighlanders,  whose  farms  are  of 
the  finest  in  the  Dominion.  Tliis  is  the  last  English 
speaking  village  on  the  route. 

Passing  three  lighthouses,  showing  that  the  channel 
across  the  lake  is  cjuite  intricate,  we  leave  St.  Anisette 
on  the  right,  a  small  French  town.  We  are  now 
approaching  the  boundary  line  between  the  Provinces 
of  Ontario  and  Ouebec.  The  lighthouses  on  either 
side  siiow  the  geographical  divisions.  From  the 
lighthouse  on  the  left  the  line  runs  straight  to  the 
Ottawa  River  ;  then  the  Ottawa  becomes  the  dividing 
line.  Just  before  arriving  at  the  foot  of  the  lake, 
where  the  river  re-forms,  we  pass  San  Zcjtiqi.  ;  next 
Coteaii  Landing,  where  we  call  for  the  purpose  of 
taking  on  a  pilot, 

EDWARD  WILLETT, 

whose  duty  it  is  to  pilot  this  line  of  boats  through  the 
next  series  of  rapids,  and  the  Lachine,  also  through 
to  Montreal  ;  we  are  now  coming  t'  four  rapids  : 
first,  the  Coteau;  second  Cedar;  thL^,  Split  Rock, 
and  fourth,  the  Cascades.  The  Canada  Atlantic 
Railroad,  running  from  Ottawa,  the  capital  of  the 
Dominion,  to  Coteau  Landing,  the  railroad  ferry  at 
this  point  conveys  whole  trains  to  Valley  Field, 
where   connections  are   made    for  Boston   and  New 


H  >   ' 


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1     1 

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1 1 


104 

York.  A  bridge  was  to  be  completed  this  year  and 
the  Ferry  discontinued.  The  shortest  route  from  the 
capital  to  those  points.  On  the  extreme  right,  at  the 
foot  of  the  lake,  is  the  village  of  Valley  Field.  It  is 
at  the  head  of  Beauharnois  Canal,  it>2  miles  in 
length,  which  passes  around  this  series  of  rapids. 
The  river,  in  ii|2  miles,  has  a  fall  of  84  feet.  The 
finest  water  power  privilege  on  the  continent  of 
America,  except  Niagara,  is  at  this  point.  The 
largest  cotton  mill  in  the  Dominion,  the  Canada 
Paper  Co.'s  mill,  and  several  other  manufacturing 
establishments  are  located  at  Valley  Field.  After 
leaving  St.  Francis  Lake,  we  re-enter  the  river. 
With  our  pilot  we  go  down  the  small  rapid  known  as 
the  Cmeau,  passing  Prisoner's  Island  on  the  left,  and 
on  the  left  bank  is  the  old  French  village  of  Coteau 
du  Lac.  On  the  extreme  left,  at  the  point,  is  an  old 
French  fort,  where  battles  were  fought  in  1812  and 
1813;  the  earthworks  are  still  in  a  good  state  of 
preservation,  behind  which  is  the  old  saw-mill. 
Twenty  minutes  (or  five  miles)  from  this  point  to  the 
Cedar  Rapids,  then  you  will  "see  der  Rapid"  that  is 
a  Rapid — the  most  Rapid  Rapid  of  all  the  Rapids. 
Opposite  the  rapid  is  the  village  of  Cedar  on  the  left 
and  St.  Timothy  on  the  right,  the  Cedar  Rapid  the 
finest  upon  the  St.  Lawrence  River.  Look  at  St. 
Timothy,  bear  in  mind  the  view  you  had  of  Morris- 
burg,  the  impression  of  its  beauty  and  thrift,  and 
now  you  have  the  comparison.  How  does  the  former 
strike  you  as  against  the  latter?  It  is  a  historic  fact, 
and  worthy  of  note,  that  no  matter  what  town  you 
arrive  at  in  the  Province  of  Ouebec,  this  will  be 
apparent  to  the  eye:  the  finest  buildings  in  the  place 
will    be   the   church,   nunnery,   school,  hospital    and 


? 


a-     t 


.  ^  ♦ 


priest's  residence.  Aside  from  these,  the  rest  are  all 
about  alike.  You  cannot  tell  the  palace  residence 
from  the  blacksmith's  shop,  or  the  grocery  store  from 
the  hotel.  The  church  at  St.  Timothy  has  a  seating 
capacity  of  1,500  ;  the  population  of  the  village  is 
600;  the  church  is  always  full  on  Sundays,  and  as 
Mark  Twain  exclaimed,  "  What  large  domes  these 
worshippers  must  have  to  their  pantaloons  for  600  to 
fill  a  place  capable  of  seating  1,500."  But  they  come 
from  all  the  country  around,  being  all  of  one  per- 
suasion. An  opposition  church  is  so  far  unknown  in 
these  rural  parts,  hence  it  may  be  inferred  what  the 
extraordinary  power  of  this  old  church  must  be  in 
the  lower  province. 

Speaking  to  one  of  the  priests  one  day  regarding 
the  amount  of  money  collected  by  them  from  the 
poor  to  build  and  maintain  their  institutions,  I  asked 
him  how  it  was,  and  he  remarked  that  the  millions 
have  more  money  than  the  millionaires,  and  b)'  get- 
ting the  dollar  from  the  poorer  classes  they  had  the 
million,  which  the  millionaires  never  give  up. 

Just  before  arriving  at  St.  Timothy,  we  enter  the 
Cedar  Rapid  and  pass  a  distance  of  three  and  one- 
half  miles  in  the  extraordinary  short  time  of  seven 
minutes.  By  casting  your  eye  shoreward,  while 
passing  an  island  on  the  left,  and  just  before  we 
enter  the  heaviest  part  of  the  rapid,  you  will  discover 
how  fast  the  boat  is  going.  Looking  to  the  right, 
you  will  see  Hell's  Hole  and  the  gr^^atest  commotion 
in  the  river  from  Kingston  to  the  Gulf. 

Leaving  Cedar  Rapid,  which  is  the  most  picturesque 
and  beautiful  (in  our  estimation)  of  all,  two  and  one- 
half  miles  farther  along,  and  passing  Bockey  Hayes' 
shoal,  which  is  a  peculiar  formation  in  the  bed  of  the 


I.:, 


1i 


k 


i 
'i 


io6 

river,  makinjr  navigation  somewhat  dangerous.  In 
illustration  :  one  day  the  steamer  Corsican  suddenly 
lurched  to  the  left,  and  evidently  struck  a  rock  ; 
whereupon  the  captain  said  to  the  pilot,  "  Edward, 
you  are  a  little  too  far  over  to  the  left."  Before  he 
could  complete  the  sentence  the  boat  lurched  to  the 
right  and  struck  another  rock  ;  then  the  pilot  replied, 
"  Ves:  and  a  little  too  far  over  to  the  right  side."  It 
is  plain  that  the  channel  about  here  is  at  least  pre- 
carious. The  government  engineers,  however,  are 
now  at  work  removing  these  dangerous  obstructions. 
The  Napoleon  hats  you  see  in  the  distance,  on  po.es 
about  ten  feet  high,  are  the  maiks  which  enable  the 
pilot  to  obtain  his  true  bearings  through  the  shoal. 
Turning  to  the  right,  we  come  in  sight  of  the  Split 
Rock  Rapid,  the  most  dangerous  rapid  of  all.  When 
we  speak  of  danger,  we  don't  mean  to  life  or  limb,  as 
no  person  was  ever  injured  on  this  rapid  ;  it  is  danger 
to  property  that  we  refer  to,  as  this  is  the  only  one  of 
the  series  that  has  cost  the  company  one  dollar.  ' 
They  lost  one  steamboat  here,  and  have  had  others 
upon  the  rocks.  On  the  8th  of  July,  1874,  the  steamer 
Corinthian,  of  the  R.  O.  N  Co.,  when  passing  the 
Split  Rock  Rapid,  was  almost  instantly  enveloped  by 
a  terrific  thunder  shower,  accompanied  by  a  hurricane. 
The  wind  was  so  powerful  that  the  boat  refused  to 
answer  the  helai,  and  instead  of  turning  to  the  right, 
as  she  should,  the  wind  caused  her  to  go  straight 
ahead,  and  we  struck  a  rock  forward  about  five  feet 
high  and  passed  fifteen  fe^t  aft  of  the  wheel  over  the 
same,  and  then  stopped.  I  was  upon  the  right  hand 
side  of  the  boat  explaining  to  the  passengers  and 
showing  or  pointing  out  to  them  the  ledge  of  rock 
when    she  struck.     Immediately   four  ladies   caught 


^      i 


^ 


f        If 


lo; 


i 


hold  of  me  (whom  they  thought  was  the  boss  life 
preserver).  What  a  position  for  a  nice  you-^g  man. 
I  was  about  to  exclaim  as  my  friend  A.  Ward  did 
when  he  was  surrounded  by  20  of  Brigham  Young's 
wives,  ''  I  hope  your  intentions  are  honorable." 
However,  through  the  assistance  of  some  friends,  I 
procured  life  preservers  for  them  and  was  released 
from  my  somewhat  precarious  position.  In  a  space 
of  an  hour  most  of  the  passengers  were  landed  by 
the  aid  of  the  ship's  boats  and  bateaux  from  the  shore, 
and  proceeded  by  rail  to  Montreal,  where  they  arrived 
the  same  evening.  I  remained  on  board  all  night 
until  a  derrick  was  erected  and  two  of  the  boats 
lashed  together,  and  a  platform  built  upon  them, 
when  I  was  let  down  by  the  aid  of  the  derrick  upon 
the  same,  and  without  further  trouble  taken  to  shore 
in  safety.  The  second  line  of  white-caps  which  you 
see  in  the  distance  in  front,  is  the  Split  Rock,  a  ledge 
of  rock  running  from  shore  to  shore,  with  the 
exception  of  a  break  of  about  sixty  feet,  which  is  a 
natural  split  in  the  rock.  Formerly  there  was  only 
a  depth  of  nine  feet  of  water  ;  it  was  blasted  out  and 
now  gives  a  navigable  channel  of  thirteen  and  one- 
half  feet.  Passengers,  by  looking  into  the  water  on 
the  right  side  of  the  boat,  can  see  the  ledge  we  have 
been  talking  about. 

One  and  a  half  miles  from  here  to  the  Cascade,  the 
last  of  this  series  of  four,  and  the  last  but  one  on  the 
river — the  Lachine  being  the  last.  The  Cascade 
differs  from  all  the  rest,  being  a  cutting  chopping  sea, 
in  which  the  boats  are  wrenched  more  than  in  any 
other  rapid.  On  the  right  is  the  village  of  Meloche- 
ville,  at  the  foot  of  the  Beauharnois  Canal,  eleven 
and  one-half  miles  in  length,  that  passes  around  this 


m 


'4 
1 1 


a  'I 


!  line  of  rapids.     The  boats  of  this  and  all  other  lines 


[o8 


'! 


I 

■I 


arc  compelled  to  pass   through  this  canal,  as  none  of 
tliem  could  ascend  this  line  of  rapids. 

We  are  now  thirty  miles  by  water  and  twenty-four 
miles  by  land  from  Montreal.  In  the  distance  in  front, 
is  Mount  Royal,  or  Montreal  mountain.  The  park 
mountain  drive,  the  most  famous  drive  in  the  world, 
is  up  the  brow  of  the  mountain  through  a  park.  On 
the  left  is  II  Perot  Island,  formed  by  the  two  channels 
of  the  Ottawa.  The  one  we  now  see  comes  by  St. 
Anne's,  where  Moore 'wrote  his  famous  Canadian  boat 
song.  A  resident  of  St.  Anne's,  Lieutenant-Colonel 
Dowkcr,  says  that  every  spring  the  freshets  of  the 
Ottawa  cause  the  water  to  come  down  into  the 
St.  Lawrence  with  such  force  as  to  cause  an 
eddy  to  pass  up  the  point  of  the  island  and  pass 
down  the  navigable  cliannel  of  the  Ottawa,  and  he 
can  take  a  pail  from  his  house.  Chateau  Blanc 
(wiiere  the  famous  poet  Moore  resided  while  at  St. 
Anne's  and  wrote  his  Canadian  poems),  proceed  down 
to  the  river  and  dip  up  a  pail  of  pure  clear  St.  Law- 
rence water.  Meeting  Col.  Dowker  last  spring,  he 
told  me  that  the  freshets  of  the  Ottawa  in  March  and 
April,  1885,  were  the  most  alarming  and  disastrous 
ever  known.  The  sudden  breaking  up  of  the  ice 
caused  a  jam.  Houses  were  moved  from  their 
foundations,  cattle  and  sheep  crushed  to  jelly  by  the 
ice  and  many  drowned  ;  the  ice  piled  mountains  high. 
The  government  had  an  agent  in  the  vicinity 
relieving  the  distressed  inhabitants.  The  heavy  How 
of  ice  by  the  freshets  in  the  Ottawa  caused  a  jam  a 
little  below  Montreal  in  the  year  1887,  consequently 
flooding  the  city,  causing  much  damage  to  life  and 
property.  The  oldest  church  in  the  upper  Province 
and  old  forts  are  to  be  seen  here. 


.     \ 


109 


,  \ 


On  the  left  a  portion  of  the  Ottawa  empties  into 
the  St.  Lawrence.  This  is  not,  however,  the  main 
channel  ;  the  navigable  portion  of  the  river  is  just  the 
other  side  of  II  Perot.  Note  the  difference  between 
the  color  of  the  two  waters  ;  they  are  as  wide  apart 
as  green  is  from  purple.  The  water  of  the  Ottawa  is 
of  a  dark  brown  color,  caused  by  passing  over  low- 
marshy,  peat  bed  soils,  and  the  huge  forests  through 
which  this  river  passes,  the  leaves  falling  and  rot- 
ting, and  swept  along  by  the  freshets,  doubtless  dye 
the  water  to  the  peculiar  color  observable  The 
waters  of  the  two  rivers  do  not  readily  mix,  and  each 
are  distinct  for  many  miles. 

In  the  distance  is  Lake  St.  Louis,  or  Lachine 
Lake,  15  miles  from  the  rapids  to  the  foot  of  the 
lake,  where  we  arrive  at  Lachine,  on  the  left,  and 
Caughnawaga  on  the  right.  The  latter  is  the  resi- 
dence of  the  Indian  pilot,  St.  Jean  Baptiste,  who  dis- 
covered the  channel  and  took  this  line  of  boats  down 
the  Lachine  Rapids  for  over  forty  years. 

About  half  way  through  the  lake  on  the  right  we 
come  to  Nun's  Island.  That  mound  or  elevation  of 
ground  which  you  see  was  a  fort  in  18 12,  and  English 
and  American  warlike  parties  met  in  sanguinary 
contest  around  here.  It  commands  the  entrance  to 
the  Chateaugay  River.  The  village  of  Chateaugay  is 
about  six  miles  back.  The  Nun's  Island  belongs  to 
the  Gray  Nuns,  of  Montreal,  who  have  a  hospital  for 
their  own  sick,  and  the  spot  is  marked  by  a  large 
cross,  emblematic  of  their  order. 

Fifteen  minutes  from  here  we  are  in  sight  of 
Caughnawaga,  where  we  take  on  board  the  Indian 
pilot,  who  has  become  of  historical  interest  to  tour- 
ists, as  it   was   he   who  discovered  the  channel   and 


I  lO 


f 


took  the  first  of  tiiis  line  down,  August   19,  1840,  and 
has  been  in  the  employ  of  the  company  ever   since. 
He  is  75  years  old,  weighs  240   pounds,  and  stands  6 
feet    high.     I    am  sorry  to   say  thiit    on    account    of 
age,  the  company  were  forced   to   retire  him,  and  liis 
br(jther-in-law  will  take  the  boats  through  the  Lachine 
Rapids  this  year.     Many  of   the  passengers   imagine 
he  is    the    only   pilot   who  can   take  a  boat   through 
Lachine   Rapids.      This   is  not  correct,  for  w^e  have 
other    pilots    who   can;    but    as    he    is    paid  for  this 
especial   service,  they  resign  most    cheerfully  in  his 
favor.     He  has  never  had  an  accident,  and  the  com- 
pany believe    in  holding   to   that  which  is  good,  and 
therefore  "  stick   to  the  old  man."     He  will  emerge 
from    shore    in    a    small    boat,    accompanied    by   his 
two  sons.     They  row  him  to  the  steamers  ;  he  comes 
on     board    and     the    boys    row    him    home    again. 
He   remains   on   board   till   the   next   morning,  takes 
the  first  train  for  Lachine,  where  he  is  met   by  the 
boys,  who  take  him   home  in  a  row  boat.    The  Indian 
pilot's  name  it  St.  Jean  Baptiste  de  Lisle  ;  his  Indian 
name,  Ta  ya  ka,  meaning  in  the  U.  S.  language  that 
"he  will  cross  the  river,"  but  he  does  not;  he  goes 
down  the  rapids.     He  has  a  family  of   six   children, 
three  boys    and    three   girls.     The  girls   are  unmar- 
ried.    I  state  this  for  the  benefit  of  the  young  men 
on  board,  as  the   Indian   pilot   says  he  wants  a  "  heap 
Yankee"   for   his   girls.     I    am  engaged  to  my  Mary 
Jane,  and  they  can't  have  me. 

A  description  of  Caughnawaga  would  not  be 
amiss.  Note  the  line  of  palatial  residences  along  the 
bank  beyond  the  church,  the  windows  and  doors 
kicked  out  to  give  them  light  and  air,  the  palace  gar- 
dens in  the  front  part  of  the  back  end  of  the  house. 


^      ^      ' 


i> 


Ll 


Ill 


■     • 


I' 


The  laundry  of  Caughnawaga  is  usually  luing  on  tlie 
fence;  it  is  not  wash  day  to-day,  as  you  can  perceive. 
The  balh-room  is  the  whole  water-front,  but  it  is 
seldom  used.  The  water-works  is  that  barrel  on  the 
shore.  The  fair  damsel  waving  her  lily  white  iiand  is 
Mary  Jane,  my  best  girl.  She  comes  out  every  day 
to  welcome  me,  as  she  thinks  I  am  on  board.  You 
can  get  her  eye  and  have  a  ilirtation,  the  same  as  I 
have  had  for  years,  and  not  make  me  jealous.  That 
large  brick  structure  is  the  centennial  building,  built 
during  the  centennial  year  by  the  celebrated  Indian 
Chief,  White  Kicker.  I  think  they  used  him  to  kick 
the  windows  and  doors  out  of  the  palatial  residences 
previously  spoken  of. 

Caughnawaga,  signifying  "Praying  Indian"  (my 
friend  Ben  Butler  says  they  spell  it  with  an  e),  is  well 
laid  out  for  an  Indian  village,  with  a  population  of 
900,  all  Indians;  no  whites  can  live  here. 

The  finest  crops  raised  in  this  section  of  the  coun- 
try are  raised  just  below  Caughnawaga,  They  raise 
them  with  a  derrick.  It  is  a  blasted  crop,  however, 
and  of  no  use  until  it  is.  This  notable  quarry  is 
where  most  of  the  stones  come  from  for  the  con- 
struction of  the  locks  in  the  new  Lachine  canal — the 
entrance  to  which  is  at  Lachine,  the  village  just 
passed  at  the  foot  of  the  lake,  on  the  left. 


if 


■i\\ 


M 


l!Fl 


THE  VILLAGE  OF  LACHINE 

is  a  favorite  resort  for  Montrealers  in  summer.  The 
inhabitants  number  about  2,000,  but  it  is  frequently 
augmented  in  the  season  to  9,000  or  10,000.  Note 
the  large  buildings,  which  are  the  church,  Villa  de 
Marie  Convent,  the  School  and  University  for  the 
education  of  priests. 


1 


112 


()ur  pilot  being  on  board,  he  will  now  show  his 
Injinuity  in  piloting  a  boat  down  the  Lachine 
Rapids.  Before  reaching  the  rapids  the  tourists  can 
see  the  aqueduct  that  supplies  the  city  of  Montreal 
Willi  water. 


THE  LACHINE  RAPIDS 

differ  from  all  the  rest;  it  is  simply  an  intricate 
channel  through  rock.  Take  your  position  upon  either 
side  of  the  boat  and  you  will  know  when  we  come  to 
the  most  important  point,  as  the  boat  will  be  headed 
direct  f  )r  a  little  island,  which  is  nothing  more  nor 
less  than  a  few  loads  of  dirt  upon  a  huge  ledge  of 
rock.  Keep  your  eye  upon  the  bow  of  the  boat  and 
you  will  be  lead  to  exclaim,  "why,  we  are  going  to 
strike  the  island;"  and  if  you  are  a  betting  person  or 
a  truthful  one,  you  would  almost  swear  we  could  not 
help  but  btrike  ;  but  when  within  less  than  ten  feet, 
we  make  a  very  sudden  turn  to  the  right,  with  a 
grand  pitch  or  lurch,  in  which  you  will  think  the 
boat  drops  ten  feet.  We  pass  alongside  of  a 
ledge  of  rocks  for  about  half  a  mile,  to  see  which' 
you  must  be  upon  the  right  hand  side  of  the  boat  ;  at 
the  end  of  this  ledge  of  rock-  we  have  a  perfect 
miniature  Niagara,  a  little  water-fall  for  a  cent.  Do 
not  allow  the  lurching  of  the  boat  from  side  to  side, 
to  cause  you  any  uneasiness,  as  there  is  no  danger, 
because  a  side  \/heel  boat  has  guards  from  four  to 
ten  feet  projecting  over  on  each  side  from  the  hull, 
60  to  90  feet  long,  so  that  when  that  flat  surface 
strikes  the  water  by  lurching,  that  is  as  far  as  she 
can  go,  therefore,  will  always  righten  herself  immedi- 
ately.    I   have  had  a  great  deal  of  sport  in  this  way. 


^      ;      ' 


113 

When  the  boat  had  lurched  over  as  far  as  she  could,  I 
would  immediately  exclaim:  "Oh!  I  am  on  the 
wrong  side,"  and  proceed  to  the  high  side,  when  the 
boat  would  immediately  rifhten  up  and  the  passen- 
gers would  think  I  did  it,  but  she  would  have 
rightened  without  my  aid.  Yet  I  have  heard  some 
very  strong-minded  women,  after  seeing  the  effect  or 
my  moving  to  the  high  side  of  the  boat,  exclaim  : 
"Put  that  big  man  off;  he  has  too  much  weight  to  be 
upon  a  boat  in  the  rapids.."  This  is  the  last  rapid 
built  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  you  can  have  it  the  best 
one  if  you  like  and  I  will  not  quarrel  with  you  for 
it.  All  I  ask  you  to  do  is  to  stop  at  the  hotels  who 
advertise  in  my  book  and  tell  them  I  was  the  cause 
of  your  visit,  and  if  they  do  not  treat  you  well  I  will 
proceed  to  sit  down  upon  them,  not  mentally,  but 
physically,  and  they  will  never  have  occasion  to  treat 
any  one  else  badly.  Passing  the  foot  of  the  rapids,  a 
first  view  of  Montreal  on  the  left,  and  on  the  right  is 
the  village  of  La  Prairie.  The  first  mountain  on 
the  left  is  Mount  Bruno  ;  second,  Bellisle  ;  the  third, 
St.  Pie.  The  next  and  last  sensation  on  the  trip 
is  passing  under 


I 

i 


o 


VICTORIA   BRIDGE, 

the  largest  and  longest  tubular  bridge  in  the  worldr 
was  built  by  Mr.  Stephenson  in  i860  for  the  Grand 
Trunk  Railroad,  by  which  it  is  owned  and  controlled. 
It  is  a  mile  and  three  quarters  of  iron,  tvc^o  miles  and 
a  quarter  with  its  approaches  from  shore.  It  is 
wholly  of  iron,  top,  bottom  and  sides — an  iron  tunnel 
or  box,  as  it  were.  There  are  twenty-four  abutments, 
built  wedge  shaped  (to  crush  the  immense  ice   fields 


114 


\ 


that  pass  tliron.i^h  this  section,  which,  previous  to  the 
building  of  the  bridge,  did  iintiiense  damage  to  Mon- 
treal during  the  spring  freshets.  There  are  no  such 
things  as  freshets  on  the  St.  I.avvrence,  the  Ottawa 
ilowing  in  some  miles  above  causing  such  disasters), 
Tjpon  which  rest  the  sections  of  iron.  The  spans  are 
from  250  U)  360  feet  long  each,  and  tlie  center  span  is 
about  60  feet  high.  The  bridge  tubes  are  16x22  feet. 
It  contains  no  wagon  road  or  foot  path,  and  is  used 
by  the  G.  T.  R.  and  its  connecting  lines.  The  cost  of 
this  immense  work  was  ^6,250,000,  about  one-half  of 
which  amount  went  to  fatten  tlie  contractors.  I  was 
not  one  of  them.  I  mention  this  on  account  of  my 
size,  and  for  fear  someone  might  think  I  was  wealthy. 
Tne  bridge  is  constructed  of  sheets  of  iron  with  a 
tw(j-inch  edge  turned  up  and  riveted  to  each  oth'^r. 
It  is  fastened  to  the  center,  loose  on  both  ends  on 
rollers,  and  is  provided  with  a  sliding  track,  so  that 
there  is  no  danger  by  expansion  or  contraction  to 
passing  trains.  It  expands  and  contracts  from  three 
and  one-half  to  seven  inches.  The  bridge  is  kept  in 
thorough  repair  and  well  painted.  The  small  holes, 
or  perforations  in  the  sides  of  the  bridge,  were 
originally  intended  to  convey  the  smoke  out,  but 
found  inadequate  for  that  purpose  ;  therefore  they 
caused  to  be  erected  a  line  of  Hues  the  whole  length. 
Now  if  any  smoke  remains  it  is  carried  out  in  a 
hand-basket.  The  two  movable  scaffolds  you  see  are 
used  by  the  workmen  in  repairing  and  painting.  It 
is  not  a  draw  bridge,  and  as  we  pass  under  the  center 
span  and  not  over  it,  you  need  not  remove  your  hat 
if  you  remain  on  the  deck.  After  passing  under  the 
bridge  you  will  have  a  magnificent  view  of 


11 


'"     I] 


1^5 


MONTREAL    HARBOR. 

Tlie  points  of  interest  in  the  liarbor  will  all  be 
described  to  you  as  we  pass  over  St.  Ivatnbert's  shoal, 
a  very  dangerous  passao^e,  previous  to  landing  at  the 
Quebec  boat,  v/^here  we  transfer  such  passengers  as 
desire  to  visit  Quebec.  The  island  you  see  frcjnt  on 
the  right  is  St.  Helen's  Isle,  used  by  the  citizens  of 
Montreal  for  pleasure,  picnic  parties,  etc.  A  ferry 
plies  between  the  city  and  island  every  half  hour, 
from  morning  until  7  i'.  m.  Qn  Sunday  from  3.000 
to  20,000  persons  visit  the  island,  mostly  French 
Canadians,  three-fifths  of  whcmi  comprise  the  popu- 
lation of  Montreal.  In  the  distant  front  on  the  left 
is  the  oldest  church  in  Montreal;  to  the  left  of  that, 
the  largest  building  with  the  dome,  is  the  Bonsecour 
Market  and  old  City  Hall.  The  new  City  Hall  is 
that  large  building  in  the  rear  with  the  dome  in  the 
center  and  four  columns — one  in  each  corner. 
Across  the  road  to  the  left,  that  long  building,  is  the 
Court  House.  At  the  head  of  Jacques  Cartier  Square 
is  a  magnificent  column  erected  to  the  memory  of 
Admiral  Lord  Nelson.  At  the  foot  of  the  square 
lies  a  steamer  of  the  Richelieu  &  Qntario  Navigation 
Company.  There  are  two  steamers  on  this  line, 
notably  the  Montreal  and  Quebec.  This  company 
owns  twenty-one  side-wheel  boats.  The  Quebec  line 
has  the  largest  boats  that  float  the  St.  Lawrence 
River;  they  will  compare  favorably  with  the  boats  of 
the  Sound  or  the  Hudson  River — triple-decked  palace 
boats,  built  of  Bessemer  steel  ;  one  has  a  capacity  of 
360  state  rooms — the  other  280.  The  distance  to 
Quebec  is  180  miles,  and  the  fare  on  this  line  is  only 


■»; 


%' 


H  ■■■  •' 


m 


«?-^ 


m 


!! 


ii6 

ji<2.5o— the  cheapest  on  the  continent.  Beyond,  on 
the  left,  the  two  massive  towers  you  see  belong  to 
the  French  church  of  Notre  Dame.  It  is  not  a 
Calliedral,  but  simply  a  parish  church.  (The  Cathe- 
dral is  on  Dominion  S([uarc,  in  j)rocess  of  erection, 
and  when  complete,  will  be  one-half  the  size  of  St. 
Peter's  at  Rome).  It  is  the  largest  on  the  continent* 
and  has  contained  within  its  walls,  front  porch  and 
stairways,  on  the  24th  of  June  last  (St.  John's  Day), 
twenty-two  th(jusand  souls.  Beyond  is  the  Custom 
House,  with  the  clock  in  the  tower,  and  still  further 
lip,  the  examining  warehouse  of  tlie  Custom  House, 
as  well  as  the  office,  docks  and  steamers  of  the  Allen 
line.  1  he  first  stop  is  at  (juebec  boat ;  passengers  for 
Montreal  remain  on  deck,  as  this  line  is  compelled  to 
enter  the  first  lock  in  the  Lachine  Canal;  the  gates 
close  and  the  water  is  allowed  to  enter,  wliich  raises 
the  boat  to  the  level  of  tlie  lock,  when  the  passengers 
are  allowed  to  depart.  Montreal  is  the  commercial 
metropolis  of  the  Dominion,  with  a  population  of 
160,000,  three-fifths  of  which  are  French  Canadians. 
The  docks,  piers,  wharves,  etc.,  of  Montreal  are  the 
finest  on  tlie  continent.  It  is  the  second  city  of  com- 
mercial importance.  New  York  being  first.  Six 
steamship  companies  leave  here  weekly  for  Europe 
during  the  summer  season,  and  a  large  amount  of 
business  must  of  necessity  be  done,  as  its  channel  is 
closed  during  five  months  of  the  winter.  The  water 
front  is  all  lighted  with  the  electric  light,  so  that 
work  is  carried  on  during  the  summer  months  night 
and  day.  On  top  of  the  revetment  wall  was  built 
last  season  a  dyke  or  strong  barricade  ten  feet  high  ; 
it  serves  as  a  check  to  the  water  during  the  spring 
freshets  to  prevent  the    overflowing   and    damage  of 


i'7 

the  sudden  rise  of  previous  years.  Having  selecied 
your  hotel  and  arrived  at  the  same,  our  next  duty 
will  be  to  see  the  sights  of 


MONTREAL. 

It  is  situated  at  the  head  of  navigation  for  ocean 
vessels,  540  miles  from  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  on 
the  Island  of  Montreal,  which  lies  between  the  two 
great  rivers  of  the  North,  the  St.  Lawrence  and  the 
Ottawa.  The  island  is  about  32  miles  in  length, 
and  at  its  widest  some  ten  in  breadtli ;  it  is  so  fertile 
as  to  be  called  the  garden  of  the  Province.  The 
surface  of  the  land  is  level,  with  tlie  exception  (;f  the 
eminence  of  Mount  Royal,  which  rises  550  feet  above 
the  river  level.  Mount  Royal  gives  the  name  to  the 
city  which  lies  at  its  base.  The  settlement  of  the 
town  was  originally  determined  by  the  first  explorer, 
Jacques  Cartier,  in  1535,  at  which  time  an  Indian 
village,  Hochelaga,  occupied  the  spot.  The  perma- 
nent founding  of  the  place,  however,  did  not  occur 
until  1642,  and  in  one  hundred  years  of  growth  there- 
after it  gathered  a  population  of  4,000.  It  was  under 
French  rule  until  1760,  when  it  passed  into  the  hands 
of  the  British.  In  1832  the  cholera  raged  in  Montreal 
with  great  violence,  carrying  off  1,843  inhabitants  in 
a  population  of  about  30,000.  In  April,  1849,  a 
political  mob  burnt  the  Parliament  buildings,  which 
were  erected  on  McGill  street,  and  the  seat  of  Gov- 
ernment was,  in  consequence,  transferred  to  Quebec, 
thence  to  Toronto,  and  finally  to  Ottawa,  where  it 
remains.  In  July,  1852,  a  destructive  fire  laid  waste 
a  large  portion  of  the  city,  burning  tio  houses  and 
consuming  property  valued  at  $1,400,000.     Notwith- 


«i 

i 


ill 


ii8 


1  ' 


standing  these  reverses,  the  city  recovered,  and  to-day- 
numbers  a  population  of  160,000.  Years  of  industry 
and  enterprise  have  produced  growth  and  improve- 
ment in  Montreal,  such  as  but  few  American  cities 
can  boast  of,  and  perhaps  one — Chicago — has  exceeded. 
At  the  beginning  of  the  present  century,  vessels  of 
more  than  300  tons  could  not  ascend  to  Montreal, 
and  its  foreign  trade  was  carried  on  by  brigs  and 
barges.  Now  ocean  steamships  of  over  6,000  tons, 
the  floating  palaces  of  the  Richelieu  &  Ontario 
Navigation  Company,  and  ships  of  from  700  to  6,000 
tons  from  all  parts  of  the  world,  occupy  the  wharves 
of  the  harbor,  which  are  not  equaled  on  this  continv^nt 
in  point  of  substantial  construction,  convenience  and 
cleanliness.  The  old  part  of  Montreal,  near  the 
river,  has  narrow  incomniodious  streets  ;  but  the  new 
growth  of  the  city  toward  Mount  Royal  has  been 
liberally  laid  out,  with  wide  and  cheerful  thorough- 
fares. The  architecture  here  is  very  fine  ;  the  material 
chielly  used  is  a  zinc-colored  lime-stone,  extensively 
quarried  three  miles  from  the  city.  The  public 
buildings,  banks  and  principal  warehouses  are  solid 
and  handsome  enough  to  adorn  a  European  capitaL 
The  great  wealth  of  the  Roman  Catholic  Church  has 
enabled  it  to  erect  many  magnificent  churches,  hos- 
pitals and  convents,  always  in  a  very  massive  and 
enduring  style.  Other  denominations  seem  to  have 
been  excited  by  emulation,  and  vie  with  each  other 
in  the  beauty  and  elegance  of  their  places  of  worship. 
Among  the  evidences  of  the  French  origin  of  the  city 
are  to  be  noticed  a  few  curious  old  buildings  to  be 
found  lingering  here  and  there  about  Jacques  Cartier 
Square,  or  occupying  sites  on  the  eastern  part  of  the 
river  front.     The  old  houses  are  built  somewhat  like 


^    ' 


119 

fortifications,  and  have  heavily  vaulted  cellars,  wherein 
treasure  mi^ht  be  stored  or  a  defense  made  against 
hostile  foes,  in  the  days  when  Indians  and  wliites, 
French  and  British  were  fightine:  and  plundering 
each  other.  The  French  Canadians  in  the  city  con- 
tinue still  to  be  a  little  more  than  half  the  population, 
and,  although  their  language  here  has  not  been 
unaffected  by  the  constant  intercourse  with  English- 
speaking  people,  it  is  not,  as  commonly  supposed,  a 
patois^  but  such  French  as  was  spoken  by  the  polite 
and  educated  in  France,  when  the  emigrants  who  first 
settled  Canada  left  the  shore  of  their  mother-land. 
The  naming  of  many  of  the  streets  of  Montreal  after 
saints  and  holy  things,  reminds  one  that  its  founders 
were  not  exiles  nor  adventurers,  but  enthusiastic 
missionaries. 

PLACES  OF  INTEREST. 

The  Post  Office  is  built  on  St.  James  street,  the 
chief  thoroughfare  of  this  city,  opposite  the  new  St. 
Lawrence  Hall.  The  reason  why  I  use  the  word  new 
may  be  asked.  Well,  the  hotel  has  been  newly  refitted, 
the  corner  building  purchased,  one  hundred  elegant 
and  commodious  rooms  added,  with  baths  and 
closets,  electric  bells  and  elevators,  ladies  reception 
room,  new  and  eleganily  furnished  suits  0/  rooms 
added.  The  old  proorietor,  Mr.  Hogan,  pronounced 
by  connoisseurs  to  be  the  best  landlord  in  the 
Dominion,  has  assumed  the  proprietorship  -nd  has 
associated  with  him  as  manager,  Mr.  Samuel  Mont- 
gomery, the  best  choice  that  could  be  made,  as  he 
is  an  American  from  the  Pacific  slope,  where  they 
know  how  to  keep  a  hotel.     I    therefore  cheerfully 


.1! 


V.  ; . 


'■"i  ' 


120 


recommend  you  to  stop  at  the  new  St.  Lawrence 
Hall  during  your  stay  in  Montreal.  Starting  from 
there,  it  being  the  center,  every  point  of  interest  is 
within  fifteen  minutes'  walk  of  this  hotel.  The  first 
building  to  the  left  is  the  new  Post  Office,  recently 
finished,  with  a  richly  decorated  exterior,  and  every 
internal  improvement  which  modern  ingenuity  has 
devised.  Adjoining  it  is  the  Bank  of  Montreal,  in 
the  Corinthian  style  of  architecture,  with  a  sculpture 
on  the  pediment  depicting  native  Indians,  a  sailor 
and  settler  with  the  emblems  of  the  arts  and  trade. 
The  corporation  occupying  this  noble  building  is  the 
richest  one  of  the  kind  in  America.  It  has  branches 
in  every  town  of  importance  in  the  Dominion,  and 
has  offices  in  New  \  ork,  Chicago  and  London.  It 
issues  letters  of  credit  on  all  parts  of  the  world.  Its 
capital  and  reserve  fund  amount  to  ^18,000,000. 
Adjoining  is  the  Imperial  Fire  Insurance  Co. 's  new 
building.  Crossing  the  street,  on  the  left  hand 
corner,  in  process  of  erection,  is  the  commercial 
building  of  the  New  York  Life  Insurance  Com- 
pany. Adjoining  are  other  banks,  having  their 
offices  on  Place  d'Arms, — the  Jacques  Cartier, 
Ontario,  Ouebec  and  National  Banks.  On  the 
south  side  of  the  square,  the  great  parish  church 
of  Notre  Dame  looms  up.  The  dimensions  of  this 
vast  Norman  edifice  are  225  feet  in  length  and  134  in 
width.  Its  towers  are  220  feet  high;  the  western 
one  contains  the  largest  bell  in  America,  "  Gross 
Bourdon,"  in  w^eight  29,400  pounds.  The  seating 
capacity  of  the  church  is  10,000.  It  has  recently  been 
decorated  in  deep  colors  and  gold,  after  the  manner 
of  the  St.  Chapelle  at  Paris.  An  elevator  was  added 
making  the   tower  easy  of  access  to  visitors.     Sus- 


4  i 


121 


pended  over  the  western  gallery,  and  near  the  grand 
altar,  is  an  immense  wooden  crucifix.  This  was 
brought  from  France  two  centuries  ago,  and  first  set 
up  in  the  church  built  on  the  ground  now  Place 
d'Arms.  Adjoining  Notre  Dame  is  the  venerable 
Seminary  of  St.  Sulpice,  with  its  old  gateway,  court- 
yard and  clock.  The  gentlemen  of  this  seminary 
originally  held  valuable  rights  affecting  the  entire 
island  of  Montreal  ;  much  of  the  land  yet  remains  in 
their  hands.  With  the  wealth  thus  brought  to  their 
coffers,  they  have  liberally  established  and  conducted 
many  institutions  of  charity  and  education  scattered 
throughout  the  city.  We  are  now  on  Notre  Dame 
street,  formerly  the  chief  retail  street  in  Montreal. 
Turning  eastward  a  few  feet  from  Notre  Dame  church, 
on  the  left,  167 1,  J.  &  E.  McEntyre,  merchant  tailors. 
They  make  all  my  clothes  and  have  for  the  past  six- 
teen years,  therefore  if  they  can  fit  me  further  com- 
ments are  unnecessary.  A  little  above  is  Lanthier  & 
Co.  Let  us  go  on,  we  shall  soon  arrive  at  the  Court 
House,  a  fine  Giecian  building  of  simple  and  massive 
appearance.  A  few  steps  further  on  the  right  brings 
us  to  Nelson's  monument,  setting  forth  in  bas-relief 
the  various  victories  which  the  great  naval  hero  won 
without  the  loss  of  a  single  British  ship.  This  monu- 
ment is  in  Jacques  Cartier  Square,  at  the  foot  of 
which  is  the  wharf  of  Quebec  steamers. 

Keeping  on  Notre  Dame  street,  directly  beside  the 
monument,  we  find  opposite  to  each  other  two  build- 
ings which  form  a  sharp  contrast.  The  one  on  the 
'eft  is  the  new  City  Hall,  a  lofty  and  ornate  speci- 
men of  French  architecture  ;  facing  it  is  the  "old 
chateau,"  a  structure  probably  thought  very  fine  a 
century  ago,  when   Benjamin  Franklin  set  up   in  it 


.'.I 


122 


the  first  printing  press  ever  used  in  the  city.  Now 
the  old  place  is  a  Normal  school,  and  the  discoveries 
of  the  illustrious  American  are  explained  there,  and 
let  us  hope  his  witty  sayings  repeated  and  acted  upon. 
We  can  now  take  our  way  to  the  river  side,  and  a 
block  from  Jacques  Cartier  Square  shall  find  Bon- 
secours  Market,  a  vast  substantial  Doric  structure. 
Here,  if  it  be  market  day,  we  may  see  a  little  of  the 
French  Canadian  peasantry,  clad  in  their  homespun, 
and  bargaining  about  their  fowls,  or  eggs,  or  butter, 
with  many  queer  words  and  phrases  now  almost  for- 
gotten in  the  Normandy,  whence  they  were  first 
brought.  Next  to  the  market  is  Bonsecours  Church, 
a  rough-cast  building  with  a  high  pitched  roof,  and 
with  a  breadth  of  a  few  feet  adjoining  it,  occupied  by 
cobblers  and  cake  shops.  This  church  is  the  oldest 
Roman  Catholic  one  in  the  city  ;  its  entrance  is  at 
the  farther  side  ;  rarely  is  it  unoccupied  by  some  wor- 
shippers from  the  adjacent  market,  who  bring  in, 
without  ceremony,  their  baskets  and  bundles.  Sus- 
pended over  the  altar  is  a  model  of  a  ship  in  bright 
tin,  in  which  usually  burning  tapers  are  placed. 
Returning,  on  the  water-front,  we  note  the  ships  and 
steamers  from  Liverpool,  Glasgow,  London,  Havre, 
Rotterdam  and  other  ports  ;  and  on  the  right  succes- 
sively pass  the  Custom  House,  a  triangular  building, 
with  a  clock  tower  ;  the  office  of  the  Allen  line,  also 
having  a  clock,  and  the  fine  building  of  the  Harbor 
Commissioners.  Next  to  it  is  a  curious  looking  pile, 
with  external  hoist- ways  from  top  to  bottom  ;  this  is 
the  Customs  Examining  Warehouse.  Before  we  leave 
this  vicinity,  we  shall  glance  backward  at  the  street 
from  Allen's  ouice  to  the  Custom  House. 


! 


123 


Taking  a  short  journey,  still  upon  the  river  front, 
we  come  to  the  great  works  of  stone-masonry,  which 
give  to  Montreal  an  enlarged  canal  to  Lachine,  so 
that  vessels  of  much  greater  tonnage  than  the  ones 
at  present  used  may  be  employed  in  the  grain  trade. 
This  enterprise  is  one  of  a  series  of  canal  improve- 
ments by  which  Canada  strives  to  retain  and  increase 
its  business  as  a  highway  for  the  shipment  of  western 
produce  to  the  sea-board. 

Retracing  our  steps,  we  take  the  wide  street  running 
up  from  the  city,  McGill,  and  mark  the  fine  ware- 
houses that  adorn  it.  Arriving  at  Notre  Dame  street, 
a  little  above,  on  the  left,  John  Murphy  &  Co.,  who 
invite  you  to  inspect  their  stock,  styles  and  prices. 
Adjoining  is  Mr.  S.  Carsley,  who  occupies  the  six 
or  seven  stores  in  succession.  Something  should  be 
said  here  relative  to  Mr.  Carsley's  establishment, 
which  is  admitted  to  be  the  finest  as  well  as  the 
largest  in  Canada.  In  doing  so  I  shall  not  speak  of 
the  man  but  of  the  sterling  features  adopted  as  a 
guide  in  the  past,  which  gave  him  prosperity  and 
success.  To  secure  the  finest  and  best  goods,  fresh 
from  the  factories  or  trade-centers,  this  establishment 
has  its  principal  house  in  London,  Eng.,  as  well  as  a 
resident  buyer  there.  It  also  selects  four  of  the  best 
judges  of  goods  required  for  the  home  market,  who 
go  to  the  trade-centers  of  Europe  two  or  three  times 
each  year  with  "carte  blanche"  to  make  any  pur- 
chases required.  The  imported  as  well  as  the  domestic 
goods  are  all  marked  in  plain  figures,  so  that  each 
purchaser  may  know  the  price ;  therefore  a  child  can 
buy  as  well  as  a  grown  person.  I  cheerfully  request 
you  to  visit  this  model  establishment  and  inspect  the 
ctyles,  goods  and    pricv;s,  and   if   you  do  not  make  a 


-!  ill 


1^ 


I 


124 


purchase  it  will  be  because  you  will  receive  so  much 
for  your  money  that  you  will  be  afraid  you  Cciunot 
carry  it  home.  Retracing  our  steps  back  to  McGill 
street,  we  turn  to  the  right,  and  immediately  in  front, 
just  one  block,  is  Victoria  Square,  which  contains  a 
statue  of  the  (Jueen,  by  Marshall  Wood.  Corner  St. 
James  street,  opposite,  on  the  left,  is  the  Albert 
Building.  Turning  to  the  right  we  enter  St.  James 
street.  The  first  building  of  note  on  the  right  is  the 
Ottawa  Buildings  ;  on  the  left  is  J.  J.  Milloy,  the 
tailor,  where  tailor-made  suits  for  ladies  are  a 
specialty.  A  little  further  on  the  right  is  G.  W.  Clark, 
the  Souvenir  Palace,  where,  if  you  enter,  the  sight  of 
such  rare  curiosities  and  splendid  souvenirs  will  cause 
you  to  wonder  how  you  got  in  without  a  ticket  ;  and 
a  little  above  is  Drysdale  &  Co.,  where  cheap  English 
reprints  of  all  the  popular  American  authors  may  be 
had.  This  is  the  largest  book-store  in  Canada.  A  little 
opposite  on  the  left  is  R.  Sharpley  &  Sons,  No.  225, 
their  new  store;  you  are  cordially  invited  to  see  and 
inspect  their  new  stock.  "Alexander's"  is  a  little  above, 
where  is  kept  a  first-class  restaurant,  confections, 
'•  bon-bons,"  etc.,  and  you  can  be  served  with  the  best 
the  market  affords.  On  our  way  to  the  Post  Office, 
from  whence  we  started,  at  the  corner  of  St.  Peter 
street  is  the  Mechanics'  Institute.  This  building  con- 
tains a  good  library,  the  admission  fee  to  which  is  only 
no.Tiinal,  luid  a  very  good  reading  room,  having  on  its 
tables  the  principal  dailies  of  America,  the  London 
Times,  the  Glasgow  Herald,  the  Dublin  IVarder,  the 
Edinburgh  Siotsnian,  and  all  the  weeklies,  monthlies 
and  quarterlies  of  both  England  and  the  United  States. 
Strangers  can  have  free  access  to  this  reading-room, 
for   the   period    of  two  weeks,   by  applying  to   Mr. 


Hogan,  the  proprietor  of  the  new  St.  Lawrence  Hall. 
Opposite  to  the  Mechanics'  Institute  is  the  Merchants 
Bank,  built  in  modern  Italian  style,  with  polished 
granite  columns  at  the  entrance  ;  the  interior  of  this 
bank  should  be  seen  ;  the  main  office  is  carried  up  two 
stories  in  height  and  is  beautifully  frescoed.  Diagon- 
ally across  the  street  is  Moulson's  Bank,  also  of  Italian 
design,  and  richly  decorated.  We  are  now  nearly  at 
the  hotel  again,  where  we  may  conclude  for  the 
present  our  inspection  of  the  city. 

Resuming  our  sight-seeing,  we  shall  now  leave 
behind  us  the  business  streets,  and  take  our  way  to 
the  upper  part  of  Montreal.  Our  suggestion  is,  to 
take  St.  James  street  to  the  first  crossing  on  the  right 
as  you  leave  the  hotel,  St.  Peter  street.  After  two 
blocks  this  street  changes  its  name  to  Bleury  street. 
At  No.  17  Bleury  street,  we  may  enter  Notman's 
studio,  a  large  handsome  building  entirely  devoted  to 
photographic  art.  Here  we  may  spend  half  an  hour 
very  pleasantly  in  looking  over  views  of  Canadian 
scenery,  and  portraits  taken  singly  or  skillfully 
grouped,  representing  the  sports  and  pastimes  of  our 
winter.  The  chief  of  these  pictures  is  that  which 
shows  a  carnival  held  at  the  Victoria  Skating  Rink 
eight  years  ago,  when  H.  R.  H.  Prince  Arthur  was 
present.  This  photographic  marvel,  with  others  now 
surrounding  it  on  the  walls  of  Mr.  Notman,  attracted 
great  attention  and  admiration  at  the  Centennial 
Exhibition.  Mr.  Notman  was  photographer  to  the 
Exhibition  and  received  its  highest  awards. 

Continuing  on  Bleury  street,  we  soon  reach,  on  the 
left,  the  Church  of  the  Jesu,  with  St.  Mary's  College 
adjoining  it,  conducted  by  the  Jesuit  Fathers.  This 
church   is   modeled  after  one  of  the  same  name  at 


'^ 


126 


Rome,  where  the  remains  ot  Loyola  are  entombed. 
The  style  of  architecture  is  the  round  Roman  arch. 
The  interior  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  among 
American  churches.  Over  the  high  altar  is  a  fresco 
of  the  crucifixion.  In  the  southern  transept  the 
sufferings  of  the  first  Canadian  martyr,  burnt  by 
savages,  are  depicted.  Leaving  the  elegant  house  of 
prayer,  we  shall  continue  on  Bleury  street  until  we 
come  to  St.  Catherine  street.  A  few  steps  bring  us 
to  the  Nazareth  Asylum  for  the  Blind,  attached  to 
which  (No.  1091)  is  a  most  ornate  chapel,  decorated 
in  such  a  lovely  manner  as  to  lead  one  to  suppose 
that  it  was  done  to  encourage  the  suffering  inmates 
of  the  asylum  to  see. 

Next  building  on  this  side  of  the  street  (No.  1097) 
is  the  Roman  Catholic  Commercial  Academy,  a  lordly 
monument  of  wealth  and  munificence,  containing  all 
the  modern  aopliances  for  the  practical  training  of 
youth,  and  presided  over  by  an  able  staff  of  pro- 
fessors. If  we  keep  going  eastward  on  St.  Catherine 
street,  we  pass  on  St.  Dennis  street  the  immense 
parish  church  of  St.  James,  with  the  tallest  spire  in 
the  city.  Near  by  is  the  new  church  which  ii  dedi- 
cated to  Notre  Dame  De  Lourdes ;  water  and  relics 
from  her  shrine  at  Lourdes,  in  Franco,  are  for  sale  in 
the  basement.  Adjoining  the  churcii  are  its  con- 
ventual buildings. 

Returning  on  St.  Catherine  street,  we  soon  come 
to  Christ  Church  Cathedral  (Church  of  England), 
unquestionably  the  most  beautiful  specimen  of  Gothic 
architecture  in  Canada.  It  is  of  a  cruciform  design; 
its  extreme  width  is  100  feet.  The  spire,  which  is 
entirely  of  stone,  rises  to  the  height  of  224  feet.  The 
materi:*ls   of    construction   are    Montreal    limestone 


127 


and  stone  from  Caen,  in  Normandy,  which  latter,  by- 
exposure  to  the  weather,  has  chang-ed  from  almost 
pure  whiteness  to  a  yellow  tint.  On  the  grounds  of 
the  Cathedral  are  erected  the  residences  of  the  bishop 
and  his  assistants,  the  Synod  Hall,  t^nd  also  a  fine 
monument  to  Bishop  Fulford,  the  first  Metropolitan 
of  Canada.  The  street  running  on  the  farther  side  of 
the  Cathedral,  is  University  street,  and  No.  82,  one 
block  distant,  is  the  Natural  History  Museum,  con- 
taining a  good  Canadian  collection.  University  street 
leads  us  down  to  Dorchester  street,  on  the  corner  of 
which  is  the  St.  James  Club  House.  On  the  opposite 
corner  is  the  Free  Fraser  Library  Building.  Taking 
Dorchester  street  eastward,  we  pass  on  the  left  St. 
Paul's  Church  (Presbyterian).  On  the  same  side  we 
soon  have  a  view  of  the  vast  proportions  of  the  new 
St.  Peter's  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral. 

Across  the  square  on  which  St.  Peter's  is  building, 
we  notice  a  beautiful  church,  St.  George's  (Church  of 
England),  and  adjoining  it  is  its  Sunday-school,  the 
largest  and  best  conducted  in  Canada.  On  Dorches- 
ter street,  fronting  Dominion  Square  on  Peel  street, 
is  the  VVindsor  Hotel.  A  little  below  on  Windsor 
street  is  the  new  depot  oi  the  Canada  Pacific  R.  R., 
the  largest  and  grandest  in  Canada.  Next  beyond  on 
Dorchester  street  is  the  Victoria  Skating  Rink,  where 
immense  carnivals  are  held  in  the  winter — the  grand- 
est in  the  world.  In  the  summer  the  spacious  edifice 
is  used  for  concerts,  walking  matches,  public  gather- 
ings, meetings,  etc.  Two  blocks  distant  is  the  Found- 
ling Hospital  of  the  Gray  Nun,  a  visit  to  which  is  thus 
described  :  "A  long  procession  of  the  nuns  marched 
slowly  into  the  chapel  and  knelt  in  prayer.  Each 
nun  had  a  crucifix  and  a  string  of  beads  attached, 


m 


■Vl 


':« 


ifl 


■^i 


128 


and  whatever  may  have  been  the  case  with  their 
thoughts,  there  eyes  never  wandered,  notwithstanding 
strangers  were  ga/ing  at  them.  Some  were  young 
and  pretty,  others  old  and  plain,  but  the  sacred  char- 
acter of  their  labor  of  love  invested  them  all  with 
beauty.  We  said  the  eyes  of  none  wandered.  Per- 
haps we  ought  to  confess  that  the  ouick,  sharp  glance 
of  one,  apparently  younger  than  the  others,  stared  at 
us  for  a  moment  ;  but  it  was  only  curiosity — womanly 
curiosity — and  what  woman  has  not  the  curiosity  to 
look  at  me  ?  Vet  tiiat  moment  was  fruitful  of  thought, 
and  as  we  saw  the  sad,  dark-eyed  beauty  rise  in  her 
place  and  mechanically  follow  her  more  staid  sisters, 
our  mind  went  back  to  the  days  of  chivalry,  when 
gallant  knights  rode  with  lance  at  rest,  or  wielded  the 
heavy  battle  axe  in  heroic  deeds  that  they  might  win 
recognition  from  the  proud  ladies  who  looked  down 
upon  them.  And  as  we  thought,  it  seemed  that  the 
most  gallant  deeds  that  men  of  this  nineteenth 
century  might  do,  would  be  to  rescue  young  and 
pretty  nuns — who  wanted  to  be  rescued  — from  the 
silence  and  sadness  of  the  nunnery."  Again  on  our 
way,  we  are  arrested  by  an  immense  structure  even 
larger  than  the  institution  just  passed  ;  it  is  the  Mon- 
treal College,  which  educates  ecclesiastics,  and  also 
day  pupils,  and  is  under  the  care  of  the  Sulpician 
fathers.  Two  Martello  towers  in  front  of  the  college 
are  relics  of  the  times  when  incessant  strife  raged 
between  the  settlers  and  the  Indians.  Sherbrooke 
street  is  adorned  with  the  private  residences  of  which 
the  citizens  of  Montreal  are  proud,  and  in  your  drive 
around  the  town,  previous  to  or  after  returning  from 
Park  Mountain  drive,  it  wiil  repay  one  to  drive 
through  Sherbrooke,   Dennis  and  Dorchester  streets. 


■1 


I  29 

The  McGill  College,  University  and  spacious  grounds 
are  the  next  points. 

As  we  pass  along  Sherbrooke  street,  in  the  distance 
we  observe,  as  we  glance  up  St.  Famille  street,  the 
enormous  Hotel  Dieu,  with  a  large,  bright  dome,  a 
free  hospital  for  all,  under  Roman  Catholic  direction. 

Returning  to  the  Post  Office,  preferably  by  Beaver 
Hall  Hill,  we  shall  not  fail  to  be  struck  by  the  num- 
ber of  handsome  churches  erected  there  together. 
On  the  right  is  the  Unitarian  church  ;  on  the  left, 
successively,  a  Presbyterian,  Baptist  and  a  Jewish 
synagogue.  .  Near  by,  on  Craig  street,  is  a  towered 
building  occupied  by  the  Young  Men's  Christian 
Association. 

We  are  soon  at  the  new  St.  Lawrence  Hall,  and 
before  menticning  the  drive  that  may  be  taken  out- 
side the  city,  it  may  be  well  to  call  attention  to  a  few 
places  near  at  hand  a  business  man  or  student  may- 
be interested  in  visiting  :  The  Corn  Exchange,  foot  of 
St.  John  street,  the  Merchants'  Exchange,  St.  Sacra- 
ment street,  the  office  of  the  Telegraph  Co.,  and  the 
Open  Stock  Exchange,  St.  Francis  Xavier  street. 
Near  the  beginning  of  St.  James  street,  on  St. 
Gabriel  street,  is  the  Geological  Museum,  open  daily 
from  10  to  4,  containing  an  admirable  collection  of 
North  American  minerals,  and  many  interesting  fos- 
sils. Here  may  be  seen  what  many  geologists  regard 
as  the  most  primitive  record  of  life,  the  Eoxoon 
Canaddense,  first  noticed  at  Perth,  Ontario,  by  a  Mr. 
Wilson.  From  the  fact  that  the  oldest  fossil  bearing 
stratum,  the  Laurentian,  is  the  backbone,  geograph- 
ically of  Canada,  and  because  of  the  great  variety  of 
rocks  found  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Montreal, 
this  museum   is  particularly  attractive  to  a  lover  of 


■I 


■I 

m 

■  i 


I 


f\ 


130      • 

science.  An  effort  is  on  foot  to  deprive  the  city  of 
tliis  collection,  and,  for  the  siike  of  centralization, 
remove  it  to  Ottawa.  1  offer  this  as  an  apology  in 
case  it  should  be  removed. 


:    'i 


DRIVES. 

As  I  have  said  two  or  three  times,  by  far  the  most 
pleasant  drive  is  up  the  brow  of  Mount  Royal,  called 
the  Park  Mountain  drive.  There  are,  presumably, 
two  roads  ;  the  shorter  returns  by  McTavish  street, 
the  other  by  Bleury.  The  park  was  laid  out  by  Mr. 
Olmstead,  the  designer  of  Central  Park^  New  York, 
whose  achievements  there  were  recognized  by  a  statue 
adorning  one  of  the  entrances.  The  river  view  from 
Mount  Royal  is  delightful,  and  must  be  seen  to  be 
appreciated.  I  dare  not  attempt  to  describe  it.  A 
suggestion  of  how  to  get  a  hundred  pictures  of  every 
conceivable  shape  or  form  of  landscape  views,  con- 
taining mountain,  plain,  k  iver,  lake,  hillside,  valley 
etc.,  etc.,  is  to  close  the  eyes,  place  the  hands  on  each 
end  of  the  forehead,  and  every  time  the  carriage  moves 
a  hundred  feet  open  the  eyes,  and  you  have  an  entire 
new  picture.  Keep  this  up  until  you  have  had  an 
elegant  sufficiency  of  view.  The  next  drive  is  around 
the  mountain,  and  was  the  best  until  the  completion 
of  the  Park  mountain  drive;  it  is  pleasant  and 
attractive,  when  it  includes  a  drive  to  the  Catholic  and 
Protestant  cemeteries,  giving  a  view  of  the  monuments 
and  tombs.  The  drive  to  Lachine  is  next,  and  is  of 
interest.  The  drive  to  Longue  Point,  along  the  St. 
Lawrence  in  the  opposite  direction  to  the  last,  gives 
us  an  entirely  different  kind  of  scenery.  It  takes  us 
through  the  village  of  Hochelaga,  the  terminus  of  the 


I  -W-  -»?i^  "l*!**-  ~*V»>M«> 


13' 


new  railroad,  the  Ouebec,  Montreal,  Ottawa  and 
Occidental,  which  runs  along  the  north  shore  of  the 
St.  Lawrence,  and  develops  tracts  of  country  as  yet 
unbenefited  by  the  iron  horse.  About  a  mile  from  the 
depot  is  the  beautiful  convent  of  the  Sisters  of  the 
Holy  Names  of  Jesus  and  Mary.  Many  young  ladies 
from  the  United  States  have  been  educated  at  this 
convent.  The  next  noteworthy  building  is  the  I^unatic 
Asylum.  This  immense  house,  containing  nearly  300 
maniacs,  idiots  and  imbeciles,  is  controlled  by  the 
Sisters  of  Providence;  these  ladies,  with  the  exception 
of  six  guardians  for  desperate  characters,  and  a  phy- 
sician, have  sole  charge.  They  find  no  trouble  in  the 
care  of  the  numerous  inmates,  and  by  their  kindness 
and  tact  restore  mental  balance,  in  all  the  cases  where 
cure  is  possible,  in  a  tithe  the  time  it  used  to  take  in 
the  old  days,  when  the  insane  were  treated  with 
harshness  and  cruelty.  On  our  way  to  Longue 
Point,  the  village  of  Longueuil,  Boucherville  and 
Varennes  lie  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river.  The 
drive  to  the  Back  River  is  an  attractive  one,  and 
with  citizens  the  most  attractive  of  all  ;  the  beautiful 
convent  of  the  Sacred  Heart  is  situated  here,  and  its 
grounds,  finely  laid  out,  lead  directly  to  the  water's 
edge.  The  bridge  which  spans  the  river  at  this  place 
— a  branch  of  the  Ottawa— affords  one  of  the  charac- 
teristic sights  of  Canada,  the  piloting  of  a  raft  through 
a  tortuous  channel.  The  size  of  an  ordinary  raft,  its 
great  value,  from  |ioo,oooto  $300,000,  the  excitement 
of  the  captain  and  his  French  and  Indian  crew,  with 
the  constant  perils  threatening  the  whole  structure, 
all  conjoin  to  make  up  a  scene  to  be  dwelt  upon  and 
long  remembered.     Thus  hoping  the   same   will    be 


4' 


132 


said  of  your  visit  to  Montreal,  I  shall  advise  all  to 


visit 


h    i 


'i 


I  4  J 

3 

,1 

I 


QUEBEC. 

Tourists  can  either  take  the  Grand  Trunk,  thv^ 
North  Shore,  or  the  Richelieu  &  Ontario  Navigation 
Co.'s  line  of  steamers.  Tickets  can  be  procured  of 
the  Company's  agent  opposite  the  new  St.  Lawrence 
Hall  building,  where  staterooms,  etc.,  may  be  secured. 
I  assume  that  the  river  is  the  route  selected,  and  that 
the  reader  is  fairly  on  his  way  to  that  ancient  city  and 
former  capital.  Passing  a  group  of  islands  below 
Montreal  and  the  moutli  of  the  Ottawa  River,  we 
soon  arrive  at 

SOREL, 

forty-five  miles  below — the  first  landing  made  by  the 
steamer.  It  was  built  upon  the  site  of  a  fort  built  in 
1755,  by  M.  De  Tracy,  and  was  for  many  years  the 
summer  residence  of  many  successive  Governors  of 
Canada.  Five  miles  below,  the  broad  expanse  of  the 
river  is  called 

LAKE  ST.  PETER, 

which  is  about  nine  miles  wide.  The  St.  Francis 
River  enters  here.  Large  rafts  are  observed  here 
slowly  floating  to  the  great  mart  of  Quebec. 

THREE  RIVERS 

is  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  Rivers  St.  Maurice 
and  St.  Lawrence,  ninety  miles  below  Montreal,  and 
the  same   distance  above  Quebec.     It   is  one  of  the 


^33 


o 


. 


oldest  settled  towns  in  Canada,  having  been  founded 
in  1618.  It  is  well  laid  out  and  contains  many  good 
buildings,  among  which  are  the  Court  House,  the 
Jail,  the  Roman  Catholic  Ciiurch,  the  Ursuiine  Con- 
vent, the  English  and  Wesleyan  Churches.  The 
population  of  Three  Rivers  is  about  9,200. 

BASTICAN 

is  situated  on  the  north  shore  of  the  river,  one  hun- 
dred and  seventeen  miles  below  Montreal.  It  is  the 
last  place  the  steamers  stop  at  before  reaching  Quebec. 
It  is  a  place  of  little  importance. 

In  passing  down  the  St.  Lawrence  from  Montreal, 
the  country  upon  its  banks  presents  a  sameness  in  its 
general  scenery,  until  we  approach  the  vicinity  of 
Quebec.  The  village  and  hamlets  are  decidedly 
French  in  character,  generally  made  up  of  small 
buildings,  the  better  class  of  which  are  painted  white 
or  whitewashed,  with  red  roofs.  Prominent  in  the 
distance  appear  the  tile-ccvered  spires  of  the  Catholic 
Churches,  which  are  all  constructed  in  that  unique 
style  of  architecture  so  peculiar  to  that  church. 

During  your  stay  in  Quebec  stop  at  the  St.  Louis 
Hotel,  and  if  carriages  are  desired  the  hotel  will 
furnish  the  same.  This  was  made  necessary  in  order 
to  stop  the  imposition  that  is  practiced  by  outside 
parties.  N.  B.— Fur  Department  and  Indian  Bazaar, 
St.  Louis  Hotel,  Quebec.  Tourists  are  invited  to  visit 
the  Fur  Wareroom  adjoining  the  Ladies  Parlor,  con- 
taining one  of  the  largest  and  most  valuable  stocks 
of  furs  in  Canada  at  moderate  prices.  Ladies'  sacques, 
caps  and  muffs,  etc.  J.  C.  King,  Supt.  There  are 
four   splendid  drives    laid    out    for    the  visitor   and 


n\ 


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'4 


J 


^!*fl 


Hi 
M 

m 


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if 


i  i 


134 

tourist  ;  a  neat  little  pamphlet  descriptive  of  the  same, 
entitled,  "Views  of  the  City  of  Quebec,"  will  be 
given  you  by  asking  the  clerk,  Mr.  J.  H.  Phillips,  or 
the  news  agent,  of  the  St.  Louis  Hotel.  They  are 
instructed  not  to  give  them  ''free;'  unless  you  say  I 
sent  you  for  one  or  show  them  this  notice. 

CITY  OF  QUEBEC. 

Quebec,  by  its  historic  fame  and  its  unequalcd 
scenery,  is  no  ordinary  or  commonplace  city,  for 
though,  like  other  large  communities,  it  carries  on 
trade,  commerce  and  manufactures  ;  cultivates  art, 
science  and  literature;  abounds  in  charities,  and  pro- 
fesses special  regard  to  the  amenities  of  social  life, 
it  claims  particular  attention  as  being  a  strikingly 
unique  old  place,  the  stronghold  of  Canada,  and,  in 
fact,  the  Key  of  the  Province.  Viewed  from  any  of 
its  approaches,  it  impresses  the  stranger  with  the 
conviction  of  strength  and  permanency.  The  reader  of 
American  history,  on  enterin?^-  its  gates  or  wandering 
over  its  squares,  ramparts  and  battle-fields,  puts  him- 
self at  once  in  communion  with  the  illustrious  dead. 
The  achievements  of  daring  mariners,  the  labors  of 
self-sacrificing  Missionaries  of  the  Cross,  and  the 
conflicts  of  military  heroes,  who  bled  and  died  in  the 
assault  and  defence  of  its  walls,  are  here  re-read  with 
ten-fold  interest.  Then  the  lover  of  nature  in  her 
grandest  and  most  rugged,  as  in  hergentler  and  most 
smiling  forms,  will  find  in  and  around  it  an  affluence 
of  sublime  and  beautiful  objects.  The  man  of  science, 
too,  may  be  equally  gratified,  for  here  the  great  forces 
of  nature  and  secret  alchemy  may  be  studied  with 
advantage.     Quebec  can  never  be  a  tame  or  insipid 


L- 


135 


le, 
be 
or 
re 
I 


place,  and  with  moderate  opportunities  for  advance- 
ment, it  must  become  one  of  the  greatest  cities  of  the 
New  World  in  respect  to  learning,  art,  commerce  and 
manufactures. 

The  city  of  Quebec  was  founded  by  Samuel  de 
Champlain,  in  1608.  In  1622  the  population  was 
reduced  to  fifty  souls. 

In  June,  1759,  the  English  army  under  General 
Wolfe  landed  upon  the  Island  of  Orleans.  On  the 
12th  of  September  took  place  the  celebrated  battle  of 
the  Plains  of  Abraham,  which  resulted  in  the  death 
of  Wolfe  and  the  defeat  of  the  French  army.  A  force 
of  5, 000  English  troops,  under  General  Murray,  were 
left  to  garrison  the  fort.  The  city  is  very  interesting 
to  a  stranger ;  it  is  the  only  walled  city  in  North 
America. 

Cape  Diamond,  upon  which  the  citadel  stands,  is 
three  hundred  and  forty-five  feet  in  height,  and 
derives  its  name  from  the  quantity  of  crystal  mixed 
with  the  granite  below  its  surface.  The  fortress 
includes  the  whole  space  on  the  Cape. 

Above  the  spot  where  General  Montgomery  was 
killed,  is  now  the  inclined  plane,  running  to  the  top  of 
the  bank  ;  it  is  five  hundred  feet  long,  and  is  used  by 
the  Government  to  convey  stores  and  other  articles 
of  great  weight  to  the  fortress. 


i! 


.1 


•.if:  I 


THE  CITADEL 

will,  perhaps,  prove  the  point  of  greatest  interest  to 
many,  from  the  historical  association  connected  there- 
with, and  from  the  fact  that  it  is  considered  an 
impregnable  fortress.  It  covers  an  enclosed  area  of 
forty  acres,  and  is  some  three  hundred  and  forty  feet 


i 


.v. 

'<  !l 


'i  I 


I    1!i 


136 

above  the  river  level.  The  zigzag  passages  through 
which  you  enter  the  fortress,  between  high  and  mas- 
sive granite  walls,  is  swept  at  every  turn  by  formid- 
able batteries  of  heavy  guns.  On  the  forbidding 
river  v\'alls  and  at  each  angle  of  possible  commanding 
point,  guns  of  heavy  calibre  sweep  every  avenue  of 
approach  by  the  river.  Ditches,  breast-works  and 
frowning  batteries  command  the  approaches  by  land 
from  the  famed  '-Plains  of  Abraham."  The  precipit- 
ous bluffs,  rising  almost  perpendicula'-ly  from  the 
river  three  hundred  and  forty  feet,  present  a  natural 
barrier  which  may  be  swept  with  murderous  fire,  and 
the  covered  ways  of  approach  and  retreat,  the  various 
kinds  and  calibre  of  guns,  mortars,  howitzers,  and 
munitions  of  war,  will  be  viewed  with  eager  interest. 
Among  the  places  of  note  may  be  mentioned  the 
Plains  of  Abraham,  with  its  humble  monument  mark- 
ing the  place  where  fell  the  illustrious  Wolfe  ;  the 
Governor's  Garden,  with  its  monument  to  Wolfe  and 
Montcalm  ;  the  spot  where  fell  the  American  general, 
Montgomery ;  St.  John's  Gate,  the  only  gate  remain- 
ing of  the  five  that  originally  pierced  the  waits 
of  the  city ;  the  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral,  with 
its  many  fine  old  paintings;  the  Episcopal  Cathedral  ; 
the  Esplanade,  from  which  is  one  of  the  finest  views  in 
the  world  ;  Houses  of  Parliament ;  Spencer  Wood,  the 
residence  of  the  Lieutenant  Governor,  Laval  Univer- 
sity, &c ,  &c. 

The  city  and  environs  abound  in  drives,  varying 
from  five  to  thirty  miles,  in  addition  to  being  on  the 
direct  line  of  travel  to  the  far-famed  Saguenay, 
Murray  Bay,  Kamouraska,  Gacouna,  Rimouski  Gaspe, 
and  other  noted  watering  places. 


«     1 


137 

Quebec  can  minister  abundantly  to  the  tastes  of 
tliose  who  like  to  fish,  yacht,  or  shoot.  Yachting,  in 
fact,  has  become  of  late  the  leading  recreation  in 
Ouebec.  You  can  on  those  mellow  Saturday  after- 
noons of  August  and  September,  meet  the  whole 
sporting  and  fashionable  world  of  Upper  Town  on 
the  Durham  Terrace  or  Lower  Town  wharves,  bent 
on  witnessing  a  trial  of  speed  or  seamanship  between 
the  Mouetfe,  the  Black  Hawk^  the  IVasp^  the  Shannon, 
the  Bonhomnie  Richard^  and  half  a  score  of  crack 
yachts,  with  their  owners. 

Let  us  see  what  the  city  contains: — First,  the 
west  wing,  built  about  17S9,  by  Governor  F  ildimand, 
to  enlarge  the  old  chateau  burnt  down  in  January, 
1734;  this  mouldering  pile,  now  used  as  the  Normal 
School,  is  all  that  remains  of  the  stately  edfice  of  old, 
overhanging  and  facing  the  Cul-de-Sac,  where  the 
lordly  Count  de  Frontenac  held  his  quasi  regal  court 
in  169 1 ;  next,  the  Laval  University,  founded  in  1854, 
conferring  degrees  under  its  royal  charter;  the  course 
of  study  is  similar  to  that  of  the  celebrated  Europem 
University  of  Louvain;  then  there  is  the  Ouebec 
Seminary,  erected  by  Bishop  Laval,  at  Montmorency, 
in  1663  ;  the  Ursuline  Convent,  founded  in  1836  by 
Madame  de  la  Peltrie;  this  nunnery,  with  the  Roman 
Catholic  Cathedral,  which  was  built  in  1646,  contains 
many  valuable  paintings,  which  left  France  about 
1789;  the  General  Hospital,  founded  two  centuries 
ago  by  Monseigneur  de  St.  Vallier;  in  1659,  it  was 
tne  chief  hospital  for  the  wounded  and  the  dying  of 
the  memorable  battle  of  the  13th  September  ;  Arnold 
and  his  Continentals  found  protection  against  the 
rigors   of    a   Canadian    winter   behind    its    walls    in 


1 


.y 

3 


I 


If!! 


.T(    ■  ■ » 


1775-6;  the    Hotel    Dieu   Nunnery,  close   to   Palac 
Grite,  dating  more  than  2od  years  back. 

As  to  the  views  to  be  obtained  from  Durham  Ter- 
race, the  Glacis  and  the  Citadel,  they  are  unique  in 
grandeur.  Each  street  has  its  own  familiar  vista  of 
the  surrounding  country. 

THE  SHRINE  AND  FALLS  OF  STE.  ANNE. 

At  the  distance  of  about  twenty  miles  below 
Quebec  is  the  village  of  Ste.  Anne  de  Beaupre,  some- 
times called  Ste.  Anne  du  Nord,  and  always  called 
Za  Bonne  Ste.  Anne,  to  whom  is  consecrated  the  parish 
church,  erected  about  four  years  ago  by  the  Pope  into 
a  shrine  of  the  first  order,  in  which  is  a  fine  painting 
by  the  famous  artist  LeBrun,  Ste.  Anne  and  the 
Virgin,  presented  by  M.  de  Tracey,  Viceroy  of  New 
France,  in  1666,  to  the  church,  for  benefits  received. 
The  festival  day  of  this  Saint  is  the  26th  of  July,  at 
which  time  thousands  of  pilgrims  proceed  not  only 
by  steamer  and  carriage,  but  on  foot,  to  this  holy 
shrine  ;  many  walk  the  whole  distance  from  Quebec  to 
the  church  as  a  penance,  or  in  performance  of  vows. 
The  church  is  a  new  building,  the  old  one  having 
been  found  too  small  for  the  accommodation  of  the 
crowds  of  pilgrims  who  resorted  there.  In  it  are 
phiced  thousands  of  crutches,  left  by  those  who 
departed  after  being  cured  of  the  lameness  and  other 
maladies  by  the  Bonne  Ste.  Anne,  whose  praises  are 
world  wide,  for  hither  congregate  daily  thousands  of 
pilgrims  from  all  parts  to  be  cured  of  their  infirm- 
ities. Deposited  in  the  sanctuary  is  a  holy  relic, 
being  a  finger  bone  of  the  saint  herself,  on  kissing 
which   the  devotee   is    immediately    relieved    of    all 


1 


in 

lof 


139 

worldly  ills  and  misfortunes.  Wonder  begins  and 
misbelief  vanishes  on  gazing  at  the  piles  of  crutches; 
there  one  beholds  unmistakable  evidence  of  the 
unlimited  medicinal  powers  of  the  mother  of  the 
Virgin.  Daily  are  the  proofs  of  this  power;  the 
stranger  can  see  with  his  own  eyes  the  decrepid,  the 
halt,  the  sore,  the  lame,  the  wounded  carried  into  the 
holy  sanctuary  and  depart  therefrom,  after  kissing  the 
holy  relic,  cured  and  whole.  Many  are  the  scenes 
here  witnessed  of  the  despairing  filled  with  renewed 
hope,  and  the  feeble  and  faint  glad  again  with 
strength  and  health.  Countless  are  the  anecdotes  of 
the  hopelessly  blind  and  lame  returning  to  their 
friends  with  sight  and  firm  limbs,  leaving  behind 
them  their  bandages  and  crutches.  Incredulity 
vanishes  before  such  evidence,  and  the  sceptic  leaves 
the  shrine  of  Ste.  Anne  with  convictions  deeply 
settled  in  his  soul.  Within  three  miles  of  the  village 
are  the  Falls  of  Ste.  Anne,  which  consists  of  seven 
cascades,  one  of  which  rushes  through  a  narrow 
chasm,  which  can  be  leaped  by  one  of  strong  nerves 
and  sinews,  but  powerful  as  Ste.  Anne  is,  and  devoted 
as  she  is  to  miracles,  it  is  doubtful  whether  even  she 
could  save  the  unfortunate  who  misses  his  leap. 

The  fishing  above  and  below  the  Falls  is  very  good 
for  both  salmon  and  trout,  and  the  scenery  of  that 
wild  description  generally  characteristic  of  the 
Laurentian  ranges. 

MONTMORENCY    FALLS 

are  seven  miles  below  Quebec.  The  road  is  very 
pleasant,  passing  through  the  French  village  of 
Beauport.     Those  who  expect  to  see  a  second  Niagara 


in 


m 


■■Vi| 


l!    i 


HI  '-i 


140 

will  be  somewhat  disappointed,  as  far  as  volume  is 
concerned.  The  stream  descends  in  silvery  threads, 
over  a  precipice  265  feet  in  height,  and,  in  connection 
with  the  surrounding  scenery,  is  extremely  pic- 
turesque and  beautiful,  but  does  not  inspire  the  awe 
felt  at  Niagara.  On  June  8,  1887,  with  some  friends 
we  paid  this  delightful  place  a  visit,  and  were  enter- 
tained by  the  hotel  proprietor,  Mr.  T.  Bureau,  in 
royal  style,  which,  after  the  tramp  over  all  the 
grounds  and  down  the  three  hundred  and  sixty-five 
steps  with  the  thermometer  85°  in  the  shade,  will 
always  be  retained  as  one  of  the  grandest  spots  in 
memory. 

POINT   LEVIS, 

on  the  other  side  of  the  river,  opposite  Quebec,  will 
interest  the  stranger  very  much,  immense  and  stu- 
pendous fortifications  being  in  process  of  erection. 
Most  tourists  visiting  Quebec  pay  the  Saguenay  a 
visit.  The  ticket  office  of  this  line  is  opposite  the 
St.  Louis  Hotel,  where  my  genial  friend,  Mr.  R.  M. 
Stocking,  or  his  assistant,  Mr.  Henry  Harris,  will 
cheerfully  impart  any  information  required,  he  being 
the  agent  for  all  railroads  and  steamboats  in  Canada 
or  that  connect  with  the  same  in  the  United  States. 


TO   SUMMER    TOURISTS. 

Visit  St.  Lawrence  Hall  Caconna.  This  elegant 
and  spacious  hotel,  situated  at  the  beautiful  and 
fashionable  Canadian  Watering  Place  on  the  Lower 
St.  Lawrence,  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  below 
Quebec,  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  far-famed  Saguenay 
River,  opened  for  guests  June  15th,  under  the  manage- 


MiMvim 


141 

ment  of  an  American  of  hotel  fame,  who  for  many 
years  has  been  connected  with  tlie  leading  hotels 
in   the  United  States. 

RIVER  SAGUENAY. 

To  the  pleasure-seeker,  or  to  the  man  of  science, 
there  can  be  nothing  more  refreshing  and  delightful, 
nothing  affording  more  food  for  rellection  or 
scientific  observation,  than  a  trip  to  that  most  won- 
derful of  rivers,  the  Saguenay.  On  the  way  thither, 
the  scenery  of  the  Lower  St.  Lawrence  is  extraor- 
dinarily picturesque;  a  broad  expanse  of  water, 
interspersed  with  rugged  solitary  islets,  higlily  culti- 
vated islands,  and  islands  covered  with  trees  to  the 
water's  edge,  hemmed  in  by  lofty  and  precipitous 
mountains  on  the  one  side,  nnd  by  a  continuous  street 
of  houses,  relieved  by  beautifully  situated  villages, 
the  spires  of  whose  tin-covered  churches  glitter  in 
the  sunshine,  affords  a  prospect  so  enchanting  that, 
were  nothing  else  to  be  seen,  the  tourist  would  be 
well  repaid  ;  but  when,  in  addition  to  all  this,  the 
tourist  suddenly  passes  from  a  landscape  unsurpassed 
for  beauty  into  a  region  of  primitive  grandeur,  where 
art  has  done  nothing,  and  nature  everything;  when, 
at  a  single  bound,  civilization  is  left  behind  and 
nature  stares  him  in  the  face,  in  naked  majesty  ;  when 
he  sees  Alps  on  Alps  arise;  when  he  floats  over 
unfathomable  depths,  through  a  mountain  gorge,  the 
sublime  entirely  overwhelms  the  sense  of  sight  and 
fascinates  imagination. 

The  change  produced  upon  the  thinking  part  ot 
man,  in  passing  from  the  broad  St.  Lawrence  into 
the    seemingly   narrow,  and   awful,    deep  Saguenay, 


I 


142 


:r'if 


whose  waters  leave  the  sides  of  the  towering  moun- 
tains, which  almost  shut  out  the  very  light  of  heaven, 
is  such  that  no  pen  can  paint  nor  tongue  describe.  It 
is  a  river  one  should  see  if  only  to  know  what  dread- 
ful aspects  nature  can  assume  in  wild  moods.  Com- 
pared to  it  the  Dead  vSea  is  blooming,  and  the  wildest 
ravines  cozy  and  smiling;  it  is  wild  and  grand, 
apparently,  in  spite  of  itself.  On  either  side,  rise 
cliffs  varying  in  perpendicular  height  from  1,200  to 
1,600  feet,  and  this  is  the  character  of  the  River 
Saguenay  from  its  mouth  to  its  source.  Ha!  Ha! 
Bay,  whicli  is  60  miles  from  its  mouth,  afifords  the 
first  landing  and  anchorage.  The  name  of  this  bay 
is  said  to  arise  from  the  circumstance  of  early  navi- 
gators proceeding  in  sailing  vessels  up  a  river  of 
this  kind  for  60  miles,  with  eternal  sameness  of 
feature,  stern  and  high  rocks  on  which  they  could 
not  land,  and  no  bottom  for  their  anchors,  at  last 
broke  out  into  laughing  Ha  !  Ha  !  when  they  found 
landing  and  anchorage.  This  wonderful  river  seems 
one  huge  mountain  rent  asunder  at  some  remote  age 
by  some  great  convulsion  of  nature.  The  reader  who 
goes  to  see  it  (and  all  ought  to  do  so  who  can,  for  it 
is  one  of  the  great  natural  wonders  of  the  continent,) 
can  add  to  the  poetical  filling  up  of  the  picture  from 
his  own  imagination. 

This  beautiful  trip  is  easy  and  facile  of  accomplish- 
ment as  new  and  magnificent  boats,  rivaling  in  lux- 
uriousness  with  any  in  our  inland  waters,  run 
regularly  to  Ha!  Ha!  Bay,  on  board  of  which  the 
pleasure  seeker  will  experience  all  that  comfort  and 
accommodation  which  is  necessary  to  the  full  enjoy- 
ment of  such  a  trip. 


b. 


M3 


To  the  foregoing  descriptions  weappend  an  extract 
from  the  letter  of  a  writer  in  the  Buflalo  Commercial 
Aihertise)\  who  has  apparently  gone  over  the  "ground" 
with  much  satisfaction.  Speaking  of  the  great  pleas- 
ure route  he  says  : 

"  There  is  probably  no  route  in  the  known  world 
presenting  more  attractions  to  the  tourist  than  that 
from    Buffalo    to    Montreal    and    Quebec,    via    Lake 


Ontario  and  the  St.  Lawi 


first, 


Tence  river  ;  presenting, 
the  visit  to  the  great  Cataract,  next,   Lake  Ontario, 


tiie  river  St.  Lawrence,  and  the  romantic  scenery  of 
the  'Thousand  Isles  ;'  then  the  sublime  rapids,  increas- 
ing in  grandeur,  to  the  great  culmination  of  the 
'Lachine  Rapids,'  and  finally  finishing  with  the  beauti- 
ful scenery  of  and  around  the  falls  of  Montmorency, 
at  Quebec,  and  down  the  Saguenay — all  combine  to 
make  up  more  of  the  wild,  romantic  and  sublime 
than  can  be  found  in  the  same  number  of  miles  and 
almost  any  travelled  route  in  the  known  world." 

Returnving  to  Montreal  for  our  trip  down  Lake 
Cham  plain  and  Lake  George,  to  Saratoga,  Albany 
New  York  and  Boston,  as  most  of  the  tourists  have 
tickets  for  these  destinations,  the  routes  need  only 
be  mentioned.  The  Delaware  &  Hudson  Canal  Com- 
pany Railroad,  and  Central  Vermont  have  ticket 
offices  in  Montreal,  where  information  is  courteously 
dispensed  by  obliging,  gentlemanly  clerks  at  all 
times.  It  would  be  useless  here  to  print  the  time 
tables  of  the  different  roads,  as  changes  occur  too 
often  for  such  information  to  be  reliable.  As  you 
are  supposed  to  be  quartered  at  the  new  St.  Lawrence 
Hall,  which  is  in  the  heart  of  the  city,  and  contains 
the  Grand  Trunk  Railroad  and  Delaware  &  Hudson 
Canal  Company   offices,   where   at  all  times  may  be 


II 


' ,} 


■*■! 
V 


li-'' 


# 


I 


•44 

found  Mr.  C.  C.  McFall,  the  Dehuvare  &  Hudson 
Company's  c^enial  Aji^ent  for  tlie  Dominion  of  Canada, 
directly  opposite  is  the  Central  Vermont  office,  pre- 
sided over  by  A.  C.  Stonegrave,  any  time-table 
refpiired,  is  easily  obtainable  ;  also  adjoininjy  is  the 
office  of  the  Richelieu  and  Ontario  Navigation  Com- 
pany. 

All  railroads  issuing  summer  excursion  tickets 
through,  over  this  line,  allow  passengers,  if  they 
desire,  to  procure  at  Port  Kent  depot  a  ticket  which 
entitles  them  to  visit  Au  Sable  Chasm  and  to  re'  i 
to  Port  Kent  for  75  cents.  The  trip  is  made  b)  ...c 
Port  Kent,  Au  Sable  and  Keesville  Stage  Co.,  with 
the  best  of  equipments  over  a  splendid  plank  road, 
distance  three  miles. 

Leaving  Montreal  in  the  morning,  by  taking  the 
first  train  on  the  Delaware  &  Hudson  Canal  Railroad, 
if  you  wish  to  make  Lake  George,  Saratoga  or 
Albany  the  same  day,  your  ticket  may  read  Lake 
Champlain  Co.  steamers,  but  it  is  all  the  same — boat 
and  rail  belong  to  the  same  parties.  Should  you 
desire  to  take  Lake  Champlain,  leave  Montreal  in 
the  afternoon  and  go  to  Au  Sable  Chasm,  via  Port 
Kent,  remain  over  night  at  Lake  V^iew  House,  taking 
the  boat  at  8  a.  m.,  from  there  to  Fort  Ticonderoga, 
and  then  down  Lake  George,  or  proceed  on  tlie  train 
at  10:30.  By  getting  off  at  Port  Kent,  the  distance  to 
Lake  View  House  is  only  three  miles  by  stage  over  a 
first-class  plank  road  ;  there  is  a  movement  on  foot  to 
build  a  railroad  to  Keesville  which  if  completed  you 
can  take  to  the  Lake  View  House;  therefore,  it  may 
be  said,  if  you  desire  to  make  both  lakes  on  the  same 
day,  you  are  compelled  to  leave  Montreal  in  the  after- 
noon, and  go  to  Au  Sable  Chasm  via  Port  Kent,  and 


1. 


Ison 
ida, 

|jre- 
ible 
the 

|>ni- 

:ets 


»45 

remain  over  nic^ht  at  the  Lake  View  Hotel,  whirh 
will  be  found  to  be  an  excellent  house,  taking  Jie 
boat  in  the  morning.  If  tickets  read  by  the  Central 
Vermont  Railway,  you  go  to  Burlington,  where  you 
arrive  for  supper,  and  as  the  boat  does  not  leave 
there  until  nine  o'clock  in  the  morning,  you  have 
plenty  of  time  to  see  that  beautiful  city  before  the 
leaving  of  the  boat;  at  any  rate  you  won't  have  to 
rise  as  early  as  if  you  were  at  Plattsburg. 


•1^ 


MY  FIRST  VISIT  TO  AU  SABLE  CHASM. 

As  long  as  anything  shall  remain  green  in  my 
memory,  I  feel  confident  it  will  be  the  impression  of 
that  charming  view  and  grand  natural  spectacle,  Au 
Sable  Chasm. 

Arising  early  in  the  morning,  if  not  with  the  lark, 
a  very  good  second  in  the  race,  I  was  invited  by  the 
manager  of  the  Lake  View  House  to  visit  the  cliasm. 
Accepting  the  same,  we  proceeded  through  the  gate 
and  down  the  steps  which  I  did  not  stop  to  count; 
but  the  number  was  sufficient  for  a  man  of  my  weight, 
and  as  large  bodies  move  slowly,  I  was  behind  the 
rest  of  our  gay,  hilarious  party,  because  I  remained 
to  drink  in  the  beauties  my  eyes  were  feasting  upon. 
Reaching  the  end  of  the  chasm,  where  we  take  the 
boat  for  the  rapids,  I  did  not  have  confidence  to  pro- 
ceed the  rest  of  the  journey  with  my  companions  (as 
1  felt  I  was  too  large  a  crowd  for  the  boat),  but,  return- 
ing as  I  came,  which  very  few  people  do,  I  was  more 
impressed  by  the  grandeur  of  the  scenery— more  than 
going  down.  Returning  to  the  hotel  some  hours  after 
my  party,  I  had  stories  to  tell  that  caused  many  of 
them  to  return  and  make  the  trip  that  I  had.     If  there 


I' 


#1 


ri 


146 


M 


i 


il 


is  any  view  on  earth  that  will  please  you,  it  is  the 
one  obtained  from  any  point  at  the  Lake  View  House, 
Au  Sable  Chas.:.,  looking  at  Lake  Champlain  and  the 
Green  Mountains  of  Vermont  on  one  side,  and  the 
Chasm  or  Adirc.dacks  on  the  other. 

Before  the  completion  of  the  railroad,  boats  left 
Rouse's  Point,  on  Lake  Champlain,  and  a  train  left 
Montreal  to  connect  ;  but  as  the  route  on  Lake 
Champlain  has  been  discontinued  from  Rouse's  Point 
to  Plattsburg,  really  the  most  picturesque  part  of  the 
trip  down  Lake  Champlain  being  cut  off,  most  of  the 
tourists  take  the  rail  in  the  morning  from  Montreal 
and  can  pass  through  Lake  Champlain  by  rail.  The 
rail  passing  close  along  the  lake  shore,  one  gets  a 
very  nice  view,  better,  as  I  have  often  expressed  it, 
than  if  the  parties  were  on  the  boat,  as  they  cannot 
see  both  shores  on  a  boat  at  once,  unless  the  tourist's 
eyes  were  cut  out  on  a  bias  or  cross,  thus  enabling 
them  to  see  both  sides  at  once.  The  rail  is  preferable 
and  saves  time.  As  it  is  immaterial  to  me  how  you 
reach  Ticonderoga,  it  is  presumed  you  get  there. 
Lake  George  Junction  is  where  you  change  cars  and 
connect  for  Baldwin,  which  is  a  ride  of  about  fifteen 
minutes.  You  are  now  supposed  to  have  arrived  on 
board  the  company's  steamers  Horicon  or  Ticonderoga^ 
and  are  sailing  up  Lake  George.  Now,  if  tiie  reader 
expects  me  to  describe  Lake  St.  George,  I  shall  simply 
say  No  !  with  a  large  N.  It  is  too  much  ,  its  praises 
have  been  written  and  sung  for  the  past  half  co-:tury 
by  thousands.  I  shall  with  pleasure  and  relief  to 
myself,  ask  the  loan  of  your  scissors.  Thanks;  now 
we  c^n  comply  with  your  wishes  :  We  have  started  on 
our  trip  through  this  magical  lake.  It  is  difficult  to 
describe  the  quiet  delight  one  feels  as  he  gazes  on 


ij 


147 


the  expanse  of  the  tranquil  azure  spread  before  him 
like  a  part  of  the  sky  inhiid  on  the  emerald  bosom  of 
the  earth.  Peace  is  in  the  very  air  which  lazily 
slumbers  over  the  water,  w  lile  the  monotone  of  the 
silvery  ripples  rolling  on  the  yellow  sands,  and  the 
musical  moan  of  the  breeze  in  the  cone-scented  pines, 
seem  to  carry  the  soul  back  to  other  days.  Lake 
George  is,  indeed,  like  a  work  of  art  of  the  highest 
order,  for  it  has  the  quality  of  improving,  the  more 
one  studies  its  attractions,  and  the  ever-harmonious 
flow  of  lines  constantly  suggests  a  composition  of 
consummate  genius  in  which  every  effect  has  been 
combined  to  produce  a  certain  ideal. 

Now,  dear  reader,  I  have  a  favor  to  ask  of  you  ; 
read  this  little  book  as  far  as  Saratoga  description 
commences  ;  then  lay  it  aside,  and  feast  the  eyes  on 
Lake  George  for  the  next  two  hours,  and,  if  you  can 
describe  its  beauties,  do  so  to  the  best  of  your  ability, 
and  forward  to  me,  21  Chestnut  Park,  Rochester,  N. 
Y.,  and  it  shall  have  a  place  in  this  work,  and  you 
shall  have  the  credit  for  the  same  ; — the  task  was  too 
much  for  me. 


i'i^ 


^1 


CAMPING  OUT. 

The  lake  is  a  famous  camping  ground,  during  July 
and  August,  and  its  enjoyments,  with  bits  of  sound 
advice,  can  not  be  better  given  than  by  the  follov/ing, 
unless  you  purchase  one  of  Possons'  Guides  to  Lake 
George,  Lake  Champlain  and  the  Adirondacks — full 
of  information,  maps  and  illustrations,  published  by 
Chas.  H.  Possons,  of  Glen  Falls,  N.  Y.,  and  for  sale 
on  all  steamers  and  news  stands. 

"  The  lovely  islands  are  suddenly  astir  with  busy 
throngs.     Rocks  are  decked   with  blue  and  gray,  the 


148 


t    I 


tree-tops  blush  with  buntingfs;  shores  put  on  a  flannelly 
hue,  and  shadowy  points  blossom  out  in  duck  and 
dimity.  It  is  safe  to  say  that  in  the  course  of  the 
season  a  thousand  people  taste  the  pleasures  and 
overcome  the  difficulties  that  but  season  the  glorious 
dish  of  camp  life  at  Lake  George.  Among  the 
necessaries  are  a  light  axe,  long  handle  frying-pan, 
tin  pail  for  water  or  coffee,  tin  plate,  pint  cup,  knife 
and  fork,  and  fishing  tackle.  A  stove  top  laid  on  a 
fire-place  of  stones  and  mud,  and  supplied  with  one 
length  of  stove-pipe,  is  a  positive  luxury  to  the  cook. 
Spruce  boughs  for  a  bed,  with  two  or  three  good 
woolen  blankets  for  covering,  will  be  found  very 
comfortable  ;  a  small  bag  to  fill  with  leaves  or  moss 
for  a  pillow  pays  for  itself  in  one  night.  Flannel  or 
woolen  clothing,  with  roomy  boots  and  a  soft  felt 
hat,  is  ordinarily  the  safest  dress.  Ladies,  wear  what 
you  have  a  mind  to — you  will,  anyway — but  let  it  be 
flannel  next  to  you,  good  strong  shoes  under  foot, 
and  a  man's  felt  hat  overhead ;  take  the  man  along 
too — he  will  be  useful  to  take  the  fish  off  your  hook, 
run  errands,  etc. 

"Boats  and  provisions  may  be  obtained  at  almost 
any  of  the  hotels.  Bacon,  salt  pork,  bread  and  butter, 
Boston  crackers,  tea,  coffee,  sugar,  pepper  and  salt, 
with  a  tin  box  or  two  for  containing  the  same,  are 
among  the  things  needed.  Milk  can  be  obtained 
regularly  at  the  farm  houses,  and  berries  picked 
almost  anywhere.  Ice  is  a  luxury  which  may  be 
contracted  for  and  thrown  from  the  passing  steamers 
daily  ;  a  hole  in  the  ground  with  a  piece  of  bark  over 
it  forms  a  very  good  ice-box.  A  drinking  cup  of 
leather,  to  carry  in  the  pocket,  comes  handy  at  times. 
Broad-brimmed  straw  hats  are  a  nuisance.     A  shanty 


149 


|y 

Id 

e 

d 

[s 
le 


of  boughs  will  answer  in  absence  of  anything  better 
it   sounds  well   when   you   talk   about  '  roughing  it,' 
but  it  is  bad  in  practice.     A  tent  is  best  and  may  be 
made  very  comfortable  with  a  little  outlay  of  money 
and  labor." 

THE  ADIRONDACKS. 

The  great  wilderness  of  northeastern  New  York, 
the  limits  of  which  we  will  not  try  to  define,  is 
generally  known  as  the  North  Woods,  or  as  the  Adi- 
rondacks,  according  to  the  view  taken  of  its  surface. 
The  former  title  indicates  merely  a  wild,  densely 
wooded  region  ;  the  latter,  a  region  occupied  by  all 
the  varied  scenery  pertaining  to  a  most  remarkable 
lake  and  mountain  system.  This  wild  region  of  dense 
forest,  majestic  mountains,  magnificent  lakes  and 
beautiful  rivers,  lies  in  the  counties  of  Herkimer, 
Hamilton,  Lewis,  St.  Lawrence,  Clinton,  Franklin  and 
Essex,  and  aggregates  over  3,500,000  acres,  a  tract  of 
land  of  an  area  of  nearly  100  square  miles.  This 
region  is  the  only  primitive  hunting  and  fishing 
grounds  left  in  New  York  State,  and  offering,  as  it 
does,  rare  health-restoring  qualities,  combined  with 
excellent  deer  hunting,  and  the  best  of  brook  and 
lake  trout  fishing  accessible,  is  yearly  more  than 
doubling  its  number  of  visitors — in  fact,  the  limit  is 
only  measured  by  hotel  capacity.  It  is  not  our  pur- 
pose, nor  would  it  be  possible  in  so  small  a  work  as 
this,  to  go  into  details  as  to  the  wilderness,  but  guide- 
books are  easily  obtained,  and  The  Delaware  & 
Hudson  R.  R.  issues  a  large  amount  of  information 
upon  the  subject,  which  is  easily  obtainable  from 
their  General  Passenger  Agent,  J.  W.  Burdick, 
Albany,  N.  Y. 


•Mt 


n 


.'11'  I 


•5^ 


MY   TRIP   OVER    THE    GRAVITY   RAIL- 
ROAD. 

In  1876,  tlie  centennial  year,  this  country  was  visited 
by  scores,  yes  hundreds,  of  foreign  visitors  who  came 
to  our  shores  in  quest  of  sights.  Up  to  this  time  the 
company  owning  and  working  the  Gravity  railroad 
persistently  refused  any  one  transportation  over  it. 
No  matter  how  much  they  pleaded  or  petitioned  there 
was  not  anything  they  could  do  to  move  the  heart  of 
that  corporation.  At  last  light  came  through  the 
darkness  ;  a  female  lawyer  conceived  the  idea  that  way 
back  in  1813,  when  the  road  was  first  built,  the  right 
of  way  was  given  as  a  public  highway,  and  so  she  de- 
manded transportion  or  they  must  abide  the  conse- 
quences. 

I  have  been  a  great  traveler  in  my  day  and  have  seen 
almost  everything  on  this  continent  that  is  worth  see- 
ing. I  was  annoyed  more  by  people  asking  questions 
about  the  Gravity  railroad  than  as  to  any  other  spot 
in  the  country,  so  to  the  end  that  I  might  be  in  a  better 
position  to  talk  of  it,  1  concluded  to  make  the  trip  and 
see  its  beauties.  Knowing  that  misery  loves  com- 
pany, I  determined  to  take  my  daughter  along,  to  the 
end  that  she  could  have  the  misery  while  I  could  be  in 
good  company. 

We  left  Albany,  N.  Y.,  on  Wednesday  morning 
at  8:30  o'clock,  over  the  Delaware  and  Hudson 
Canal  Company's  railroad.  Station  after  station 
was  passed  ;  our  eyes  feasting  upon  the  beauties 
of  the  mountain,  valley,  river,  hillside  and  plain, 
but  we  had  left  that  most  beautiful  of  all  pictures,  Lake 
George,  so  could   not   drink  in   the   ever  changing 


151 


scenes  as  we  otherwise  wou'i.  We  were  almost  in 
dreamland  when  a  party  of  hop  pickers  boarded  tjie 
train  ;  a  happier,  jollier,  good  natured  crowd  ot 
country  girls  and  boys  we  never  saw  before.  The 
usual  violin,  guitar,  bones  and  mouth  organ  accom- 
panied them,  and  while  they  were  with  us,  which  was 
for  over  an  hour,  they  kept  up  a  continual  revelry. 

In  the  beautiful  agricultural  districts  through  which 
we  passed,  the  corn  fields  were  almost  a  bright  yellow 
with  the  thousands  of  pumpkins  that  almost  hid  the 
earth  from  view.  Our  thoughts  weat  back  to  the 
days  when  we  were  boys  and  made  hideous  jack  lan- 
terns to  frighten  nervous  females  and  timid  boys. 
One  passenger  remarked  to  another,  "Is  the  pumpkin 
a  berry  or  a  fruit  ?''  After  a  little  discussion  it  was 
left  to  me,  and  I  decided  thai  it  made  beiiv  good  pie 
to  say  the  least. 

Can't  say  what  struck  the  train;  the  effects  of  the 
joke,  probably,  was  the  cause  of  the  train  coming  to 
a  standstill  and  suddenly  the  brakeman  called  out 
"  Nineveh  Junction,  change  cars,"  which  we  did,  and 
were  soon  on  our  way  to  Carbondale,  running  under 
that  greatest  of  stone  viaducts,  over  which  passes  the 
Erie  Railroad,  and  came  to  numerous  coal  pits,  coal 
shafts  and  coal  towns,  and  soon  that  long-looked-for 
announcement  by  the  trainman  breaks  upon  our  ear- 
drum, "Carbondale,  change  for  the  Gravity  Rail- 
road." This  we  did  very  quickly,  and  found  we  were 
noticed  by  a  fine  looking  old  gentleman  we  discovered 
to  be  the  Superintendent,  Mr.  R.  Manville.  After 
looking  us  over  for  size,  style  and  general  appear- 
ance, he  took  us  for  some  one  of  note,  which  we  were, 
and  ordered  out  an  elegant  new  coach  for  our  sole 
use,  as  there  was  not  room  in  the  regular.     This  was 


iU' 


m 


,  t 


152 


I 


11 


i ! 


:l  f 


-    i 
I 


one  occasion  in  my  life  that  my  weight  and  size 
helped  me  tv)  gain  a  prominent  position. 

"All  aboard,"  was  the  next  sound  I  heard  and 
looked  around  to  see  if  I  was  all  there,  and  we 
started.  Our  coach  being  in  front,  we  acted  as 
engine,  and  soon  rounded  at  the  first  incline.  Up  to 
this  time  no  propelling  power  was  used,  simply  our 
weight  and  the  gravity  of  the  roadbed.  Now  we 
were  attached  to  a  cable  and  taken  at  the  rate  of 
ten  to  fifteen  miles  per  hour  up  an  incline;  then  a 
little  way  of  our  own  gravity,  we  came  to  another 
incline,  and  so  on  to  incline  after  incline,  until  we 
arrived  at  Far  View,  the  top  of  a  mountain  2,350  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.  From  that  point  we  struck 
at  what  is  called  the  ten  mile  level,  but  it  has  forty- 
four  feet  fall  to  the  mile.  And  here  we  glide  without 
any  apparent  power  thirty  or  forty  miles  per  hour  ; 
without  the  annoyance  of  the  engine,  with  its  whistle, 
dust,  smoke  and  cinders,  and  so  elated  with  our  ride 
that  we  deem  heaven  but  a  little  way  off ;  this  huge 
body  of  mine  was  for  a  moment  ethereal,  imagining 
that  I  had  been  flying  instead  of  the  train. 

Looking  a  little  ahead  I  saw  the  village  of  Hones- 
dale  in  the  distance  and  a  most  magnificent  hotel 
located  on  the  top  of  a  mountain  or  bluff  in  the  rear 
of  the  village,  and  almost  as  quick  as  thought  we 
arrived.  Alighting  from  the  car  we  were  met  by  Mr. 
H.  J.  Conger,  who  took  us  in  charge  and  escorted  us 
to  the  Allen  House.  After  a  little  preparation  supper 
was  announced,  and  if  ever  that  word  was  appreciated 
it  was  on  that  occasion  by  myself  as  well  as  my 
daughter.  After  doing  ample  justice  to  that  very 
memorable  meal,  I  was  invited  by  Mr.  Conger,  and  a 
lady  guest  at  the  hotel  invited  my  daughter,  to  take  a 


i  n 


i 


153 

walk,  as  they  desired  to  show  us  the  village.  It  was 
on  a  Wednesday  evening  and  all  the  f^ifferent  churches 
were  sending  forth  their  peal  of  the  bell  for  the 
asseipbling  together  of  the  different  congregatipns. 
Mr.  Conger  and  myself  were  in  deep  conversation  and 
did  not  notice  we  were  holding  the  crowd  behind  us 
at  bay  by  our  slow  martial  tread.  Presently  I  heard 
a  remark  coming  from  a  lady  directly  behind  us  ^o 
this  effect  :  "Who  is  that  large,  fleshy  gentleman 
with  Mr.  Conger?"  "I  don't  know,  he  must  be  a 
stranger  in  town."  "Oh,  lam  sorry,  I  wish  he  lived 
here."  "  Why  ?  "  "  If  he  did  I  would  i<  rm  his 
acquaintance  very  quickly  and  invite  him  up  to  the 
house  every  evening  six  times  a  week."  "What  for?" 
"So  he  could  sit  down  on  our  bible  and  press  our 
autumn  leaves." 

At  this  juncture  we  smiled  and  turned  the  corner, 
and  proceeded  up  as  far  as  the  river  bridge,  then 
joining  the  ladies  we  passed  through  the  principal 
business  streets  and  returned  to  the  hotel,  after  an 
hour  and  a  half's  walk.  We  parted  with  Mr.  Conger, 
after  spending  a  very  pleasant  hour  in  the  parlor  of 
the  hotel  with  some  of  the  guests,  when  our  watch 
denoted  the  hour  of  bedtime  had  arrived.  We  retired 
*  *  *  awoke,  if  not  with  the  lark,  a  very  good 
second,  and  about  seven  o'clock  went  to  the  depot  to 
take  the  car,  where  we  were  introduced  to  Mr.  William 
Muir,  the  superintendent  of  the  Delaware  &  Hudson 
Canal  Company  at  this  point,,  who  very  kindly 
showed  us  the  manner  in  which  the  cars  were  loaded 
with  coal  ;  also  the  difterent  screens  used  in  selecting 
the  different  sizes  of  coal  and  the  manner  in  which 
that  commodity  is  placed  on  canal  boats.  We  also 
saw  the  working  of  the  steam  shovel  in  loading  from 
huge  mountains  of  coal. 


f  i 


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1 1 


154 

At  the  time  appointed  we  took  our  special  car  and 
proceeded    to    return    to    Carbondale.     The  distance 
from    Carbondale   to    flonesdale    is    16    miles,    from 
Honesdale  to  Carbondale  is  20  miles.     Entering  our 
car  we  arrive  at  the   first   incline,  and   were   soon  at 
that  part  of  the  road  called  Horseshoe   Bend.     This 
gorge  was  formerly  spanned  by  a  bridge  175  feet  high. 
By  gravity  we  pass  around  a  curve.     The  sight  of  the 
autumn    foliage   is   grand,    and   the    beautiful    little 
village  of  Seelyville  in   the  distance.     We  arrive  at 
incline   number  fourteen;  there  are  twenty-eight  of 
these  inclines  in  ail.     The  sight  of  the  track  ^^elow, 
one  hundred  cars  loaded   with  coal   taking  their  ser- 
pentine windings  around  the  various  curves,  run  by 
an  invisible  power,   is  a  sight  once  seen,  never  for- 
gotten.    Prompton  Pass  is  the  next  place  of  note  and 
we  arrive  at  incline  number  sixteen,  the  engineer  of 
which  has  made  a  beautiful  flowergarden  amid  rocks 
and  coal  which  is  very   delightful  to  the  eye.     The 
large  pond  and  station  next  in  order  is  the  feeder  of 
the  Delaware  and  Hudson  canal.    Waymart  is  the  next 
station  where  trains  are  loaded   fifty  cars  each  ;  this 
place  is  1,450  feet  above  tide  water.     Next  is  incline 
number  nineteen,  over  a  half  a  mile  in  length,  on  the 
top  of  which  is  Far  View,  where  we  were  met  by  Mr. 
R.  Manville  who  invited  us  to  take  a  ride  in  his  demo- 
crat wagon  with  two  spirited  horses  attached.     Had 
the  wagon  been  any  smaller  or  the  horses  any  less 
we  would  not  have  had  the  pleasure  of  taking  in  Far 
View.     After  they  had  procured  a  derrick  and  some 
steps  I  was  gently  raised  into  the  seat  in  the  vehicle 
and  we  proceeded  on  our  tour  of  inspection.     Every- 
thing that  can  be  done,  until  the  ingenuity  of  man  is 
taxed  to  its  utmost  capacity  for  the  pleasure  and  ac- 


IS5 


comodation  of  the  visitors  has  been  done  by  the 
company.  Hundreds  of  seats,  chairs  and  benches  are 
arranged  everywhere. 

Observatories,  where  you  can  ascend  150  feet  to 
enhance  your  view  ;  grounds  for  base  ball,  croquet, 
lawn  tennis  ;  in  fact,  everything  to  make  it  pleasant 
for  picnic  excursions  or  tourist  travel,  has  been  done. 
We  proceeded  to  the  highest  observatory,  which  we 
found  was  a  little  too  high  for  our  observation  on 
account  of  a  dense  fog,  so  that  we  had  to  feast  our 
eyes  from  below.  The  observatory  is  twenty-six 
hundred  feet  above  .e  level  of  the  sea,  and  from  its 
summit  may  be  seen  nineteen  small  lakes  or  bodies 
of  water,  springs  as  it  were,  upon  the  top  of  the 
mountain.  From  one  the  company  use  twenty-six 
thousand  gallons  of  water  daily.  A  magnificent  view 
of  the  Adirondacks  of  New  York,  the  White  Moun- 
tains of  New  Hampshire  and  Green  Mountains  of 
Vermont,  can  be  had  on  a  clear  day.  There  is  some 
talk  of  building  a  hotel  here  for  tourists,  of  which, 
when  completed,  I  want  to  be  one  of  the  first  guests. 
The  time  having  arrived  to  depart,  we  were  invited  to 
inspect  the  huge  engine,  boilers  and  fan  wheel,  used 
to  convey  cars  up  and  down  the  incline,  and  we 
should  advise  visitors  to  take  in  the  Engineers'  Art 
Gallery,  which  is  really  a  curiosity.  Our  car  being 
attached  to  the  regular  train  we  proceeded  on  our 
way  to  Carbondale,  which  is  12  miles.  Again  on  our 
way  three  miles  and  a  half  we  are  at  the  Shepherd's 
Crook.  The  engineer,  conductor  and  brakeman  are 
in  one  person,  occupying  the  front  platform.  He  put 
on  the  brake  and  our  car  stood  still  and  we  had  the 
pleasure  of  seeing  the  regular  train  ahead  pass 
around  the  Shepherd's  Crook.     After  witnessing  that 


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'56 

novel  siglit  Mr.  Manville  told  his  brakeman  to  catch 
the  regular  train,  which  seemed  to  us  about  three 
miles  ahead.  All  he  had  to  do  was  simply  let  up  on 
his  brake,  and  it  seems  as  if  we  were  there,  for  while 
I  was  taking  in  the  scenes  which  greeted  my  eye  we 
had  joined  the  regular  train,  and  I  asked  him  how 
long  before  we  would  catch  up  to  it,  and  I  was  in- 
formed we  were  already  coupled  on  ;  "  for,"  said  he, 
"the  cows  for  the  whole  village  of  Carbondale  pasture 
upon  this  hill  side,  and  we  have  them  educated  for 
all  the  regular  trains  but  not  for  specials,  and  for 
that  reason  I  didn't  care  to  run  over  any  of  the  cattle 
and  be  accessory  after  the  fact  of  their  demise,  so  we 
coupled  on  to  save  me  trouble  and  expense."  Look- 
ing out  I  saw  a  woman  in  charge  of  about  eight  or 
ten  cows,  and  truthfully,  she  was  the  homeb'e 
person  I  ever  saw.  I  asked  him  if  they  had  fei 
herderesses  here,  and  he  remarked  "yes."  I  t"**". 
said  they  must  use  that  one's  face  to  wean  the 
calves  by. 

"Carbondale,  change  cars." 

After  bidding  everybody  good-bye  we  took  our 
seat  in  the  D.  &  H.  company's  regular  train  for 
Albany,  arriving  at  five  o'clock  and  thirty  minutes  in 
the  afternoon. 

LAKE  GEORGE. 

Every  American,  or  tourist,  should  see  it  at  least 
once.  It  is  the  largest  of  the  Adirondack  chain,  346 
feet  above  the  sea,  and  247,  above  Champlain,  thirty- 
five  miles  long  and  from  two  to  four  in  width,  and 
fed  from  mountain  brooks  and  springs  coming  up 
from  the  bottom,  making  it  transparent.  It  is  beau- 
tifully dotted  with  over  200  islands,  and  surrounded 


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jn  Creeri   Island  connected  by  brldf^e  to  mainland,  in 
ed    "  The    Sa«moro,"  the    mo8t    doli^htful    placo  on 
1.    Make  a  stay  over,  If  only  for  a  day.    I  know  you  will 
f^lis'ited. 


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157 

by  high  mountains,  some  rising  2,000  feet  above  the 
water,  clothed  with  foliage  and  dotted  with  villas  and 
picturesque  camps  ;  one  feels  like  leaving  the  boat 
and  remaining  in  this  bower  of  enchantment.  The 
steamers  touch  at  all  points  of  note,  and  arrive  at  the 
Sagamore  Hotel,  where  you  can,  if  you  desire,  remain 
over. 


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THE  SAGAMORE 

stands  among  the  trees  at  the  south  end  of  the  Green 
Island,  40  feet  above  the  level  of  the  lake,  command- 
ing from  its  upper  windows  the  grand  scenery  of  the 
Narrows  on  the  east,  the  broad  lake  and  baysattlie 
south  and  west,  and  the  mountains  on  every  side. 

The  buildings  comprising  the  Sagamore  are  of 
uncertain  number,  of  varying  I'.v^els,  and  picturesque 
in  their  grouping.  The  style  is  that  popularly  sup- 
posed to  belong  to  the  sixteenth  century, — rising, 
one  back  of  another,  with  short  flights  of  steps 
between,  connected  by  open  corridors  with  charming 
outlooks  ;  its  varied  porticos,  balconies  and  gables 
admirably  displayed  in  colors  that  harmonize  richly 
with  their  native  surroundings. 

Its  interior  finish  is  plain,  but  rich  and  substantial, 
showing  massive  beams,  fireplaces  of  artistic  designs 
in  terracotta,  tinted  walli3  and  joiner  work  in  native 
woods. 

The  furnishing  is  all  that  can  be  desired  ;  chairs 
and  sofas,  multiform  and  inviting,  of  different  woods, 
polished,  and  of  willow-vvare;  the  upholstery  bright 
and  cheerful  ;  the  beds  of  the  best  kind  procurable  ; 
in  short,  no  effort  has  been  spared,  nor  cost  con- 
sidered, in  making  this  the  ideal  hotel. 


ja 


58 


The  main  hall  and  office,  and  the  principal  parlor 
and  reading  and  smoking  rooms  are  on  the  main 
lloor,  hjuking  out  upon  a  semi-circular  lawn,  with 
Hower-b(irdered  walks,  leading  down  to  the  steam- 
boat landing,  and  revealing  between  its  stately  trees 
delightful  vistas  of  lake  and  islands  beyond. 

In  the  office  are  electric  bells,  with  a  system  of 
wires  running  to  the  various  rooms,  placing  them  in 
immediate  communication  with  base  of  supplies. 

Telegraphic  connection  is  made  with  the  Western 
Union  system  at  Caldwell  by  special  wire  in  the 
office. 

The  news  and  notion  stand  supplies  daily  papers, 
periodicals,  guides,  maps,  photographs,  fine  candies 
and  fancy  goods. 

An  elevator  is  he'"e  for  the  service  of  such  as  may 
prefer  it  to  the  short  flights  of  steps  by  which  the 
upper  floors  are  reached. 

The  Edison  Incandescent  Light  is  used  throughout 
the  entire  establishment. 

Spring  water  is  brought  from  the  mountains  two 
miles  away  and  500  feet  above  the  lake,  and  carried 
to  every  floor,  where  hose  and  pipe  attachment 
affords  the  best  of  protection  against  possible  danger 
from  fire. 

The  sleeping  rooms  are  spacious — many  of  them 
€n  suite,  with  private  balconies  and  outside  as  well  as 
hall  entrances. 

The  sanitary  conditions  are  perfect,  made  so  by  the 
employment  of  the  most  approved  methods  of  drnin- 
age,  for  the  applicatior.  of  whicli  the  location  is 
admirably  adapted. 

Baths,  hot  and  cold,  may  be  had  at  the  hotel  and 
bath-houses  outside ;  while  those  who  like  open  air 


f 


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arlor 
main 
with 
eam- 
trees 


159 

and  water  for  the  sport,  will  find  retired  places  and 
sandy  beach  near  by. 

Amusements :  billiards  and  bowling  within,  and 
croquet,  tennis,  polo  and  archery  without. 

Riding  and  driving  are  provided  for  in  the  exten- 
sive stables  on  the  island,  and  accommodations  for 
those  who  mav  bring  their  own  equipage.  The 
drives  are  man)  and  delightful. 

Fishing,  rowing,  sailing  or  "steaming"  are  all 
made  attractive  by  respectful  attendants,  and  a  Heel 
of  boats  ranging  from  the  tiny  skiff  to  the  comfort- 
able steam  yacht. 

A  large  hall  for  music  and  social  gatlierings  has 
been  built,  connected  with  the  main  building  at  its 
highest  point.  Two  new  cottages  also,  and  twenty- 
six  new  and  desirable  sleeping  rooms  have  been 
added. 

The  line  steamers  land  on  every  regular  trip  through 
the  lake,  connecting  with  the  trains  at  each  end,  and 
run  from  Caldwell  ^o  the  Sagamore  dock  on  the 
arrival  of  the  evening  train  from  the  south. 

The  proprietor,  Mr.  M.  O.  Brown  long  and  popu- 
larly known  as  a  hotel  man  on  the  lake,  will  spare  no 
pains  to  maWe  your  sojourn  attractive  in  all  respects. 

The  cuisine  is  perfect.  The  Chef  and  assistants 
are  from  the  leading  New  York  hotels.  The  head 
waiter,  with  his  excellent  and  full  crops  of  carefully 
trained  and  experienced  waiters,  the  best  that  could 
be  obtained. 

As  I  have  cheertully  recommended  tourists  for  the 
last  six  years  to  make  a  short  stay  at  least  at  this 
delightful  resort,  the  Sagamore,  (it  is  as  near  heaven 
as  many  mortals  will  reach,)  get  within  its  portals  if 
but  for  a  short  time,  that  you  may  realize  its  beauties, 


I! 

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then  yoii  can  thank  me  for  the  suggestion,  as  many 
others  have,  and  I  will  be  well  repaid.  Connections 
are,  however,  arranged  for,  and  you  can,  if  you  wish, 
leave  immediately  for  Caldwell. 

FACILITIES  FOR  LAKE  TRAVEL. 

The  Champlain  Transportation  Company  run  a 
regular  line  of  steamboats  the  entire  length  of  the 
lake,  making  three  round  trips  daily  (except  Sunday), 
and  stopping  at  all  way  landings.  The  Horicon  of 
this  line,  making  the  regular  connections  with  the 
railroad,  is  a  fine  side-wheel  steamer  203  feet  long 
and  52  feet  wide  over  all,  and  is  643  tons  burden,  and 
will  accommodate  comfortably  1,000  people.  I  can 
truthfully  say  that  upon  no  inland  lake  in  the  world 
is  the  passenger  service  so  promptly  and  regularly 
done,  and  passengers  so  elegantly  cared  for  as  upon 
Lake  George. 

Caldwell  is  the  railroad  terminus,  and  is  the  largest 
town  on  the  lake.  It  is  situated  at  the  extreme 
southern  end,  or  head  of  the  lake  (the  waters  flowing 
north  and  emptying  into  Lake  Champlain,  imme- 
diately at  the  ruins  of  old  Fort  Ticonderoga. )  At 
Caldwell  is  located  the  handsome  dock  and  depot 
building  of  the  railroad  company,  whose  trains  run 
down  the  dock  immediately  to  the  steamers — one  of 
which  leaves  upon  the  arrival  of  each  train,  for  all 
points  down  the  lake.  The  railroad  was  extended  to 
this  point  in  1883,  thus  saving  at  least  one  hour  of 
time,  and  better  facilities  for  the  accommodation  of 
tourists  and  pleasure  travel.  The  Adirondack  R.  R. 
has  been  purchased  by  the  D.  &  H.  Co.,  and  hereafter 
will  be  known  as  the  Adirondack  Division  of  the  I). 
&  H.  system. 


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SARATOGA  SPRINGS, 

the  focus  to  which  the  fashionable  world  (jf  the 
United  States,  indeed,  of  Europe,  is  annually  drawn. 
Here  are  intellectual  men,  stylish  men,  the  beaux  of 
society,  and  the  man  of  the  world;  ladies  of  social 
rank,  the  managing  mother,  the  marriageable  daugh- 
ters, the  fluttering  bee  of  fashion,  and  the  more  gentle 
bird  of  beauty,  are  found  amidst  the  throng,  for 
Saratoga  is  cosmopolitan.  As  a  gentleman  said  to 
me  one  day,  "I  can  meet  more  of  my  friends  in  one 
hour  during  the  season  at  Saratoga  than  I  could  at 
home  in  a  week."  The  ladies  here  have  ample  oppor- 
tunities to  display  their  peculiar  charms  and  graces. 
The  sporting  gentleman  can  also  find  an  opportunity 
to  gratify  his  peculiar  tastes;  the  philosopher  may 
study  human  nature  ;  the  invalid  find  perfect  health; 
in  fact  every  one  at  Saratoga  finds  that  peculiar 
pleasure  they  most  desire.  Of  all  the  elegant  hotels 
which  here  abound  we  have  not  space  to  mention.  I 
will,  therefore,  speak  of  those  I  know,  the  United 
States,  Clarendon  Hotel  and  Adelphi,  confident  they 
can  please  any  one  paying  them  a  visit.  The  Claren- 
don Hotel  has  this  year  been  transformed  in  more 
ways  than  one.  I  will  only  say  that  it  will  be  under 
the  management  of  Averill  &  Gregory,  and  to  those 
who  patronize  hotels,  these  names  speak  volumes. 
Next  comes  the  Adelphi  Hotel — this  new,  comfortable 
and  petite  hotel  is  located  on  Broadway,  contains 
over  une  hundred  rooms,  is  convenient  to  the  springs, 
etc.,  etc.  Its  piazza  is  elevated  one  story  above  the 
street  and  commands  a  splendid  view  up  and  down 
Broadway,   as  well   as  Phila   street,    opposite.     The 


=il 


l62 

proprietor,  A.  E.  Wilder,  is  too  well  known  to  the 
traveling  community  to  need  one  word  from  ms,  and 
the  gentlemen  connected  with  the  office,  Mr.  John  T. 
McCaffrey,  of  the  Gilsey  House,  New  York,  and  Mr. 
W.  S.  Bigelow,  of  Boston,  Mass.,  and  Troy  and 
Mansion  House,  Troy,  N.  Y.,  and  Mr.  Patrick  N. 
()iiinlan,  in  charge  of  the  dining  room  and  other 
departments  of  tlie  house,  are  too  well  qualified  to 
need  commendation.  It  is  ''my  home"  when  in 
Saratoga  ;  that  is  all  I  have  to  say  against  it.  Under 
the  Adelphi  Hotel  is  the  oflice  of  the  Saratoga  Kis- 
sengen  Company.  The  Kissengen  is  "Tiie  King"  of 
table  waters.  Drop  in  and  examine  its  qualities;  I 
feel  confident  you  will  be  pleased.  It  is  the  universal 
opinion  of  tourists  that  no  watering  place  on  the 
continent,  of  like  size,  can  compare  with  the  un- 
wearying cliarms  of  Saratt)ga.  The  hotel  arrivals 
some  days  are  upwards  of  one  thousand.  One  might 
become  almost  tired  of  the  world  and  vote  every 
other  place  a  bore,  but  Saratoga  scenery,  Saratoga 
atmosphere  and  Saratoga  life  would  still  charm  by 
its  ever  pleasing  peculiarities. 


\i 


THE   UNITED   STATES    HOTEL,   SARA- 
TOGA   SPRINGS. 

That  magnificent  Saratoga  Palace,  the  United 
States  Hotel,  will  open  the  present  season  on  June 
19th,  and  entertain  many  of  the  world's  most  dis- 
tinguished people  until  October  1st  next.  Messrs. 
Tompkins,  Gage  &  Perry,  the  proprietors,  form  a  trio 
whose  reputation  as  hotel  men  is  not  excelled  any- 
where. During  the  season  each  gives  his  personal 
attention   to  a  department   of  the  hotel,  even   to  the 


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163 

minutest  detail,  and  the  result  is,  that  their  c(jncert  of 
action  has  won  for  them  fame  and  fortune.  Work- 
men are  employed  throughout  the  year.  Every 
winter  he  plumbing,  furniture,  in  fact  everything  in 
the  interior  of  the  hotel,  is  thoroughly  examined  by 
the  corps  of  competent  men  who  repair  and  improve 
where  necessary,  and  each  spring  the  exterior  of  the 
building,  and  park,  walks,  fountains,  etc.,  receive  the 
same  careful  attention.  Just  now  the  outside  of  the 
hotel  is  being  repainted.  "  Apropos  "  of  this,  a  visitor 
said  to  me  as  we  watched  the  painters  industriously 
applying  the  paint,  "  Why,  it  seems  almost  a  waste  of 
money  to  paint  that  hotel  this  year,  as  it  scarcely 
seems  necessary ;"  and  then  he  added,  "'  Everything 
must  be  the  pink  of  neatness  and  perfection  about 
that  hotel."  He  was  right,  and  struck  the  key  note 
of  the  policy  adopted  by  those  successful  hotel  pro- 
prietors. One  of  the  most  notable  features  of  this 
hotel  is  the  service.  Even  the  hypercritical  guest 
cannot  find  a  loophole  in  this  department  through 
which  to  make  a  complaint.  Each  succeeding  season, 
with  but  few  exceptions,  occasioned,  perhaps,  by 
sickness  or  death,  the  same  competent  staff  returns 
to  take  up  their  old  duties.  I  met  Mr.  Hiram  Tomp- 
kins and  Dr.  Perry,  who  had  just  Tturned  from  New 
York,  and  they  said,  ''  The  prospects  of  the  season  are 
excellent.  We  have  already  rented  over  two-thirds 
of  our  cottages  for  the  summer,  which  to  this  date  is 
without  parajlel  in  the  past  ;  of  all  the  departments 
of  the  hotel  the  same  can  be  said.  Yes !  Stub's 
Orchestra  will  return,  and  about  all  of  the  old  help. 
The  minute  detail  for  the  opening  is  complete  and 
we  will  be  all  ready  on  the  19th  of  June  for  the  Stove 
Makers'  Convention."     But  little  if  anything  can  be 


11 


(  I 


1 


164 


li« 


11 


'1 


k 


said  here  to  add  luster  to  this  world-famed  hotel. 
Make  it  your  home  while  in  Saratoga  and  you  will 
have  the  satisfaction  and  consolation  that  no  other 
hotel  can  give. 

Mount  McGregor,  the  place  selected  above  all 
others  for  its  pure  air,  etc.,  etc.,  as  a  residence  for  our 
hero,  Gen.  U.  S.  Grant,  who  arrived  at  Saratoga  on 
Jiine  i6th,  1885  (during  my  stay  for  health),  so  I  had 
the  pleasure  of  seeing  the  old  veteran  while  he  was 
being  conveyed  to  the  Mount  McGregor  R.  R.,  which 
ascends  to  the  top  of  the  mountain,  where  visitors 
can  go  almost  every  hour  and  get  a  view  that  will 
well  repay  them.  I  left  Saratoga  on  the  morning  of 
the  19th  of  June,  and  was  informed  by  the  conductor 
of  the  Mt  McGregor  R.  R.  that  General  Grant  rested 
well  the  previous  night  and  slept  ten  hours.  As  all 
are  aware,  our  hero  departed  this  life  July  23d.  The 
cottage,  however,  is  kept  in  the  same  manner  as  the 
day  he  left  it,  and  will  become  an  historic  place  for 
visitors  who  come  to  Saratoga  from  all  parts  of  the 
world. 

It  is  a  fact,  and  worthy  of  note  here,  that  for  the 
past  four  years  there  has  nof  been  one  day  during  the 
months  of  July  and  August,  but  they  have  had  a 
heavy  frost  on  Mount  McGregor.  I  can  vouch  for 
the  truthfulness  of  this  item  because  I  know  him.  He 
is  the  conductor  of  the  train  on  the  Mt.  McGregor 
R.  R  ,  weighs  280  pounds,  and  his  name  is  Frost. 
(He  was  a  broad-gauge  conductor  on  a  narrow-gauge 
railroad). 

Saratoga  contains  10,000  inhabitants  and  in  the 
summer  season  every  private  house  is  turned  into  a 
boarding  house  of  one  or  the  other  class,  and  there- 


is 


H 


I 


)tel. 
Iwill 
^her 

all 
our 
on 
had 
was 
ich 
ors 
vill 
of 
;tor 
ted 
all 
The 
the 
for 
the 


165 

fore  boarding  houses  abound — no  space  to  mention 
all  of  them  here. 

Next  in  order  comes  the  Springs.     First  in  the  list 
is  the  old  and  ever  popular  Congress  Spring. 

CONGRESS  SPRING 

was  discovered  nearly  a  century  ago — 1792 — by  Hon. 
James  Taylor,  Member  of  Congress  from  New 
Uamphire.  The  park  connected  with  the  springs  is 
beautifully  laid  out  with  walks,  groves,  flowers,  trees, 
fiiid  ponds  in  which  speckled  trout  abound,  fountains, 
statuary,  live  deer,  etc. ;  where  night  and  day  the 
beauty  and  fashion  come  for  pleasure  and  to  imbibe 
the  water  of  Columbia  and  Congress  Springs,  which 
are  within  the  enclosure.  Those  who  are  posted 
come  here  and  drink.  During  the  past  year  the 
owners  have  re-tubed  Congress  Spring,  which  has 
proved  eminently  successful  and  now  have  the  water 
secure  at  a  depth  in  the  rock  which  precludes  the 
possibility  of  any  change  in  the  near  future.  The 
flow  is  ample  and  quality  genuine  ;  in  some  respects 
better  than  any  produced  by  the  spring  in  all  the 
hundred  years  of  its  past  history.  I  feel  that  they  can 
be  congratulated,  and  the  general  public  as  well,  on 
being  able  to  secure  Congress  Water  strengthened 
and  vitalized  in  those  qualities  which  have  so  long 
made  it  famous  as  a  cathartic  and  alterative  as  well 
as  a  sure  aid  to  the  digestive  organs. 

HATHORN  SPRINGS 

was  accidently  discovered  in  1869,  and  is  named 
after  the  Hon.  H.  H.  Hathorn,  its  owner.  It  is  a 
powerful  cathartic.     The  water  is  bottled  for  sale,  and 


h> 


u 


1 66 

is  probably  tlic  most  s(jlid  water  known,  and  it  is  said 
lo  contain  cie^lit  hundred  and  eighty-eight  grains 
solid  contents  lo  a  gallon. 


n 


EXCELSIOR  SPRINGS  AND  PARK, 

some  distance  from  town,  as  well  as  others  I  shall 
mention,  you  can  visit  when  you  take  a  drive.  Wash- 
ington Spring  is  on  the  grounds  of  one  of  the  hotels. 
Crystal  Pavilion,  High  Rock  Star,  Seltzer,  Red,  A 
Spring,  Geyser  or  spouting  :  ring,  Robert  Ellis,  The 
Vichy,  "The  Champion  Spouting  Spring,"  Hamilton, 
Putnam,  Flat  Rock,  Magnetic,  Sulphur,  Iron.Hiamon  1 
and  Patterson,  as  well  as  a  number  of  others  which 
have  been  discovered,  or  may  have  been  before  thi 
reaches  you.  If,  however,  you  are  not  satisfied  with 
the  springs  herein  mentioned,  all  I  ask  is  for  you  to 
visU  the  ones  mentioned,  as  I  did,  and  accept  the 
cordiol  invitation  of  each  to  take  a  glass,  and  it  you 
do  not  feel  the  next  day  that  there  are  springs 
enough  at  Saratoga,  your  feelings  will  be  difli-rent 
from  the  sensations  felt  bv  the  writer  of  this  article 
by  a  large  majority.  The  drives  in  this  vicinity  are 
numerous.  The  road  to  the  cemetery  (which,  I  am 
informed  by  one  of  the  oldest  inhabitants,  in  order  to 
start,  they  v/ere  obliged  to  borrow  a  corpse  from  an 
adjoining  county,  and  now  a  select  few  who  wish  to 
die  happy  come  and  are  decently  inte'"red),  has  been 
mproved,  so  that  the  drive  is  very  much  enhanced 
thereby.  By  far  the  prettiest  drive,  however,  is 
through  Broadway  from  Highland  Hill  for  two  miles 
to  Glen  Mitchell.  The  most  fashionable  drive  is  that 
to  the  Lake.  Immense  sums  of  money  have  been 
expended  to  widen  and   beautify  this  drive,  which  is 


ir>7 


IS  said 

RHlius 


I  shall 

Mote)  . 

<ed,  A 
s,  Tl,c 
niiltoii, 
amorifi 

whicii 
•re  thi 
d  with 
you  to 
pt  the 
it  you 
prings 
rferent 
irticJe 
ty  are 
,  I  .im 
ier  to 
»m  an 
ish  to 

been 
meed 
■r,    is      ^ 
niles 
that 
been 
'h  is 


100  feet  wide  and  sha(  id  with  trees,  and  is  sprinkled 
to  lay  the  dust.  Visitors  pass  up  one  side  and  down 
the  other.  Saratoga  Like  is  eight  miles  long  and 
two  and  one-half  wide.  On  an  eminence  on  the 
western  siiore  is  Moon's  Lake  Htjuse,  proverbial  for 
its  sumptuous  game  suppers.  Parties  fond  of  fishing 
or  boating  ran  enjoy  this  favorite  pastime  to  their 
'ull  extent.  Mr.  Moon  retired  some  three  years  ago, 
being  succeeded  by  Messrs.  Kinney  &  Foley.  Its 
fitness  for  aqur„''c  sports  has  been  verified  bv  the 
inanv  events  of  that  nature  which  have  taken  place 
on  its  placid  waters  since  187 1,  when  the  Ward 
Brothers  vanquished  two  English  crews  selected  from 
the  best  professional  oarsmen  of  Great  Britian. 
Kacing  is  the  turf  event  of  the  year,  and  cannot  be 
described  here,  only  mentioned. 

Life  at  Saratoga  is  two-f»)ld  —  Home  and  Hotel. 
The  former  is  enjoyed  by  its  citizens,  who  possess 
some  of  the  most  luxurio'js,  refined  and  elegant 
houses  to  be  found  in  the  Linited  States.  Hotel  or 
fashionable  life  is  ephemeral  in  its  nature,  and,  like 
the  beautiful  butterfly,  its  duration  is  short.  In  these 
few  brief  months,  wealth,  beauty,  fashion  and  other 
ingredients  not  so  desirable  intermingle,  and  amid  the 
gay  whirl  and  excitement  of  the  ball  room  at  night 
one  is  in  a  constant  ecstacy.  From  his  visit  to  the 
springs  in  the  morning,  promenades  or  drives  in  the 
afternoon,  the  music,  lawn  sociable  and  glittering 
fireworks  at  night,  one  wonders  what  time  there  is 
f(jr  even  nature's  balmy,  sweet  restorer — sleep.  An- 
ticipating your  stay  at  Saratoga  to  have  come  to  an 
end,  you  can  depart  for  Albany  any  morning  via 
Delaware  and  Hudson  Canal  Co.'s  R.R.,  or  West  Slujre 
R.  R.,  who  run  solid  trains  to  and  from   Saratoga  to 


\ 


11 


^ 


1 68 


1' 


I) 


4 


New  York,  and  New  Vork  to  Saratop^a,  Pullman 
liulTclt  C'ars.  Some  havini^  tickets  to  New  Vork  by 
rail  or  boat,  day  or  niglit  from  Troy  or  ATDany.  The 
general  olVices  for  all  railroads  or  steamboats  and 
bureau  of  information  is  in  the  Adelphi  Hotel  Build- 
inu^,  presided  over  by  my  ji^enial  friend,  Mr.  J.  S.  Grass 
(don't  make  any  pun  on  his  name  please).  Do  busi- 
ness with  him  and  the  transaction  will  remain  ever 
*V/V///"  in  your  memory.  I  advise  everyone  to  take 
the  Fall  River  Line  to  Boston.  If  you  have  tickets 
to  lioston  via  Albany,  all  rail,  take  the  Boston  & 
Albany  railroad,  which  is  first-class. 

NEW  YORK. 

To  those  visiting  New  York  for  the  first  time,  a 
few  words  of  advice  may  not  come  amiss.  I  there- 
fore suggest  arriving,  if  possible,  by  daylight.  Every 
one  in  the  city  minds  their  own  business — a  credit  in 
some  ways  ;  but  some  people  make  it  their  business 
to  fleece  the  stranger.  I  would  therefore  say,  keep 
your  own  counsel.  If  information  be  required  ask  a 
policeman.  Upon  arrival,  take  cars  or  cab,  if  pos- 
sible, to  destination.  If  you  desire  any  of  the  hotels 
represented  in  this  work,  you  will  always  find  one  or 
more  trusty  porters  at  trains  or  boats.  Avoid,  if 
possible,  the  hacks,  unless  you  make  a  fair,  square 
bargain  before  entering  the  vehicle  ;  your  trunk  or 
valise  may  accompany  you  with  carriage.  You  will 
always  find  upon  all  trains  or  boats,  courteous  agents 
of  the  different  baggage  and  express  companies,  who 
will  take  your  chec  k,  giving  a  receipt  for  the  same, 
which  relieves  you  and  saves  you  much  trouble  and 
annoyance,  as  their   delivery  system  is  prompt  and 


i 
1 

It 


\(y 


I'll  man 

ork  by 
The 

Us  and 
(liuild- 

Grass 
busi- 
M  ever 
|o  take 
tickets 
iton  cS: 


their  charges  a  sti[)iihited  price;  no  dcviaiicjn,  ex<  opt 
for  quantity. 

Sometliing  shouhl  be  said  here  rejj^arding  the  me- 
tropolis of  the  American  Continent,  biit  space  as  well 
as  time  prevents.  As  everylhine^  seen  here  is  in 
u^randeiir  superior  to  elsewliere,  the  impression  made 
upon  the  mind  while  here  will  he  evcrlastinjr.  I 
shall  not  try  to  befog  the  mind  with  as  meagre  a 
mention  as  I  am  capable  of  giving,  but  simply  refer 
to  the  principal  hotels.  The  first  one  at  hand  is  the 
Grand  Union  Hotel,  42d  street,  near  the  Grand  Central 
Depot.  Money-getting  being  the  chief  aim  of  life, 
its  proper  expenditure  should  not  prove  of  secondary 
importance.  That  travel  consumes  a  much  larger 
portion  of  our  finances  than  it  should,  is  evident  from 
the  fact  that  but  a  few  posscsj^  the  secret  (jf  retrench- 
ing in  that  direction.  Two  important  factors  of 
expense  in  travel  is  carriage  hire  and  transfer  of 
baggage;  and  that  the  traveling  public  is  more  gen- 
erally becoming  disposed  to  throw  off  their  former 
burden,  is  patent  from  the  army  of  guests  who  daily 
register  at  and  fill  the  600  rooms  (reduced  to  li.oo 
and  upwards  per  day),  at  the  Grand  Union  Hotel, 
opposite  the  Grand  Central  Depot,  New  York  City. 
Its  European  plan,  elegant  restaurants,  cafe,  lunch 
and  wine  rooms,  unexcelled  cuisine,  moderate  prices, 
courteous  treatement,  unchallenged  management, 
coupled  with  its  guests  incurring  no  expense  for 
carriage  hire  or  baggage  transfer,  with  elevated  rail- 
way, horse  cars  and  cabs  to  all  parts  of  the  city  pass- 
ing its  doors,  renders  the  Grand  Union  one  of  the 
most  desirable  of  homes  for  travelers  in  the  city,  and 
also  established  its  success  and  world-famed  popu- 
laritv. 


\ 


w\ 


i  i> 


170 


A  MAGNIFICENT  HOTEL. 

The  Murray  Hill  Hotel  is  situated  on  Park 
Avenue,  in  New  Vork  City,  but  one  block  from 
"he  Grand  Central  Depot.  A  more  convenient 
hotel  site  for  the  accommodation  of  the  newly 
arrived  tiaveler  who  would  at  the  earliest  moment 
find  a  home,  could  not  have  been  selected.  The 
house  stands  upon  the  highest  grade  in  New  York, 
and,  of  course,  occupies  the  healthiest  of  locations. 
It  is  of  great  size,  extending  two  hundred  feet  on 
the  Avenue,  more  than  two  hundred  feet  on  For- 
tieth street,  on  the  one  side,  and  on  Forty-first 
street  on  the  other.  It  ii  of  granite,  brown  stone 
and  brick,  fire-proof.  When  the  traveler  finds  a 
hotel  in  every  way  meeting  his  demand  for  his  com- 
fort, he  may  honestly  praise  it  while  he  disparages 
no  other.  For  New  York  contains  many  costly 
structures,  whose  proprietors  severally  believe  that 
their  guests  have  reason  to  be  satisfied.  Hotels 
are  not  advertised  as  second  class  by  those  that 
manage  them.  The  man  who  is  used  to  comfort 
at  home  is  perhaps  as  good  a  judge  as  any  one 
concerning  what  constitutes  a  satisfactory  hotel. 
But,  if  you  come  to  New  York  in  the  summer, 
I  recommend  you  to  this  house,  for  in  all  this  city 
there  can  be  no  healthier  place  in  the  warm  season. 
There  is  a  satisfaction  felt  at  once  upon  entrance 
to   this  beautiful    house.      The   vestibule   is    appar- 


171 

ently  just  large  enough  ;  the  handsome,  sliort  flight 
of  marble  steps  that  lead  to  the  office  seem  to 
be  just  long  enough,  the  great  hall  seems  just 
high  enough  to  satisfy  fully  the  idea  that  one  has 
of  proper  architectural  proportion.  The  floor  is  of 
marble,  but  not  the  hideoii.^  black  and  white  inset 
diagonal.  The  Sienna  is  set  against  the  slate  and 
is  a  carpet  pattern.  Oae  rather  expects  it  to  be 
soft  and  yielding  to  t!  i  foot,  it  looks  so  like  a 
Wilton.  The  ofBce  is  roomy;  not  three  or  four 
only,  but  forty  people  may  range  themselves  along 
its  handsome  counter  ready  to  sign,  in  regular 
order,  the  register.  The  I)  )ok  stand  is  no  con- 
tracted affair,  but  space  enough  is  given  to  allow 
display  of,  and  easy  access  to,  all  perit)dicals  and 
newspapers.  Everything  is  on  a  grand  scale,  but 
altogether  convenient.  The  great  fire-place,  which, 
with  its   huge    burning    logs,  in    winter    invites  the 


guest   to    share   its   com 


fort, 


is    an     attraction 


tliat 


merits  and  receives  enthusiastic  comment.  The 
electric  clock,  lighted  at  night,  the  chandeliers, 
which  at  the  proper  time,  because  of  the  light 
touch  of  a  knob  somewhere,  instantly  illuminate 
halls  and  parlors,  have  their  supply  of  electricity 
from  the  great  machines  in  the  basement,  and  the 
ice  that  is  used  for  any  purpose  thr(jugh  all  the 
house  is  made  in  huge  condensers  there.  All  the 
departments  seem  to  be  at  all  times  in  tfie  best 
working  order.     All  the  employes    seem   ever    will- 


% 
I 


rar' 


\  t 


172 

\n(r  to  do  their  best  to  please  the  guest.  There 
is  a  painstai<iiig  to  furnish  information  when  it  is 
asked  ;  if  one  clerk  does  not  know  he  directs  you 
to  one  who  does.  In  the  matter  of  meals,  they 
are  ready  at  all  hours.  At  the  time  of  registry,  the 
choice  is  made  between  the  American  or  European 
plan,  but  the  restaurants  above  and  below  stairs 
are  always  available.  It  would  be  easy  for  me  to 
compliment  the  management  and  the  efficient  office 
staff,  but  that  goes  for  the  saying.  As  space  is 
limited,  I  need  only  advise  you  to  give  the  Mur- 
ray Hill  Hotel  your  patronage  once  ;  they  will  see 
that  you  make  it  your  h(jme  thereafter. 

On  September  23d  llie  opening  (A  "  The  Plaza" 
takes  place,  which  is  to  be  New  Vc^rk's  grandest  effort 
in  Hotel  history.  It  will  occupy  a  frontage  faci 
Central  Park  on  the  north,  5th  Avenue  on  the  east, 
58th  St.  south  to  5(;lh  St.,  overlooking  all  drives. 
Within  half  a  block  of  the  6th  Avenue  Elevated, 
wiiere  all  trains  aie  made  up — it,  therefore,  will  be 
the  h(jme  of  the  refined  and  wealthy  of  New  York 
citizens,  as  the  interior  will  be  elaborately  furnished 
and  nKJSt  costly  decorated  of  any  hotel  in  America. 
One  word  mijre,  "t  is  under  trie  proprietorship  of  the 
Hammond  Brothers  of  the  Murray  Hill,  and  the  per- 
sonal supervision  of  F.  A.  Hammond. 

The  next  on  the  list  is  the  Orand  Central  Hotel, 
Broadway,  one  of  the  largest  in  tlie  city.  It  has 
lately  been  refitted,  re-decorated  and  re-furnished, 
and  under  the  present  proprietors,  Messrs.  Fay  man 
&    Sprague,    is    receiving    the    patronage    its    merits 


nof 


1 1'4 


W3 


deserve.  It  is  run  on  the  American  and  European 
plans,  so  that  anyone  can  be  pleased.  Its  graded 
prices,  its  location  and  appointments,  together  with 
the  friends  one  meets  here,  as  it  is  patrcjnized  by  more 
Southerners  than  any  hotel  in  New  York,  makes  it  a 
pleasant  place  for  tourist  or  traveler.  I  make  it  my 
home  when  in  the  citv,  and  feel  confident  you  will  be 
pleased  and  recommend  your  friends  there  after  a 
v'isit,  the  same  as  I  do  you.  There  was  some  talk  of 
changing  the  name  of  this  "landmark"  on  account 
of  the  thorough  change  in  the  hotel  and  manage- 
ment, although  I  confess  it  would  be  applicable  to 
the  situation,  as  everything  else  has  been  changed, 
it  would  be  better  for  its  patrons  t(j  advertise  the 
changes  than  the  new  name.  Tlierefore,  no  matter 
what  they  call  the  Grand  Central,  it  will  please  you 
as  a  hotel,  and  its  prices  are  not  extravagant. 

Wliile  in  New  York,  about  the  middle  of  June,  I 
thought  it  would  be  a  good  idea  if  some  one  of  the 
many  merchants  in  the  city  were  to  advertise  in  this 
little  volume;  knowing  that  it  is  not  thrown  away  but 
retained  as  a  souvenir,  it  will  be  a  perpetual  adver- 
tisement ;  I  called  on  Dr.  \V.  L.  P^leming,  "Tlie  Cancer 
King,"  of  206  West  5 2d  St.,  New  York  City,  who 
showed  me  hundreds  of  cancers,  wliich  he  removes 
without  the  aid  of  a  knife.  It  this  should  greet  the 
eye  of  an  afflicted  one,  I  feel  positive  after  calling 
and  being  treated  they  would  look  upon  me  as  a 
benefactor  as  long  as  they  live  for  putting  in  my 
book  this  gratuitous  notice.  I  also  visited  three 
of  the  leading  dry  goods  firms.  No.  i  stated  that 
I  was  too  late,  they  did  no  summer  business. 
No.  2  said  my  price  was  too  high,  but  as  I  spend 
all  the  money    I    procure   from  advertisers   on    the 


•t! 


:!i 


t 


ftf  I 


i 

It" 


'74 


priming  of.  books  and  gel  my  money  off  tlie  sale, 
his  point  was  not  well  taken.  No.  3  invited  me 
to  call  next  season,  which  I  hope  to  have  the  pleasure 
ol  doing.  I  would  like  to  say  here  that  1  published 
this  book  and  advised  the  advertisers  therein  to  take 
tlie  space,  feeling  il  would  bring  back  to  them  four- 
fold what  they  paid  me.  It  will,  therefore,  afft)rd  me 
pleasure  to  have  you  mention  to  any  of  the  adver- 
tisers that  il  was  through  my  solicitation  and  tiiis 
work  tiiat  you  favored  them  with  your  patronage; 
it  will  do  y(ju  no  harm  and  benefit  me. 


i 


i;  > 


BOSTON 

is  one  of  the  most  interesting  of  American  cities,  not 
only  on  account  of  its  thrilling  traditions  and  his- 
torical associations,  but  for  public  enterprise  and 
social  culture,  educational  and  literary  fa(;ilities.  Bos- 
ton is  peculiarly  Boston,  and  no  one  can  describe  its 
public,  private  or  natural  beauties  in  the  spice  allotted 
me  here.  The  principal  sights  are  Bunker  Hill 
Monument,  Faneuil  Hall,  the  Common,  Public  Gar- 
den, Old  and  New  Stale  Houses,  Public  J.ibrary, 
Old  and  New  South  Churches,  Natural  History 
buildings.  Agricultural  building.  Institute  of  Tech- 
nology, New  Trinity  Church,  M(junl  Auburn,  Har- 
vard University  building.  Music  Hall,  the  Great 
Organ,    City    Hall,   Hos[)itals    and    other    sights    too 


rimountain.   oi 


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numerous  to  mention  here. 
Mountains,  as  Boston  was  originally  called,  '  a 
peninsula  of  about  700  acres,  almost  surroundevl  tsy 
the  sea.  Its  climate  in  the  liottest  })art  of  seasons  is 
deliciously  cool,  bracing  and  invigorating,  and  it  is 
undoubtedlv  one  of  the  healthiest  cities  in  the  world. 


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Its  harbor,  one  of  the  best  on  the  coast,  is  about 
twenty  miles  long  by  eight  wide.  Its  many  islands 
and  coasts  are  lined  with  tho\isands  of  dclightfiil 
summer  res(jrts,  reached  by  nuuiorons  railroads  and 
steamboats  every  hour  of  the  day,  fvirniing  a  |)an- 
orama  of  busy  life  and  pleasure  to  be  seen  nowhere 
else.  Its  drives  inland  are  none  the  less  interesting 
and  picturesque,  whether  we  visit  the  classic  sliades 
of  old  Harvard,  the  romant'c  walks  at  Wcllesley,  or 
the  hundred  delightful  suburban  villages,  whose 
well-kept  streets,  bright  lawns  and  elegant  gardens 
simply  reflect  the  elegance  and  taste  within  the 
homes  of  those  who  made  Boston  wljal  ii  is.  T!ie 
excellent  horse-car  service  of  B(jston  is  one  of  the 
best  institutions.  Nowliere  else  in  the  country  is 
this  im{)ortant  convenience  to  visitors  so  complete  as 
here.  The  broad,  handsome,  open  cars  reach  all 
points  within  ten  milesof  theCity  Mall,  and  give  visit- 
ors a  most  uelightful  opportunity  to  see  the  attrac- 
tions at  the  least  possible  charge. 

Boston,  the  Capital  of  Massachusetts,  embraces 
B(jston  proper,  East  Boston,  South  Boston,  Roxbury, 
West  Roxbury,  Brighton,  Charlcstown  and  Dor- 
chester. Boston  proper,  or  old  Boston,  was  very 
uneven  in  surface,  and  originally  presenting  three 
hills,  Bacon,  Copp's,  the  Fort,  the  former  of  which 
is  about  130  feet  above  the  sea.  The  Indian  name  of 
this  peninsula  was  Shawmut,  meaning  "Sweet  waters." 
A  narrow  strip  of  land  called  the  *'  Neck  "  joined  the 
peninsula  to  the  main  land;  this  neck  was  formerly 
overflowed  by  the  tide,  but  has  been  filled  in  and 
widened,  and  is  now  thickly  built  upon.  East  Boston 
occupies  the  west  portion  of  Noodle's  or  Maverick's 
Island.     Here  is  the  deepest  water  of  the  harbor,  and 


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176 

here  tlie  ocean  steamers  chiclly  lie.  The  wharf  now 
used  by  the  Cunard  steamers  is  1,000  feet  long. 
South  Hoston  extends  about  two  miles  along  the 
south  side  of  the  harbor,  an  arm  of  which  separates  it 
from  lioston  proper. 

The  tirst  white  inhabitant  of  Hoston  was  the  Rev. 
John  IJIackstonc,  supposed  to  have  been  an  Episcopal 
Clergyman,  and  to  have  arrived  in  1623.  Here  he 
lived  until  1630,  when  John  Winthrop,  (afterward 
the  first  Governor  of  Massachusetts)  came  across  the 
river  from  Charlestown,  wliere  he  had  dwelt  with 
some  fellow  immigrants  for  a  short  time.  About 
1635  Mr.  lilackstone  sold  his  claim  to  the  now  popu- 
lous peninsula  for  ^30,  and  removed  to  Rhode 
Tsland.  The  first  church  was  built  in  1632  ;  the  first 
wharf  in  1673.  Four  years  later  a  postmaster  was 
appointed,  and  in  1704  (April  24th),  the  first  news- 
paper, called  the  ]>oston  News  Letter^  was  published. 
The  "lioston  Massacre"  happened  March  5,  1770, 
when  three  persons  were  killed  and  five  wounded  by 
the  fire  of  the  soldiers.  In  1773  tea  was  destroyed  in 
the  harbor,  and  Boston  bore  a  conspicuous  part  in 
the  opening  scenes  of  the  Revoluti(jn.  The  city  was 
incorporated  in  1822,  wuh  a  population  of  45,000, 
which  had  increased  to  136,881  in  1850,  to  177,850  in 
i860,  and  250,526  in  1870.  I^y  the  recent  annexation 
of  the  suburbs  of  I^righton,  Charlestown,  West  Rox- 
bury,  etc.,  the  population  has  been  increased  to 
341,919  (in  February,  1876).  Population  362,876  in 
1880.  On  the  9th  of  November,  1872,  one  of  the 
most  terrible  conllagrations  ever  known  in  the 
United  States  swept  away  the  principal  business  por- 
tion of  Boston.  The  fire  broke  out  on  Saturday 
evening,  and  continued  until   noon  on  the  following 


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djiy,  when  it  was  brought  under  control,  hut  again 
broke  forth  in  consequence  of  an  explosion  of  gas, 
about  midnight,  and  raged  until  7  o'clock  Monday- 
morning.  The  district  burnt  over  extended  from 
Summer  and  Bedford  street  on  the  south,  to  near 
State  street  on  the  north,  and  from  Washington 
street  east  to  the  harbor.  About  Xoo  of  the  finest 
buildings  in  the  city  were  destroyed,  causing  a  hjss 
of  l?8o,ooo,ooo. 

OBJECTS  OF  ANTIQUARIAN  INTEREST. 

Among  "buildings  with  a  history,"  the  mc^st  inter- 
esting in  the  United  States,  next  to  Independence 
Hall  in  Philadelphia,  is  Faneuil  Hall.  The  famous 
edifice,  the  "cradle  of  liberty,"  is  in  Dock  Scjuare, 
which  also  has  an  tiistorical  fame,  because  of  the 
meetings  of  the  Revolutionary  patriots  that  were 
held  there.  I'he  building  was  erected  in  1742,  by 
Peter  Faneuil,  a  Huguenot  merchant,  and  bv  him 
presented  to  the  town.  Its  original  dimensions  were 
100  by  40  feet.  Destroyed  by  fire  in  1761,  it  was 
rebuilt  in  1763,  and  enlarged  to  its  present  dimensions 
in  1805.  A  full  length  portrait  of  the  founder, 
together  with  the  pictures  of  Washington,  by  Stuart, 
of  Webster,  by  Healy,  of  Samuel  Adams,  by  Copely, 
and  portraits  of  John  (juincy  Adams,  Edward 
Everett,  Abraham  Lincoln,  and  Governor  Andrew 
adorn  the  walls.  The  basement  of  the  hall  is  a 
market.  The  old  Slate  House,  in  Washington  street, 
at  the  head  of  State  street,  was  erected  in  1748,  and 
was  for  half  a  century  the  seat  of  the  "Great  and 
General  Court  of  Massachusetts,"  being  the  building 
of  which   such  frequent  mention  is  made  in  revolu- 


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tionary  annals.  Il  has  long  been  given  up  to  business 
purposes,  the  interior  having  been  completely  re- 
modeled, and  the  edifice  surmounted  by  a  roof  which 
has  wholly  destroyed  the  quaint  effect  of  the  original 
architecture.  Christ  Church  (Episcopal),  in  Salem 
street,  near  Copp's  Hill,  is  the  oldest  church  in  the 
city,  having  been  erected  in  1722.  It  has  a  lofty 
steeple,  and  in  the  tower  is  a  fine  chime  of  bells. 
The  Old  South  Church,  corner  of  Washington  and 
Milk  streets,  is  an  object  of  much  interest.  It  is  of 
brick,  and  was  built  in  1729,  on  the  site  where  the 
first  edifice  of  the  society  had  stood  since  1669.  The 
church  was  used  as  a  place  of  meeting  by  the  heroes 
of  '76,  and  during  the  British  occupation  of  the  city 
was  used  as  a  place  for  cavalry-drill.  It  barely 
escapid  the  flames  in  the  great  fire.  The  OH  South 
Society  having  erected  a  new  place  of  worship  on 
Boylston  street,  the  old  building  was  offered  for  sale, 
when  a  patriotic  effort  among  the  people  originated 
a  subscription  for  the  purpose  of  raising  funds  to 
secure  its  preservation.  King's  Chapel  (Unitarian), 
corner  Tremont  and  School  streets,  was  founded  in 
1686,  and  the  present  building,  a  plain  granite  struct- 
ure, erected  in  1750-54.  Adjoining  the  church  is  the 
first  burying-ground  establ  shed  in  Boston.  In  it  are 
buried  Isaac  Johnson,  ''the  Father  of  Boston," 
Governor  Winthrop,  Jolin  Cotton  and  other  distin- 
guished men.  On  the  corner  of  Washington  and 
School  streets  is  the  Old  Corner  Book  Store,  a  build- 
ing dating  from  17 12.  The  Old  North  Burying- 
ground,  on  the  brow  of  Copp's  Hill,  was  the  second 
established  in  the  city,  and  is  still  sacredly  preserved. 
Here  lie  three  fathers  of  the  Puritan  Church,  Drs. 
Increase,  Cotton  and  Samuel  Mather. 


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THE  OLD  CEMETERY  IN  THE  COMMON. 

In  that  corner  of  the  Common  bounded  by  Tremont 
and  Boylston  streets,  and  lying  directly  between  the 
Masonic  Temple  and  the  Public  Library,  is  an  old 
burying-ground,  shut  off  from  the  Common  and  the 
streets  by  an  iron  fence.  It  was  formerly  known  as 
the  South,  and  later  as  the  Central  Burying  ground. 
It  was  opened  in  1756,  but  the  oldest  stone  is  dated 
1 761.  The  best  known  name  upon  any  of  the  ancient 
stones  is  that  of  Monsieur  Julien,  the  most  noted 
restaiiranteur  of  the  city  a  century  past,  and  the  in- 
ventor of  the  famous  soup  that  still  bears  his  name. 
This  cemetery  is  the  le£.st  interesting  of  the  old 
burying  places  of  Boston,  and  is  consequently  seldom 
noticed  by  the  stranger. 

There  are,  according  to  the  directory,  nearly  two 
hundred  hotels  in  the  city.  With  that  fact  in  view,  I 
shall  mention,  first,  the  American  House  and  the 
United  States.  In  suggesting  to  intending  visitors 
to  Boston  the  name  of  the  "  Old  United  States  Hotel  '^ 
the  proprietor  feels  fustified  in  recommending  the 
house  for  just  what  it  is,  no  more  no  less.  I  am  at 
home  when  in  the  United  States  Hotel ;  it  pleases  me^ 
and  I  am  positive  it  will  please  you. 

The  United  States  Hotel  is  one  of  the  oldest  and 
best  of  the  well-established  hotels  of  Boston.  Its 
fame  is  wide-spread.  Its  seal  dates  back  to  1826,  and 
from  that  early  date  to  the  present  it  has  been  main- 
tained up  to  the  best  standard,  but  never  better  than 
now.  It  is  situated  directly  opposite  the  Boston  & 
Albany,  within  two  blocks  of  the  Old  Colony,  and 
only  a  short  distance  from  the'  New   York   &  New 


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England,  and  Providence  Railroad  stations,  and  is 
the  nearest  hotel  to  the  retail  portions  of  the  city  and 
the  great  commercial  centers. 

The  "United  States"  is  occupied  largely  in  winter 
by  families  owning  their  own  private  residences  in 
the  adjoining  towns,  who  come  into  the  city  and 
make  their  residence  at  this  famous  old  house  for 
the  winter  months.  During  the  summer  season, 
therefore,  their  great  family  rooms  are  available  for 
tourists,  families  and  pleasure  parties,  giving  accom- 
modations that  could  not  otherwise  be  afforded,  and 
so  allow  guests  the  most  extensive  variety  of  rooms 
at  the  lowest  possible  charges.  During  the  summer 
months  the  rates  are  reduced  to  $2.50,  $3.00,  and  $3. 50 
per  day,  according  to  accommodations,  with  board  ; 
rooms  without  board,  $r.ooand  upwards,  thus  giving 
visitors  an  opportunity  of  making  this  hotel  their 
permanent  headquarters,  from  which  to  make  daily 
excursions  to  the  thousand  places  of  historical  interest 
with  vv'hich  the  city  and  suburbs  abound,  and  to 
the  great  manufacturing  cities  which  surround  it; 
while  the  fifteen  hundred  summer  resorts  and  board- 
ing houses  dov.  n  the  harbor  and  along  the  coast  are 
available  every  fifteen  minutes  by  boat  or  rail.  Thus 
the  "United  States"  will  be  found  not  only  a  most 
accessible  and  convenient  hotel  on  arriving  at  Bos- 
ton, but  will  be  found  equally  comfortable  and  eco- 
nomical for  permanent  as  well  as  transient  guests, 
while  the  facilities  for  reaching  all  the  suburban 
localities  and  various  sea-shore  resorts  are  unequaled 
by  any  hotel  ki  Boston. 

The  American  House,  Boston,  is  the  nearest  first- 
class  h^tel^jto  the  northern  and  eastern  railroad 
depots,  and  can  without  hesitation  be  recommended 


nd  is 
and 


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as  one  of  the  best  in  the  city.  It  has  broad,  well- 
lighted  corridors,  spacious  public  rooms  and  all 
modern  improvements  for  the  convenience  of  guests, 
and  has  long  been  noted  for  the  cleanliness  and 
comfort  of  its  rooms,  the  invariable  excellence  of  its 
table  and  that  air  of  home-like  comfort  which  is  so 
refreshing  to  the  tired  traveler.  It  has  a  large  num- 
ber of  suites  particularly  desirable  for  families  and 
large  parties,  and  contains  no  dark  rooms  in  which 
to  store  away  an  unsuspecting  midnight  guest.  It  is 
perfectly  ventilated,  has  six  stairways  from  top  to 
bottom,  and  very  recently  renovated  and  improved  ; 
furnishes  superior  accommodations  at  more  moderate 
rates  than  most  first  class  hotels.  It  is  regularly 
kept  on  the  American  plan,  charging  ^3  00  and  $3.50 
per  day,  according  to  size  and  location  of  rooms,  and 
is  deservedly  popular  with  the  best  class  of  pleasure 
and  commercial  travelers  ;  but  rooms  are  let  with  or 
without  meals,  at  the  option  of  guests. 

My  dear  friend,  John  B.  Schoffel,  will,  I  am  glad 
to  know,  manage  this  year  his  summer  home,  "  Man- 
chester by  the  Sea,"  the  finest  resort  on  the  coast.  If 
you  have  time  for  only  a  call,  take  the  Boston  & 
Maia  R.  R.,  Gloucester  branch  ;  only  35  miles  from 
Boston.  It  is  the  summer  home  of  Agnes  Booth, 
John  Gilbert,  Joseph  Proctor,  Mrs.  Bowers,  Franklin 
Haven,  Pres.  Merchants  Bank,  and  a  host  of  others. 
Beautiful  harbor  and  beach,  bathing  nine  months  in 
the  year,  drives  unsurpassed  in  America  ;  therefore  if 
you  are  looking  for  the  best  in  the  land  visit  Man- 
chester by  the  Sea  and  be  happy. 

One  of  the  best  traveling  companion,  on  a  pleasure 
trip  is  a  reliable  Railway  Guide,  and  vtq  advise  i;he 
tourist  to  get  the  best,  as  a  cheap  guide  '  li^'  cheap 
watch — never  on  time. 


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As  we  hold  that  this  little  volume  is  not  thrown 
away,  but  taken  home  for  future  reference,  a  little 
advice  of  how  to  start  upon  a  trip,  etc,  would  not 
come  amiss.     We  say 

ist,  Select  your  route.  2d,  Buy  your  tickets  and 
secure  your  parlor  car  seats.  3d,  Show  your  tickets 
to  the  baggage  master  and  have  your  baggage 
checked.  4th,  Go  to  the  nev/s  stand  and  ask  for  The 
"  Phat  Boy's"  16  years  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  or  the 
Pathfinder's  Railway  Guide,  as  it  is  the  oldest  railway 
guide  published,  and  the  July  number  will  contain 
the  best  railroad  map  ever  published.  It  is  the  only 
recognized  mouthpiece  of  the  Passenger  Agents' 
Association ;  one  can  be  assured  of  its  reliability. 
The  Phat  Boy  requests  his  friends  to  send  to  them 
next  spring  fora  copy  of  their  summer  tours  to  select 
your  vacation  trip.  Address,  Pathfinder,  Boston,  Mass. 
5th,  Don't  bother  the  conductor  by  questions,  as  he 
has  all  he  can  do  to  attend  to  his  train,  and  the  Path- 
finder's official  tables  and  valuable  maps  tell  the 
whole  story. 

I  have  endeavored  to  describe  faithfully  and  cor- 
rectly the  route  over  which  you  have  passed,  dear 
reader.  There  are,  doubtless,  some  whose  knowledge 
of  particular  points  is  greater  than  my  own  ;  to  those 
I  say  most  cheerfully,  note  them  down,  and  forward 
to  me,  21  Chestnut  Park,  Rochester,  N.  Y.,  and 
I  assure  you,  they  shall  have  a  position  in  the  next 
edition  of  this  work,  as  my  object  and  aim  is  to  make 
this  a  perfect  guide  for  any  person  desirous  of  mak- 
ing this,  the  finest  trip  on  the  continent. 

While  it  has  never  been  published,  to  my  know- 
ledge, it  is  a  cold  fact  that  Grover  Cleveland 
paralyzed  Dan  Manning  with  ingratitude,  and  last  June 


I 

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183 

I  received   a  dose  of  that  commodity  from  the   Gen- 
eral Passenger  Agent  of  the  Boston  &  Lowell  R.R.  that 
would  have  paralyzed  Cleveland.     Therefore  I  say  to 
my  friends,  whenever  you  can  avoid  patronizing  that 
railroad  without    injury  to  the  Central  Vermont,  do  so, 
and  you  will  do  me  the  greatest  favor  of  a  life  time. 
After  returning  home  and  resuming  the  cares  and 
position  which  you  left  behind  for  this  trip,  may  you 
be  filled  with  animation,  life  and  health  acquired  by 
your  excursion  trip  down  the  St.  Lawrence,  etc.,  and 
the  pleasant  memories  of  scenes  witnessed,  wonders 
visited,  as  well  as  the  beauties  of  nature  revealed,  yo!i 
will  have  double  the  vigor  to    prosecute  the  duties 
devolving  upon  you,  with  only  spare  time  on  hand  to 
speak  to  your  acquaintances  and  friends,  recommend- 
ing them   to  make  the   same  trip,   not  forgetting  to 
mention   The    "Phat    Boy's"     16   years   on   the  St. 
Lawrence  River  as  a  guide  for  hotel  and  all  points  of 
interest  connected  with  the  trip.     I  will  now  lift  my 
hat  to  the  tourist  and  others  who  have  made  the  trip, 
and  bid  them  a  temporary  farewell.     Hoping  to  see, 
next  vacation,  yourself  and  friends,  I  only  say 


m/ 


ADIEU. 


=iji 


